Pham, that is an AWESOME technique. I seriously will try this out sometime! Thank you for sharing and explaining this very creative technique.
robojack Senior Member 520 posts Likes: 1 Joined Sep 2007 More info | Feb 22, 2010 06:39 | #31 Pham, that is an AWESOME technique. I seriously will try this out sometime! Thank you for sharing and explaining this very creative technique. 5DMk2 | 5D Classic /w BG-E4 | EF 35 f1.4L (main) | Sigma 85 f/1.4 (main) | 430EX | LP160| LP120 | AB800 | Armatar 100
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georgebowman Goldmember 1,510 posts Likes: 2 Joined May 2009 Location: Verona, WI More info | Feb 22, 2010 08:25 | #32 Phamster, Thank you so much for sharing your techniques. Terrific work as usual! My Gear: 7d, XTi, 17-55f2.8 EF-S, 70-200f4L, 28-135 Kit lens, 2-580EXii
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HorizonPhoto Member 61 posts Joined Jan 2010 More info | Feb 22, 2010 11:20 | #33 It is not exactly how he does it...Here is a link explaining how an why it is done.
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paytonphoto Member 95 posts Joined Jan 2008 Location: Texas More info | Feb 22, 2010 12:02 | #34 I dont get how it helps reduce the noise? Dan Payton
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sacral Senior Member 633 posts Joined May 2008 Location: Wilmington, NC More info | Feb 22, 2010 12:26 | #35 |
QuickTony Junior Member 28 posts Joined Sep 2009 More info | Feb 22, 2010 12:36 | #36 paytonphoto wrote in post #9658565 I dont get how it helps reduce the noise? If you are speaking on the pixel level, noise will not be reduce. However, since you are combining multiple photos into one, when you print, say, at 16x20, each photo used to create the image would only take up the equivalent of, for example, a 4x6. Intuitively, you know that when viewing a picture smaller, the noise is less pronounced. Someone else may chime in, but I hope this makes sense. 5D Flickr
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rohicks Goldmember 1,834 posts Joined Jul 2007 Location: Jacksonville, FL (Northside) More info |
Derrick_SA Senior Member 672 posts Joined Apr 2006 Location: Chancliff, South Africa More info | Feb 22, 2010 15:09 | #38 thanks for the links, now I understand what and why, appriciate it. HorizonPhoto wrote in post #9658330 It is not exactly how he does it...Here is a link explaining how an why it is done. http://blog.buiphotography.com …xplained-with-directions/ I have done it and it is pretty cool. here is another link: http://www.facebook.com …/video.php?v=575352237342 Canon 50D, 50mm f1.8, Canon 70-200 F4L IS, Canon 24-70 F2.8L, Canon 100mm F2.8 Macro, Sigma 10-20mm F3.5, Canon 1.4x Extender, Canon 430EX Flash, 580EXII flash, Elinchrom BX500ri kit.
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grewbek Member 243 posts Joined Apr 2008 Location: Zionsville, IN More info | Feb 22, 2010 16:59 | #39 Now THAT is cool. Great shot Pham and thanks for clueing us/me into Brenizer's method!
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navydoc Cream of the Crop More info | Maybe it's just me but in the first picture, the bride and groom appear to be miniatures when compared to the yellow lines in the street and the vehicle to the right. Gene - My Photo Gallery ||
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Tawcan Goldmember 2,679 posts Joined Apr 2004 Location: Vancouver Canada More info | Feb 22, 2010 17:57 | #41 Really cool technique, thank for sharing Pham. Any reason why you want to do manual focus on the rest of the shots? If you just leave the focus on the same point as your subject it should be ok no? boblai.com
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Tony.Ibarra Member 140 posts Joined Dec 2008 Location: A van, down by the river More info | Feb 22, 2010 19:08 | #42 Tawcan wrote in post #9660895 Really cool technique, thank for sharing Pham. Any reason why you want to do manual focus on the rest of the shots? If you just leave the focus on the same point as your subject it should be ok no? I think the answer to this one is that once you've achieved focus on your subject, the couple in this case, you want to maintain a consistent perspective. If you focus at different distances (your focus dial on the lens gives a distance to the subject), you will distort the focus of each individual shot, and as such, bokeh and perspective will be thrown off in certain parts of the image. For example, one half of a car on the side of the road may be tack sharp, while another half of the same car could be blurred. 1Dmk3, 7D, 70-200 f/2.8, 50-500 f/4-6.3, 28 f/1.8, 50 f/1.8, 85 f/1.8, 430 EX II
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Point-n-shoot-n Goldmember 2,037 posts Likes: 1127 Joined Jun 2008 Location: Tampa, Florida More info | Feb 22, 2010 21:38 | #43 Tony.Ibarra wrote in post #9661315 I think the answer to this one is that once you've achieved focus on your subject, the couple in this case, you want to maintain a consistent perspective. If you focus at different distances (your focus dial on the lens gives a distance to the subject), you will distort the focus of each individual shot, and as such, bokeh and perspective will be thrown off in certain parts of the image. For example, one half of a car on the side of the road may be tack sharp, while another half of the same car could be blurred. The safest bet to prevent this would be to lock focus on the couple, leave the lens at that distance, and begin to snap around the scene, to ensure proper perspective on all elements within the frame. With auto-focus on, it would constantly change distances from shot to shot. That makes perfrect sense to me. Canon 5D mk IV, Canon 5D mk iii, Canon 5d classic, Rebel XTI 400D 18-55 kit lens, Canon EF 85mm 1:1.8, Canon EF 17-40 F4L, Quantaray 70-300 1:4-5.6 LD, Canon 70-200 F2.8 iiL, Canon EF135 F2 L, Canon 200 F2 L, Tamron 28-75 1:2.8 , 2 alien bee 800's, 430 EXii, 580 EXii, rectangular and octo softboxes, assorted umbrellas, portable backdrops, radio triggers and still adding.............
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FMX Senior Member 612 posts Joined Jan 2010 More info | Feb 23, 2010 00:51 | #44 Makes sense and all... I just dont' think the effect is really worth it unless you need a really large image
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Tawcan Goldmember 2,679 posts Joined Apr 2004 Location: Vancouver Canada More info | Feb 23, 2010 17:44 | #45 Tony.Ibarra wrote in post #9661315 I think the answer to this one is that once you've achieved focus on your subject, the couple in this case, you want to maintain a consistent perspective. If you focus at different distances (your focus dial on the lens gives a distance to the subject), you will distort the focus of each individual shot, and as such, bokeh and perspective will be thrown off in certain parts of the image. For example, one half of a car on the side of the road may be tack sharp, while another half of the same car could be blurred. The safest bet to prevent this would be to lock focus on the couple, leave the lens at that distance, and begin to snap around the scene, to ensure proper perspective on all elements within the frame. With auto-focus on, it would constantly change distances from shot to shot. That's what I thought as well, I guess you could do the same if you have the focus locked using the * button so when you press shutter the focal plane doesn't change. boblai.com
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