Canon EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS Mark II

Personally, I'd leave it in Ai servo mode that way it will continue to acquire focus when the little moves. Plus, as mentioned, up the ISO to at least 400 and don't be afraid to go higher with the 7D. If using flash, I start out with the camera flash sync speed, ISO 400 and f4 for starters and work from there, but give all the suggestions a try because that's the only way you're going to figure it out.

There's something fishy here for sure.. I get can x times better shots with my 70-200 f4L even at this shutter speed & wide open and I don't even have IS..
Focus issues probably? Datawiz can you post a sample from a non moving object?

Methodical wrote in post #11842980
Personally, I'd leave it in Ai servo mode that way it will continue to acquire focus when the little moves. Plus, as mentioned, up the ISO to at least 400 and don't be afraid to go higher with the 7D. If using flash, I start out with the camera flash sync speed, ISO 400 and f4 for starters and work from there, but give all the suggestions a try because that's the only way you're going to figure it out.

This is the reason i advised against using AI Servo mode:
---------------
Canon quote:

Adequate Subject with Irregular Movement:

This is the most difficult type of subject for the AI Servo AF system to deal with. A very good example is the stop-and-start, forward-and-backward movement typically seen with a runway-type fashion model. As long as the model is walking towards or away from the camera, everything is fine. But if the model starts moving irregularly, as in certain dance steps, focusing accuracy may suffer.
If the subject simply changes direction, so that predictable movement in one direction is simply shifted into predictable movement in another direction, the Focus Prediction Function can usually adjust to the change with little or no loss of accuracy. However, if the subject movement becomes so irregular that it is no longer predictable, then the EOS 1’s Focus Prediction Function is cancelled. If the subject movement remains unpredictable, then the lens is continually focused to the subject’s most recently detected position. In other words, the focusing position will change if the subject distance changes, but the AI Servo AF system will not execute a false prediction.

---------------

I have 8 grandkids and they never stay still, jerking back & forth out of the horizontal focus plane. Thats why i usually always just use my external flash in ETTL mode to freeze the little ones.

To me fast moving darting back & forth subjects is not like tracking a bird or plane in a steady flight path using AI Servo.

But thats just me & everyone has different techniques & of course opinions.

Regards,

Later tonight from home, I am going to post shots of still images taken indoors. You guys will ahve to pardon my ignorance with 7D but in manual mode it wouldn't allow me to increase/decrease exposure. I will post some more tonight.

And the most recent shot was taken outdoors in shade (on my sundeck) on a very gloomy day. I used on-camera flash. Will be bying 580 EXII soon.

As Silverfox1 suggested, I increased the in camera sharpness and contrast. But ACDSee EXIF still shows sharpness at -1 irrespective of what is in the camera. Maybe it is supposed to be like that. If not, then 7D is doing fishy things. It is a recent purchase too.

shaun raney wrote in post #11842459
What was your point of focus?

Left eye.

Yeah everyone has different techniques.

Is EOS 1 one of the older cameras? If so then I don't think that would be relevant to the 7D or 1D's of today. Where did you get that explanation from I'd like to read up on it (can you provide a link)?

Ai servo is used for all sporting events from football, basketball, dog agility, skiing, tennis, racketball, ice skating, hockey and bird in flight just to name a few, which involve irregular, unpredictable movements. For me if I even think the subject will move, then it's Ai servo for me. In one shot mode if the subject moves, say 1-2 feet towards me I'd have to refocus again and that's why it's Ai servo for me. But it's what works for me.

Silverfox1 wrote in post #11843179
This is the reason i advised against using AI Servo mode:
---------------
Canon quote:

Adequate Subject with Irregular Movement:

This is the most difficult type of subject for the AI Servo AF system to deal with. A very good example is the stop-and-start, forward-and-backward movement typically seen with a runway-type fashion model. As long as the model is walking towards or away from the camera, everything is fine. But if the model starts moving irregularly, as in certain dance steps, focusing accuracy may suffer.
If the subject simply changes direction, so that predictable movement in one direction is simply shifted into predictable movement in another direction, the Focus Prediction Function can usually adjust to the change with little or no loss of accuracy. However, if the subject movement becomes so irregular that it is no longer predictable, then the EOS 1’s Focus Prediction Function is cancelled. If the subject movement remains unpredictable, then the lens is continually focused to the subject’s most recently detected position. In other words, the focusing position will change if the subject distance changes, but the AI Servo AF system will not execute a false prediction.

---------------

I have 8 grandkids and they never stay still, jerking back & forth out of the horizontal focus plane. Thats why i usually always just use my external flash in ETTL mode to freeze the little ones.

To me fast moving darting back & forth subjects is not like tracking a bird or plane in a steady flight path using AI Servo.

But thats just me & everyone has different techniques & of course opinions.

Regards,

datawiz2012 wrote in post #11843393
Later tonight from home, I am going to post shots of still images taken indoors. You guys will ahve to pardon my ignorance with 7D but in manual mode it wouldn't allow me to increase/decrease exposure. I will post some more tonight.

Are you referring to exposure compensation? Such as -1 and +1 like you would have in Av mode, Tv mode, and P mode?

If this is what you are referring to, manual mode certainly can control exposure. Just not in the method you are probably accusotomed to. You control exposure by adjusting shutter speed, ISO, and aperture. These 3 settings adjust exposure.

May I suggest purchasing "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson? I bought this book awhile back when I started and it helped out tremendously on understanding the principals of photography. This will allow you to understand the correlation of those 3 settings and help you calculate Fstops so that you don't have to rely on Av mode settings.

I hope I'm not off base here on suggesting this as I'm being sincere and I'm just trying to help.

Methodical wrote in post #11843699
Yeah everyone has different techniques.

Is EOS 1 one of the older cameras? If so then I don't think that would be relevant to the 7D or 1D's of today. Where did you get that explanation from I'd like to read up on it (can you provide a link)?

Ai servo is used for all sporting events from football, basketball, dog agility, skiing, tennis, racketball, ice skating, hockey and bird in flight just to name a few, which involve irregular, unpredictable movements. For me if I even think the subject will move, then it's Ai servo for me. In one shot mode if the subject moves, say 1-2 feet towards me I'd have to refocus again and that's why it's Ai servo for me. But it's what works for me.

Yes its an old article that was written by one of Canon`s old tech managers.

I dont shoot any fast sports or BIF, planes , etc. so i very seldom use it.
But your right that with todays dual logic processors & multiple focus point cameras it is much more advanced but obviously it is not working for the OP.

The OP has apparently been having problems since he 1st got the 7d so IMO me he may just need to get back to the basics first, plus as he states he wants the 580 EX II which will definitely help him out trying to acheive proper exposure from the apperance of the captures he has posted.

Here is the old article : http://www.shutterfrea​ks.com/Tips/CanonAISer​vo.html

Regards,

I got this lens for about $1000 from Amazon back in December when they had the double rebate (sold the 60D, other lenses and FAR Epson printer).

Initially I thought that my copy was a little soft (like datawiz) compared to the images posted here but after taking some pictures in bright sunlight the sharpness improved dramatically. Also I learned about the unsharp mask which made my jpg's much sharper.

Datawiz, both eyes seem a bit soft but the tip of the nose seems to be sharp. You might want to try live view focusing (and zoom in 10x) to see if that helps. Also, you can set the MA on your 7D to compensate for any front focus issues (if any). A quick way to test this is to shoot a target with a yard stick at an angle next to it. You'll be able to see which lines of your yard stick are sharp and it's relation to your target (or you could buy something like the lens align). An article that helped me was: how-to-test-a-lens.

Vikroda wrote in post #11845112
I got this lens for about $1000 from Amazon back in December when they had the double rebate (sold the 60D, other lenses and FAR Epson printer).

Initially I thought that my copy was a little soft (like datawiz) compared to the images posted here but after taking some pictures in bright sunlight the sharpness improved dramatically. Also I learned about the unsharp mask which made my jpg's much sharper.

Datawiz, both eyes seem a bit soft but the tip of the nose seems to be sharp. You might want to try live view focusing (and zoom in 10x) to see if that helps. Also, you can set the MA on your 7D to compensate for any front focus issues (if any). A quick way to test this is to shoot a target with a yard stick at an angle next to it. You'll be able to see which lines of your yard stick are sharp and it's relation to your target (or you could buy something like the lens align). An article that helped me was: how-to-test-a-lens.

It looks to me the OP's 7D and the lens need calibration - one way to confirm and question to ask is does the other lens exhibit the same problem. I had similar issue when I got my 60D and took it in for calibration and the tech reported that the body and lens both were out of spec. Just my two cents... but you need to validate with your old lens first.

Even if the lens exhibit front and back focus it should not be that soft for the lens of this caliber. Please put shoot a still object on a tripod with center focus to confirm.

I find that if lens and body are calibrated hand held shot at 1/50 should not be that soft. At least something within the shot should be in focus and try to use live view shooting and guessing game will drive you crazy.

datawiz2012 wrote in post #11842161
Is this better?

I'm sorry the shot is out of focus! Subject is beautiful though. LOL

this lens begs to be used for motorsports.

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This lens is so tempting. But then so is getting a 400mm F5.6L + Sigma 85mm 1.4 + 70-200mm f4L all for the same price.... or pretty close!

^Nice shot Palna. I love how you nail the eyes.