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Thread started 21 Feb 2010 (Sunday) 12:02
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My Wedding Shot ~The Ryan Brenzer Method

 
robojack
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Feb 22, 2010 06:39 |  #31

Pham, that is an AWESOME technique. I seriously will try this out sometime! Thank you for sharing and explaining this very creative technique.


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georgebowman
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Feb 22, 2010 08:25 |  #32

Phamster, Thank you so much for sharing your techniques. Terrific work as usual!


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HorizonPhoto
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Feb 22, 2010 11:20 |  #33

It is not exactly how he does it...Here is a link explaining how an why it is done.
http://blog.buiphotogr​aphy.com …xplained-with-directions/ (external link)
I have done it and it is pretty cool.
here is another link: http://www.facebook.co​m …/video.php?v=57​5352237342 (external link) another here of him using it on locationhttp://www.flickr.com …s/carpeicthus/3​117948025/ (external link)
. Bottom line, lets say you are using an 85 1.4 and want ultra shallow DOF of say a head shot from 4 feet but want a full body shot. Wont happen. When you move back w/ the 85 you can get the full body shot but you will not keep the shallow DOF you have when shooting from say 3 feet w/ the same lens.
He uses "exposure lock" and has camera set to "shoot with out being in focus".
Then from a distance that would normally only get you a head or 3/4 shot. He fires away your subjects must stay very still because you are taking multiple shots of them and the surroundings. The result full body wide angle with ultra shallow DOF.




  
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paytonphoto
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Feb 22, 2010 12:02 |  #34

I dont get how it helps reduce the noise?


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sacral
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Feb 22, 2010 12:26 |  #35

Awesome bro. Will try this with my next opportunity...unfortun​ately, will have to be with a 50/1.4.


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Quick ­ Tony
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Feb 22, 2010 12:36 |  #36

paytonphoto wrote in post #9658565 (external link)
I dont get how it helps reduce the noise?

If you are speaking on the pixel level, noise will not be reduce. However, since you are combining multiple photos into one, when you print, say, at 16x20, each photo used to create the image would only take up the equivalent of, for example, a 4x6. Intuitively, you know that when viewing a picture smaller, the noise is less pronounced. Someone else may chime in, but I hope this makes sense.


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rohicks
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Feb 22, 2010 12:36 as a reply to  @ sacral's post |  #37

I feel like my post was nothing, but talking to a cyber wall.

Why doesn't this place have a *smackhead* emoticon.


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Derrick_SA
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Feb 22, 2010 15:09 |  #38

thanks for the links, now I understand what and why, appriciate it.

And just to be clear, I really think those pics are awesome phamster.

- Derrick

HorizonPhoto wrote in post #9658330 (external link)
It is not exactly how he does it...Here is a link explaining how an why it is done.
http://blog.buiphotogr​aphy.com …xplained-with-directions/ (external link)
I have done it and it is pretty cool.
here is another link: http://www.facebook.co​m …/video.php?v=57​5352237342 (external link) another here of him using it on locationhttp://www.flickr.com …s/carpeicthus/3​117948025/ (external link)


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grewbek
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Feb 22, 2010 16:59 |  #39

Now THAT is cool. Great shot Pham and thanks for clueing us/me into Brenizer's method!


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navydoc
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Feb 22, 2010 17:16 as a reply to  @ grewbek's post |  #40

Maybe it's just me but in the first picture, the bride and groom appear to be miniatures when compared to the yellow lines in the street and the vehicle to the right.

The perspective seems OK in the second image.

Was it accidental that when the traffic light was red, no kiss...but in the next shot the light is green and the smooch is a go? :D


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Tawcan
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Feb 22, 2010 17:57 |  #41

Really cool technique, thank for sharing Pham. Any reason why you want to do manual focus on the rest of the shots? If you just leave the focus on the same point as your subject it should be ok no?


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Tony.Ibarra
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Feb 22, 2010 19:08 |  #42

Tawcan wrote in post #9660895 (external link)
Really cool technique, thank for sharing Pham. Any reason why you want to do manual focus on the rest of the shots? If you just leave the focus on the same point as your subject it should be ok no?

I think the answer to this one is that once you've achieved focus on your subject, the couple in this case, you want to maintain a consistent perspective. If you focus at different distances (your focus dial on the lens gives a distance to the subject), you will distort the focus of each individual shot, and as such, bokeh and perspective will be thrown off in certain parts of the image. For example, one half of a car on the side of the road may be tack sharp, while another half of the same car could be blurred.

The safest bet to prevent this would be to lock focus on the couple, leave the lens at that distance, and begin to snap around the scene, to ensure proper perspective on all elements within the frame. With auto-focus on, it would constantly change distances from shot to shot.


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Point-n-shoot-n
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Feb 22, 2010 21:38 |  #43

Tony.Ibarra wrote in post #9661315 (external link)
I think the answer to this one is that once you've achieved focus on your subject, the couple in this case, you want to maintain a consistent perspective. If you focus at different distances (your focus dial on the lens gives a distance to the subject), you will distort the focus of each individual shot, and as such, bokeh and perspective will be thrown off in certain parts of the image. For example, one half of a car on the side of the road may be tack sharp, while another half of the same car could be blurred.

The safest bet to prevent this would be to lock focus on the couple, leave the lens at that distance, and begin to snap around the scene, to ensure proper perspective on all elements within the frame. With auto-focus on, it would constantly change distances from shot to shot.

That makes perfrect sense to me.


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FMX
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Feb 23, 2010 00:51 |  #44

Makes sense and all... I just dont' think the effect is really worth it unless you need a really large image :)

Thanks for sharing!




  
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Tawcan
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Feb 23, 2010 17:44 |  #45

Tony.Ibarra wrote in post #9661315 (external link)
I think the answer to this one is that once you've achieved focus on your subject, the couple in this case, you want to maintain a consistent perspective. If you focus at different distances (your focus dial on the lens gives a distance to the subject), you will distort the focus of each individual shot, and as such, bokeh and perspective will be thrown off in certain parts of the image. For example, one half of a car on the side of the road may be tack sharp, while another half of the same car could be blurred.

The safest bet to prevent this would be to lock focus on the couple, leave the lens at that distance, and begin to snap around the scene, to ensure proper perspective on all elements within the frame. With auto-focus on, it would constantly change distances from shot to shot.

That's what I thought as well, I guess you could do the same if you have the focus locked using the * button so when you press shutter the focal plane doesn't change.


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My Wedding Shot ~The Ryan Brenzer Method
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