What can be done to improve low available light photos?

DStanic wrote in post #9680643
I would suggest using a mono/tripod and going to a slower shutter speed to get a better exposure. I used the 17-55 IS (check my zenfolio) on my 30D w/ ISO1600 and slower shutter speeds were not a problem. IMO a little motion blur can be a cool effect with concert shooting.

A faster lens such as 85mm f/1.8 or any kind of prime lens will work better then a zoom (unless it has IS).

I routinely use my 10-22mm for concert photography. No IS, and an aperture of "only" f/3.5-4.5. Shutter speeds suffer slightly, sure, but more often than not, it's not a problem!

DStanic wrote in post #9680643
A faster lens such as 85mm f/1.8 or any kind of prime lens will work better then a zoom (unless it has IS).

I really can't agree with this statement about IS as it applies to concert photography. Any moving subject will require a fast enough shutter speed to eliminate motion blur, and IS does nothing for you but allow you to leave a shutter open longer with less fear of camera shake. IS is a tool that allows you to go the other direction from the direction you need to go for moving subjects.
Faster glass is the only answer, or flash if it's allowed.
I am still amazed by the 5D's ability to go high ISO without being so noisy it isn't worth it.

And sometimes, the reality of the situation is, that it's just too dark to shoot effectively.

DStanic wrote in post #9680643
I would suggest using a mono/tripod and going to a slower shutter speed to get a better exposure.

The best suggestion so far. But if you can't use a tripod or monopod, you can at least shoot with slow shutter speed bursts instead of single shots. Rip off 5 or 6 shots on high speed and pick the one that has the least blur. After all, if the lens is moving back and forth there's always an instant when it's still before reversing direction.

This is the same principle as "even a blind pig finds an acorn once in a while".

The 135L f/2.0 might be a good choice to rent. It would help get you closer to the action. One way to decide is to look at your pics and see what focal length you use the most. I have had all three of the primes at one time or another shooting basketball and volleyball and they all work just fine. 85 f/1.8, 100 f/2.0, 135 f/2.0

birdfromboat wrote in post #9681392
I really can't agree with this statement about IS as it applies to concert photography. Any moving subject will require a fast enough shutter speed to eliminate motion blur, and IS does nothing for you but allow you to leave a shutter open longer with less fear of camera shake. IS is a tool that allows you to go the other direction from the direction you need to go for moving subjects.
Faster glass is the only answer, or flash if it's allowed.

It really depends on what kind of shutter speeds you are getting relative to focal length. Yes, if your shutter speed isn't fast enough to stop any subject motion to begin with, IS won't do anything for you. The photos I posted were shot with the 70-200mm f2.8 IS, some of them at 200mm. I would have never been able to hand hold those shots at 1/125, which was fast enough to stop some subject motion. (Not when they were trashing about, but when they were singing into the mic for the chorus, etc...) If I had the non-IS version of that lens, I would not have been able to hand hold the lens at 1/125 and get consistent results. So In this case, IS allowed me to handhold the lens, while the 1/125 shutter speed allowed me to stop some subject motion.

number six wrote in post #9681440
The best suggestion so far. But if you can't use a tripod or monopod, you can at least shoot with slow shutter speed bursts instead of single shots. Rip off 5 or 6 shots on high speed and pick the one that has the least blur. After all, if the lens is moving back and forth there's always an instant when it's still before reversing direction.

This is the same principle as "even a blind pig finds an acorn once in a while".

Yep. I was shooting in burst mode. Usually one of them will be usable. Not sure on the tripod. But that depends on the event and venue I suppose.

MT Stringer wrote in post #9681482
The 135L f/2.0 might be a good choice to rent. It would help get you closer to the action. One way to decide is to look at your pics and see what focal length you use the most. I have had all three of the primes at one time or another shooting basketball and volleyball and they all work just fine. 85 f/1.8, 100 f/2.0, 135 f/2.0

Depends on the shutter speeds you are getting. However, gathering from the fact that OP was at f2.8 1/125, that would have been the extra stop he needed...i.e. double the shutter speed or shoot at ISO1600.

That's why I bought my 200L...over a year ago to shoot indoor events, concerts, weddings, etc...Extra stop is a godsend when you are thirsting for any light you can get!

bjyoder wrote in post #9680924
I routinely use my 10-22mm for concert photography. No IS, and an aperture of "only" f/3.5-4.5. Shutter speeds suffer slightly, sure, but more often than not, it's not a problem!

I can hand-hold my 10-20 in very low light as well, I just thought we were talking about longer lenses.

birdfromboat wrote in post #9681392
I really can't agree with this statement about IS as it applies to concert photography. Any moving subject will require a fast enough shutter speed to eliminate motion blur, and IS does nothing for you but allow you to leave a shutter open longer with less fear of camera shake. IS is a tool that allows you to go the other direction from the direction you need to go for moving subjects.
Faster glass is the only answer, or flash if it's allowed.
I am still amazed by the 5D's ability to go high ISO without being so noisy it isn't worth it.

Slower glass with IS is OK if you don't mind the motion blur. I should have specified that, cause I think a little motion blur in concert photography can be a cool thing. Camera shake is never a good thing however.

I love street candid photography, especially in low light using high ISO settings.. It's very challenging and at times difficult..

The trick is to shoot RAW and get it spot on in the camera.. What you have to be mindfull of is exposure and white balance,,get it right in the camera.. I do very little post processing of my images and rarely use noise reduction.. IMHO I find some noise in images actually adds to the pic..

Here is a gallery mostly shot in low light/high ISO..

http://www.pbase.com …/thong_khan_kha​m&page=all

First fix WB. It will be easier to see if your photos have the correct exposure with more accurate (doesn't have to be exact) WB. This is because incandescent light tend to foul meter system and cause under exposure. And under exposure is the main source of noise. And your photos look do look under exposed.

For such a dark place, f/2.8 will probably not sufficient. You may want to consider something like 85f/1.8 or 100f/2