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Thread started 29 Mar 2010 (Monday) 04:10
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Golf Course HDR

 
magwai
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Mar 29, 2010 04:10 |  #1

IMAGE: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2731/4467759890_10ea6dc8c1_b.jpg

i have been experimenting with HDR for a while and really like the dreamy airbrushed feel of the results. don't hold back with any criticism or feedback. i am keen to learn and improve.



  
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MatthewW
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Mar 29, 2010 05:21 |  #2

That looks good. No obvious halos or oversaturation. You've done a good job of using HDR to achieve a photo-realistic result rather than hyper-real.

My only suggestion is to take the final result into Photoshop or some other PP software and work on the contrast in the image, to give it a little more punch.

The sky also looks a little blue/magenta on my screen....and I'd either crop or clone out the rope in the foreground.


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argyle
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Mar 29, 2010 06:54 as a reply to  @ MatthewW's post |  #3

I'm having a hard time seeing anything that's in sharp focus...ditto on cropping out the chain/rope in the foreground. I don't see that the DR would have required an HDR image...maybe just a blend of two exposures would have been all that was necessary. Was this a multiple-shot HDR, or was it made from a single image that was pushed/pulled to account for the exposure variations? I do like the fact that the HDR isn't "overcooked" (as is usually the case).


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magwai
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Mar 29, 2010 07:17 |  #4

argyle wrote in post #9891806 (external link)
I'm having a hard time seeing anything that's in sharp focus...ditto on cropping out the chain/rope in the foreground. I don't see that the DR would have required an HDR image...maybe just a blend of two exposures would have been all that was necessary. Was this a multiple-shot HDR, or was it made from a single image that was pushed/pulled to account for the exposure variations? I do like the fact that the HDR isn't "overcooked" (as is usually the case).

i agree it is soft looking. i think i was steered that way by trying to keep it looking real in photomatix. i will check the originals but i think they are sharper.

it is from 3 shots btw.

here is a different one that is sharper and more contrasty but less real looking

IMAGE: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2743/4470435222_e04e508666_b.jpg



  
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bakedcookies
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Mar 29, 2010 11:00 |  #5

2nd is much better. Cool!




  
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Jack ­ Cooper
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Mar 29, 2010 14:50 |  #6

#2 is way nice, very interesting, simple but pleasing to look at. Good work.




  
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Harlz
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Mar 29, 2010 22:21 |  #7

I agree with the previous posts. Those images are a good start with no obvious problems like halos, oversatuation or ghosting. They could definitely be improved by a tone curve which would improve the contrast.


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magwai
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Mar 30, 2010 03:58 |  #8

Harlz wrote in post #9897011 (external link)
I agree with the previous posts. Those images are a good start with no obvious problems like halos, oversatuation or ghosting. They could definitely be improved by a tone curve which would improve the contrast.

I am interested, can you explain further please? I can use the curve in photoshop but what am i trying to achieve. Feel free to show me on one of those photos if you like.




  
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argyle
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Mar 30, 2010 06:48 |  #9

magwai wrote in post #9898215 (external link)
I am interested, can you explain further please? I can use the curve in photoshop but what am i trying to achieve. Feel free to show me on one of those photos if you like.

Here's a real quick edit of your second shot. I didn't use a curve layer, just a Local Contrast Enhancement layer to improve the contrast, then a little output sharpening for the web. No color or saturation adjustments were made. It could probably use a little noise reduction on the sky (I just didn't bother with it). Took all of 30 seconds:

IMAGE NOT FOUND
Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE

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magwai
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Mar 30, 2010 08:46 |  #10

argyle wrote in post #9898699 (external link)
Here's a real quick edit of your second shot. I didn't use a curve layer, just a Local Contrast Enhancement layer to improve the contrast, then a little output sharpening for the web. No color or saturation adjustments were made. It could probably use a little noise reduction on the sky (I just didn't bother with it). Took all of 30 seconds:

wow, that is a big improvement for 30 secs. thanks.

could that stuff be done in camera raw or are there advantages to using full photoshop?




  
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argyle
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Mar 30, 2010 09:30 as a reply to  @ magwai's post |  #11

You'd need to use Photoshop or similar image-editing software...but if you're not shooting in RAW, you should reconsider.


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magwai
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Apr 03, 2010 10:57 as a reply to  @ argyle's post |  #12

here is a very quick attempt to improve the first one.

IMAGE: http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/4486475515_9429390192_b.jpg

the main thing was to leave out one of the hdr shots - i was too overexposed and was leading to blurry branches.

question: i also tried to edit the sky to take out some of the blue tint (some of that is real btw, but i can't be sure how much). the problem i am having is all the little bits of sky between the tree branches which get left behind and give away the edit. any tips on how to do this?



  
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CameraBuff
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Apr 03, 2010 17:33 |  #13

Nice shots; I like the fact that there are no halo's. Argyle, nice edit; what settings for the sharpening did you use. I always seem to over-sharpen. I can't seem to get a crisp look like you did here; what's the secret? Wow; you have skills!


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argyle
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Apr 03, 2010 18:49 |  #14

CameraBuff wrote in post #9927142 (external link)
Nice shots; I like the fact that there are no halo's. Argyle, nice edit; what settings for the sharpening did you use. I always seem to over-sharpen. I can't seem to get a crisp look like you did here; what's the secret? Wow; you have skills!

The 'secret' is to get away from the unsharp mask filter in Photoshop. I use a plug-in called "Photokit Sharpener"...its downloadable, just can't recall if it had a free demo or not (its been awhile). Its based on the USM, but more customizable...its the only thing I use for sharpening.

Photokit Sharpener lets you do sharpening in several stages...Capture Sharpen to counteract the AA filter, Creative Sharpening to let you make specific tweaks in particular areas without having to use a layer mask and paint in black or white, and finall Output Sharpener...this lets you tailor the final sharpening to the end-use of the image (inkjet print, post on the web, or other printing method. The Creative portion also includes a haze cutter filter and some other goodies. All sharpening stages are done in layers, and you can adjust the opacity (amount of sharpening) on each. Plus, no masks and painting to mess with...just size the brush accordingly and that's it.


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CameraBuff
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Apr 04, 2010 11:43 |  #15

Thanks for the info; I will keep this plug in in mine. I am not quite ready for that; still learning photoshop.


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