As always thanks a lot for the kind words friends! Thanks Vectoria, Rivest, Annie, and Al.
@dshort, parodying Gandalf: "I've seen that cast in the images, and not by you!". There is no shots that describe the ambient there, but I can almost bet (something cheap of course!
) that you have wooden or colored ceilings! and you are bouncing your flash. Did I win?
At my grandfather's birthday a few years ago I was so happy to have borrowed my fathers camera and flash that I just tilted the head and fired away. Every image was cast with a redish/orange tint. The flash was bouncing off the wood or red ceiling (I didn't noticed it there) and it was like turning on a red light on everything. The other option is that you have some WB hue shift or some other variations made to the Picture Styles, cause floor only casts that hue when lit through extreme sunlight! At any rate the images are fantastic, and I agree with Annie, the Cat's image is nailed!
Annie, fantastic shots of the power outage. Glad it forced you out to get some pictures! I'm not wishing for that now, but it sure is a 'welcome' accident. The sunbeams above your house are great!
Vectoria, what do you want to achieve with the filters? I ask because good filters can be expensive while cheap filters will surely degrade image quality. I find there are three useful filters to have.
- The first are UV filters to protect the lens. This has been discussed at-nauseum and there is no clear consensus: some say "leave the lens without UV, change front element if needed, specially at $50 per filter" others say "use it to protect the lens". I am with the latter group.
- The others are ND (Neutral Density) filters. These cut the light going into the sensor and have a few uses. They can help use wider apertures outdoors and still achieve good DoF, or to force longer shutter speeds for things like clouds or waterfalls. This are marginal situations for most of us, but the results could be quite pleasing. There are different strengths of filters, the most common cut 3 stops, but you can find all sorts to some that cut a whooping amount of 10 fstops at which point you can no longer see through the camera, you need to compose the image with the filter out, focus, measure light, then put the filter and calculate the new exposure and they are worth for 30 seconds and up... some to several minutes.
- The last type are the Circular Polarizing Filters. These help polarize the light and are used to wipe out reflections (for instance, fish inside a pond, you could take away the reflection of the pond in order to see the fish) or to concentrate the light from the sky... instead of a washed light blue you'll get a nice deep blue. There are some of these like the one Annie had that are, on top of that, warming filters... they'll render warmer tones.
So, what are you hoping to achieve with the filters?
Rafa.