Mark
FWIW I have friends with that printer and they wouldn't disagree. The trap is that, in choosing "Printer manages colours", you're stuck with Canon's papers (the appropriate profile is applied under the hood when you make the paper choice AFAIK) That's not necessarily a bad thing. Their papers are pretty good and I've colleagues who wouldn't use anything else.
However, I personally really like the Ilford Gallerie Smooth Pearl. Going the "Printer Manages the Color" route doesn't allow you to select an appropriate print profile so "Photoshop manages colours" would be the only option.
I looked at the Pro9500 manual, and the driver layout is just a little different from the Pro9000. But the Pro9000 recipe should work: I've got OS X (10.6.3) on my iMac and it does all the right things to automatically turn off the CM once I've told it to let PS manage.
The steps are
o Choose "PS manages color"
o Choose the appropriate profile for the paper from the drop-down.
(these two choices trigger the later automatic "turning off colour management" in the printer driver)
o press print to go into the printer driver screen.
o Choose appropriate media type (under 'Quality and Media') - also what I learned from studying the way Easy Photo Print works is that it always uses "Detailed setting: Fine" rather than 'Top quality photo" in "print Mode". I use that setting routinely with good results.
o At this point (if this works as for the Pro9000) you should find the remaining choices made for you. Under the 'Color Options' drop-down you should find Colorsync automatically chosen for "color correction" and 'standard' also auto-chosen for Color Mode. The 'Color Balance' boxes should all be greyed out.
If I'm right (and I know it's frustrating getting advice from folk who haven't got your exact setup) you should get a pretty good print from that.
Hope this is helpful
Tim
PS 1 I'm assuming your monitor is reasonably well profiled: if there's a vast difference between screen and print when you chose "printer manages" and one of Canon's good papers, I'd suspect monitor before the printer!
PS 2 Mac OS 10.6.3 has allegedly fixed some printer issues although IMHO issues remain where you're trying to use a completely non-color-managed workflow for special jobs like profile targets. But that's down the track a way!

