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Thread started 14 Feb 2010 (Sunday) 18:53
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Advice with shooting through glass

 
big_apple_ken
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Feb 14, 2010 18:53 |  #1

I'm actually planning to head to an observatory to take some wide angle city shots. The main issue I envision is the reflection/glare since the observatory is surrounded by a thin glass wall (for safety reasons). I'm flexible with the time I plan to head up (sunrise, sunset or night time shot). What are some of the ways I can avoid/minimize the reflection/glare issue from shooting through glass?


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jra
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Feb 14, 2010 18:56 |  #2

On trick I've found to work well is to get your lens as close to the glass as possible. Also, look for the glare and reflections and avoid 'em (yeah I know, pretty common sense :) )




  
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neilwood32
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Feb 14, 2010 19:04 |  #3

As jra suggest get as close as possible to the glass.

Another thing would be a Circular polariser.


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big_apple_ken
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Feb 14, 2010 19:10 |  #4

jra wrote in post #9609608 (external link)
On trick I've found to work well is to get your lens as close to the glass as possible. Also, look for the glare and reflections and avoid 'em (yeah I know, pretty common sense :) )

That's what I was thinking as well. Will putting a hood over my lens then pushing the hood right up to the glass be the 'best' option?


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joemusic321
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Feb 14, 2010 20:38 |  #5

big_apple_ken wrote in post #9609669 (external link)
That's what I was thinking as well. Will putting a hood over my lens then pushing the hood right up to the glass be the 'best' option?

It would be a good choice.


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drRex
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Feb 14, 2010 21:02 |  #6

Use a rubber hood/shade and push that up to the glass...at least that's what I use to shoot through glass at aquariums. Of course there are other distortion things happening when shooting through glass and water at aquariums, but I try to stay as parallel to the plane of the glass as possible.


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birdfromboat
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Feb 14, 2010 21:34 |  #7

I remember an article in a photomag back in the late eighties where a guy was hacking toilet plungers with an exacto knife so they fit on his lens. If memory serves, he was using it on trains and airplanes. It would have to work, a black rubber hood would cut the glare from any light source on the camera side of the glass, and provide a stable platform.
I wonder if you could get the fit so close to the lens diameter that waterproof L glass would stay stuck to the window while you fiddled with a cell phone or ordered lunch?


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drRex
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Feb 14, 2010 22:53 as a reply to  @ birdfromboat's post |  #8

Here's something...


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The caption for this says:

"The 36-82 Zoomar is hard to find, but the immense collapsible rubber lens shade and mounting adapter is a much more difficult quest. The diameter of the shade is a mere 6 1/8" or 155mm. Complete with hood, Focar and plunger release, the Exakta Mt 36-82/2.8 Zoomar weighs in at a petite 2lbs 6oz. The lens by itself is 1 3/4 lbs. with a front element diameter of 3 1/8 inches."

This Kilfitt 36–82mm/2.8 Voigtländer Zoomar was apparently the first true varifocal 35mm lens in regular production for still photography. It was introduced in 1959, so this plunger idea goes back pretty far.

There are of course rubber lens shades you can buy for any size filter thread from places like B&H. But someone on a budget was also able to make a lens hood from a car oil funnel for this Canon video camera, here's what he did: http://www.hv20.com/sh​owthread.php?t=4379 (external link)

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Jon ­ Foster
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Feb 14, 2010 23:43 |  #9

We use black velvet material draped over the lens and held up to the glass. It cuts out any light that can reflect inside the room and allows you to move around without fear of a reflection on the glass.

Jon.


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That_Fox
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Feb 14, 2010 23:55 |  #10

I know that this is also pretty much common sense, but wear dark clothing. This will also reduce the amount of reflection you'll face.


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Redr8
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Feb 15, 2010 04:31 as a reply to  @ That_Fox's post |  #11

Microfibre cloth and some glass cleaner too !!!


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Advice with shooting through glass
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