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Thread started 31 Mar 2010 (Wednesday) 18:16
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I think there is a problem with my 150-500 OS

 
imahawki
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Mar 31, 2010 18:16 |  #1

Here are some shots from my 150-500 OS with EXIF intact. I am just completely unable to get sharp shots with this lens. I know some of these are higher ISO but what am I supposed to do? To get in the 200 ISO range I am often at 1/250 or less. If I want to get 2x the focal length, I end up at ISO 1600 or 2000. Either way, I do NOT think these shots are sharp. I'm attaching two images and corresponding 100% crops. What do I do?

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Olympus OMD E-M10 | Olympus 25 f/1.8 | Olympus 45 f/1.8 | Olympus 75 f/1.8 | Olympus 9-18 f/4-5.6 | Olympus 14-42 f/3.5-5.6 | Olympus 40-150 f/4-5.6
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KenjiS
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Mar 31, 2010 18:18 |  #2

They're not sharp

But you dont need 2x the focal length, the 150-500 has 4-stop OS, Meaning you should -easily- manage down to 1/250 or 1/320, meaning ISO400-ish...

I manage 1/125 with my 100-400 with its 2-stop IS easily

though the second picture also looks like it focused wrong


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themadman
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Mar 31, 2010 18:19 |  #3

Have you shot it on a tripod without the OS and shooting a static object? It those are clear, then you need to try taking a photo with OS and the exact same photo without OS. If there is a difference there (meaning the OS is working) the rest is technique.


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imahawki
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Mar 31, 2010 18:20 |  #4

I'll try a few controlled tests and post the results. I've got the OS on mode 1 (that is right, right)?


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amfoto1
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Mar 31, 2010 18:47 |  #5

It's possible that the lens is front-focusing, too, but those look like camera shake to me.

If not using a tripod, that would help. OS (or IS) can only do so much.

You might want to micro adjust the lens on your camera. With zooms it can be tricky to find a compromise that works at both extremes of the zoom range. But it's worth a try.

Alternatively, send the lens in to Sigma for calibration.

Another thing... You don't have a "protection" filter on the lens, do you? Those can cause focus issues, especially cheaper filters.

Are you using the lens hood? It can help with accurate focus.


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imahawki
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Mar 31, 2010 18:52 |  #6

No filter at all, hood yes.

These shots are on a tripod using mirror lock-up and 10 second countdown for the shutter. Focus was on the middle switch. SOOC

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Olympus OMD E-M10 | Olympus 25 f/1.8 | Olympus 45 f/1.8 | Olympus 75 f/1.8 | Olympus 9-18 f/4-5.6 | Olympus 14-42 f/3.5-5.6 | Olympus 40-150 f/4-5.6
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Mar 31, 2010 18:53 |  #7

The robin pic is probably the best example of proper shooting conditions and the pic OOF. If you look at the grass just in front of the robin, it looks pretty sharp so I'm guessing that the lens is front focusing a bit. As your shooting with a 50D, try to adjust the micro focus adjustment just a tad.

Also, it looks as if the picture can use a little post processing sharpening.


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imahawki
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Mar 31, 2010 18:54 |  #8

I should mention that I tried to micro adjust the lens last week because of this same problem. I settled on an extreme compensation of -20 by shooting a business card taped to my wall and putting the camera on a tripod, mirror lockup, etc. The shot I JUST posted of the light switch is with the lens zeroed out again.


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imahawki
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Mar 31, 2010 18:58 |  #9

Also look at these. The first shot is the middle switch, the focus point. The second shot is the switch to the left of center. Because this was taken at an angle, the 2nd switch is SLIGHTLY farther away. Do you think it is any sharper?

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imahawki
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Mar 31, 2010 19:37 |  #10

Here's another real-world shot from a few days ago. ISO 500, 1/500, f/8, OS on mode 1 and using a monopod even. 100% crop again. I don't think its sharp.

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By contrast, here's a shot using my 55-250IS, ISO 800, f/5.6, 1/320. yeah you can tell its at ISO 800 but it looks sharp and crisp. It is SOOC except for the white balance... 100% crop.

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SVTmaniac
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Mar 31, 2010 19:43 |  #11

This lens has a learning curve. First off you first pic is shot at 1/250 and even with OS I would never expect mine to look sharp at 500mm 1/250. Second shot is OOF and f6.3 this lens is soft wide open at 500mm try stepping it down to f8 and bump your iso up some more. take a look at my flickr and all the bird shots are with my Bigmos with shutter speeds well over 1/800. You can't expect miracles from the OS system unless you have steady hands. Also use the center point focus if you can and I also suggest microadjusting. I had to microadjust -5 with my 50D.


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imahawki
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Mar 31, 2010 19:46 |  #12

SVTmaniac wrote in post #9909880 (external link)
This lens has a learning curve. First off you first pic is shot at 1/250 and even with OS I would never expect mine to look sharp at 500mm 1/250. Second shot is OOF and f6.3 this lens is soft wide open at 500mm try stepping it down to f8 and bump your iso up some more. take a look at my flickr and all the bird shots are with my Bigmos with shutter speeds well over 1/800. You can't expect miracles from the OS system unless you have steady hands. Also use the center point focus if you can and I also suggest microadjusting. I had to microadjust -5 with my 50D.


What do you think of the shot at f/8, 1/500 from a monopod that still doesn't look sharp?


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SVTmaniac
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Mar 31, 2010 19:48 |  #13

imahawki wrote in post #9909901 (external link)
What do you think of the shot at f/8, 1/500 from a monopod that still doesn't look sharp?

I think it's a 100% crop that would look great otherwise. ;) Also maybe a tad OOF like I said do the microadjust on your camera and report back.


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imahawki
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Mar 31, 2010 19:55 |  #14

Thanks guys... not trying to ask for advice and then ignore it (that's a pet peeve of mine) so I'll keep trying, but I've had this lens for a few months now and have never been completely satisfied. I've played with the micro adjust and feel like I'm just guessing. Is +10 sharper than -5? Is 0 sharper than both... sometimes I can't tell.


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SVTmaniac
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Mar 31, 2010 19:59 as a reply to  @ imahawki's post |  #15

There is a good write up here on how to do it but basically all I did was put it in manual focus and focus on something perfectly. Use live view if you have to to get the focus dead on. Then I switched it to AF let the camera focus. I watched the focus meter and if it moved I microadjusted the opposite direction. I kept doing this until what I had set manually didn't change when I put the camera in AF and let it decide. Use center point when you do this. Good luck!


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I think there is a problem with my 150-500 OS
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