Samyang/Rokinon 8 mm f/3.5 Aspherical IF MC Fish-eye

Thanks Pkilla, there's one more

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Glad you guys like it!

hyogen wrote in post #15392411
hmm...this one looks super familiar... did you share this one already several months ago? I think you said you used a flashlight. I want to try a shot like this soon

Quite possibly I did share this already, not in this thread though. Wanted to show that this lens is awesome even at night

If find it's not that great at night time... Seems to get colour banding and not much contrast compared to... well, everything else.

It is still well and truly my favourite and most used lense however!

^^^Nice!! That image is miles deep.

Well this thread convinced me to pick one of these up. I've been shooting with the 50mm and 40mm primes exclusively for more than a year.

Excellent performance / IQ ... but now I'm dizzy:

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/waz0wski/829800​9421/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/waz0wski/829909​2228/

Keeping the camera level with the horizon significantly reduces the fisheye effect. You do end up with lots of foreground that way, though.

If you keep the horizon level, you can stitch together shots and get ridiculously wide. In this pano of Death Valley, the points on the far left and far right are actually in a straight line behind me. The three shots make it seem like they're "wrapped" around me.

IMAGE LINK: http://bimmermail.com/​Vegas/dv-pano02.jpg

I'm thinking about buying this lens this week since I won't be able to get a full frame camera anytime soon, so I'm skipping the 14mm for now. Does anyone know of a good deal for this lens right now? Adorama has the Bower version for $230 and I'm about to jump on it, unless there is some difference between it and the others that I should know about?

M_Six wrote in post #15398239
Keeping the camera level with the horizon significantly reduces the fisheye effect. You do end up with lots of foreground that way, though.

This this this, times a million.

A lot of people seem buy this lense, take a dozen bendy horizon photos, write it off as a gimmick then give up on it.

My methodology for landscape shots with this is:

1. Set to F8, unless its very dark.
2. Set to liveview with ML crosshairs overlay turned on (for getting horizon bang on level/centre of picture so its not bendy)
3. Look at the far away scenery I want to take a picture of... and park that thought for a moment, as that's going to be in the picture no matter what.
4. Look for an interesting foreground item
5. Pretty much stand beside it or on top of it, using live view so the camera isnt glued to your face gives you much more leeway for seeing how different foreground items turn out at different heights
6. Make sure there are no harsh lined inorganic objects (like lamp posts) near the edge of the shot that run top to bottom. As this will look super curvey, against your favour. If you can have vertical uprights just in one quarter, and near the centre preferably, then you can get away with a bit more before the picture looks crappy.
6. ISO 100, adjust exposure length so nothing's blown out or underexposed.
7. Take picture, done.

Unless very very very subtle, and to perhaps accentuate the fact that you're on top of a mountain or something, in my opinion bendy horizon INSTANTLY kills the suspension of disbelief.

waz0wski wrote in post #15398132
Well this thread convinced me to pick one of these up. I've been shooting with the 50mm and 40mm primes exclusively for more than a year.

Excellent performance / IQ ... but now I'm dizzy:


IMG_5645.jpg by waz0wski

I also was quite suprised to find my own arms/legs creeping into my shots. This is *really* wide! I thought the Tokina 11-16 was wide, but this is significantly wider!


I did try a few "de-fished" images via Lightroom.
I Found that the Sigma 10mm f/2.8 profile seems to defish fairly well:

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/waz0wski/829909​2228/
IMG-5712_BA by waz0wski

I have not yet tried the profiles created / suggested here in this thread though

wow, I'm gonna have to try your defish method with this one.

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/hyofoto/8310270​962/

Hah awesome pic!

Hyogen, please do post it up when you do, that's a great pic!

^^^ all he was missing was the red nose! Nice pic

romanv wrote in post #15407713
This this this, times a million.

A lot of people seem buy this lense, take a dozen bendy horizon photos, write it off as a gimmick then give up on it.

My methodology for landscape shots with this is:

1. Set to F8, unless its very dark.
2. Set to liveview with ML crosshairs overlay turned on (for getting horizon bang on level/centre of picture so its not bendy)
3. Look at the far away scenery I want to take a picture of... and park that thought for a moment, as that's going to be in the picture no matter what.
4. Look for an interesting foreground item
5. Pretty much stand beside it or on top of it, using live view so the camera isnt glued to your face gives you much more leeway for seeing how different foreground items turn out at different heights
6. Make sure there are no harsh lined inorganic objects (like lamp posts) near the edge of the shot that run top to bottom. As this will look super curvey, against your favour. If you can have vertical uprights just in one quarter, and near the centre preferably, then you can get away with a bit more before the picture looks crappy.
6. ISO 100, adjust exposure length so nothing's blown out or underexposed.
7. Take picture, done.

Unless very very very subtle, and to perhaps accentuate the fact that you're on top of a mountain or something, in my opinion bendy horizon INSTANTLY kills the suspension of disbelief.

Thanks for this! After seeing what this lens can do as a landscape lens on a crop camera I decided to go for this lens over the 14mm for now, once I go full frame I'm sure I'll want that 14mm, but for my T2i I just feel 14mm isn't wide enough, I'll definitely be using your guide once I pick this lens up

I'm ready to buy this lens but I need to know if all versions of it come with AF confirm? I'd like to get it and have it ready to shoot with out of the box, I can't seem to find any solid info on this. I'm looking at the Bower version, will I have to get an AF chip with it, or will one come attached?