Just wondering which you guys prefer.
Creating several different exposures from one RAW file
or
Firing off multiple jpegs in camera.
| POLL: "Which do you prefer?" |
 Pulling several exposures from 1 RAW | 24 41.4% |
| Shooting multiple jpegs in camera | 34 58.6% |
Supra_t Senior Member  515 posts Joined Jan 2010 Location: NSW, Australia More info | Feb 13, 2010 20:04 | #1 |
GaryMcDuffie Goldmember  3,022 posts Likes: 1 Joined Oct 2008 Location: Scottsbluff, NE USA More info | Feb 13, 2010 20:07 | #2 Prefer? You can't make a real HDR from only one shot. Gary
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Feb 13, 2010 20:56 | #3 Gary McDuffie wrote in post #9604704  Prefer? You can't make a real HDR from only one shot. Ok so you obviously prefer multiple shots in camera. What if not everything in the frame will stay still long enough to fire off 3,5 or 7 shots or as many as you use. James Cause Photography
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Three RAW shots! That stinkin' JPEG conversion always destroys the fine details. I like to take one RAW shot and make a -2, and +2 exposure change with DPP then layer them in CS4. 5DIICAN17-40CAN50CAN85CAN100CAN135CAN70-200
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Kevin Cream of the Crop 5,920 posts Likes: 2 Joined Sep 2005 More info | Feb 13, 2010 21:32 | #5 5 Shots raw, 1 stop steps, always. I never shoot jpg, 8-bit files, yuk
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windpig Chopped liver  More info | Feb 13, 2010 21:58 | #6 Dead heat at this point. That's funny. Gotta have multi exposures. Would you like to buy a vowel?
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terrencemichael Hatchling 2 posts Joined Feb 2010 More info | Feb 14, 2010 01:27 | #7 Hi new man on the scene, Russel Brown gives an excellent example of one photo in RAW for an hdr where there is a lot of movement , for movement this seems to be the best way, however I have done beach and where motor way is involved eg a city in multiple shots and not to bad, my problem is now I want to do night shots in hdr any advice on this one thanks , terrencemichael
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dugcross Senior Member  879 posts Likes: 3 Joined Jan 2008 Location: St. Petersburg, Florida More info | Neither! Got to use at least 3 RAW exposures for HDR. Using 1 shot and trying to make it HDR is NOT HDR it's faux hdr. You cannot create HDR out of one photo!!! You cannot get the details out of one photo to make a HDR. You HAVE to have the over exposed shots and the underexposed shots to do this. If you're using one shot, you don't have a HDR. Doug Cross
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dugcross Senior Member 879 posts Likes: 3 Joined Jan 2008 Location: St. Petersburg, Florida More info | Feb 14, 2010 11:07 | #10 Supra_t wrote in post #9607313 Ok so would I import the RAWs straight into photomatix or do you proccess them into a TIFF or something first? Myself I take the RAW files straight into Photomatix before I do any processing. Photomatix actually request you to use RAW files because of the information enclosed. Doug Cross
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007 Senior Member  596 posts Joined Apr 2009 Location: South Jersey More info | Feb 14, 2010 11:16 | #11 I prefer to use multiple raw images with a wide range of AEB.. Don't use JPG's as the information is lost in the compression.. I only use single shots when the action is too much for multiple shots to capture without ghosting. Body: Canon 7d - gripped | Canon Xsi - gripped |
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JFusion Senior Member  851 posts Joined Jan 2006 Location: Dayton, Ohio More info | Feb 14, 2010 11:24 | #12 Neither here either. Mulitple RAW files... Jeremi
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GaryMcDuffie Goldmember 3,022 posts Likes: 1 Joined Oct 2008 Location: Scottsbluff, NE USA More info | Feb 14, 2010 12:13 | #13 Doug pretty much said it all. Gary
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kirkt Cream of the Crop More info | Feb 14, 2010 16:53 | #14 dugcross wrote in post #9607369 Myself I take the RAW files straight into Photomatix before I do any processing. Photomatix actually request you to use RAW files because of the information enclosed. Actually ... from HDRSoft's (Photomatix's) website: Do I need to process bracketed RAW files to TIFF format first? Yes, it is recommended to first process your bracketed RAW files in your favorite RAW converter, and then combine the converted TIFF or JPEG files in Photomatix. This is particularly recommended with Exposure Fusion, given that Exposure Fusion is intended for images that have been fully processed, either in-camera or through a RAW converter. When generating an HDR image, having Photomatix directly process the RAW files is theoretically better for the accuracy of the 32-bit HDR image produced -- the data in RAW files represent the linear luminance values captured by the camera sensors, which is exactly what is needed for an HDR image. Also, the calculation of HDR values can rely on the exposure information retrieved from EXIF data when RAW files are used. However, the RAW conversion of Photomatix Pro and Photomatix Light is not as good as the RAW conversion done in Photoshop, Lightroom, Aperture, DxO or other applications specialized in RAW conversion. This is why you should process your bracketed RAW files in an application that is specialized in the RAW conversion task. Then, use the converted output as source images for Photomatix Pro or Photomatix Light. If you have Lightroom and Photomatix Pro, it is easy to integrate both processes with the Lightroom Export Plug-In to Photomatix Pro. When using a RAW converter with files intended for HDR merging, you should disable sharpening and uncheck all tonal and exposure-related automatic settings (especially the Exposure adjustment setting but also adjustments for contrast, shadow, etc.) which should be set to zero. This does not apply to files intended for Exposure Fusion, though. For Exposure Fusion, it is better to process your RAW files using the auto-settings of the RAW converter. As a side note: Though shooting in RAW is definitely better than shooting in jpeg for the dynamic range, this is not really relevant anymore when several exposures are used -- if your bracketed shots properly cover the scene's dynamic range, jpegs will work as well as RAWs for creating an HDR image. Link: http://www.hdrsoft.com …otomatix.html#process_raw How did you take the Grand Canal picture on your example page while the boats were moving? Taking differently exposed shots for HDR only works well with stills. For a scene with motion, the resulting image will show "ghosting" artifacts. Most cameras have an automatic bracketing exposure function which lets them take three or more shots successively while automatically changing the exposure. This is still not fast enough in most cases of moving scenes, but in the case of the Grand Canal photo shown on our example page it was, as the boats' movements are almost unnoticeable in the final tone mapped image. There were two reasons for that: 1. The boats were moving slowly. 2. The three shots were taken with a camera offering a high burst rate (the 1D MKII which can take up to 8.5 frames per second). Photomatix Pro includes an option that reduces ghosting artifacts for moving objects. When this option does not work well with your images, you can also try the ghost repair technique detailed in this tutorial (note that when the tutorial mentions HDR image, it refers to the tone mapped image in fact). Link: http://www.hdrsoft.com …_photomatix.html#ghosting Kirk
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Feb 14, 2010 21:13 | #15 dugcross wrote in post #9607369 Myself I take the RAW files straight into Photomatix before I do any processing. Photomatix actually request you to use RAW files because of the information enclosed. I use photoshop CS4. When I used photomatix I could never get the same quality with real prints. They look good on a display though. 5DIICAN17-40CAN50CAN85CAN100CAN135CAN70-200
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 | x 1600 |
| y 1600 |
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