Remote Flash and ETTL

Have you checked out www.speedliting.com ? It's a new site by Syl Arena on flash lighting specific for Canon shooters.

wdwpsu wrote in post #9918470
Have you checked out www.speedliting.com ? It's a new site by Syl Arena on flash lighting specific for Canon shooters.

That is an EXCELLENT resource; thanks, wdwpsu

thanks tim,I thought that was the case but I like the way you explain things for numb nuts like me.So ETTL would be more useful off camera if it could control ALL the lighting.

butugly wrote in post #9918754
thanks tim,I thought that was the case but I like the way you explain things for numb nuts like me.So ETTL would be more useful off camera if it could control ALL the lighting.

I don't even know what you mean. ETTL is generally only helpful off camera in situations where things change rapidly, like for portrait sessions, but even then I prefer manual with my assistant changing power as required.

tim wrote in post #9918808
I don't even know what you mean. ETTL is generally only helpful off camera in situations where things change rapidly, like for portrait sessions, but even then I prefer manual with my assistant changing power as required.

Thanks we dont all have assistants to adjust the power settings on our flash heads,
So generally go manual when off camera,ETTL is more useful when the flash is on camera and the subject can move closer or further away.

butugly wrote in post #9918907
Thanks we dont all have assistants to adjust the power settings on our flash heads,
So generally go manual when off camera,ETTL is more useful when the flash is on camera.

I wouldn't say it like that. ETTL has its problems whether on camera or off. Even on camera, a white highly reflective wedding dress can fool its interpretation of the scene's exposure and shut off the flash earlier than you might have wanted. Just the opposite for a scene with a bunch of men wearing black tuxes. The reception hall for my Friday wedding was LOADED with mirrors. I used ETTL all night, both on and off camera, and exposure was spotty. That's ETTL's biggest problem, the camera and flash, whether in the hot shoe or remote, can misinterpret the scene.

BUT, under most circumstances, it's pretty good. For the portrat segment (which is when I'm most interested in using remote ETTL flash), it can get the job done pretty well without metering making it much faster and more effecient.

Thats what I was thinking (bright/dark colours and movement will effect the exposure of the whole subject)
So overall metering the whole subject is the more effective way of getting the exposure correct or close,maybe i'll use my radio trigger and not worry so much on the ETTL side until I've got a better grasp of things ,

butugly wrote in post #9918907
Thanks we dont all have assistants to adjust the power settings on our flash heads,
So generally go manual when off camera,ETTL is more useful when the flash is on camera and the subject can move closer or further away.

Pretty much.

tim wrote in post #9915867
I don't need ETTL when the flash is off camera, I get more consistency in manual, and that shortens my processing time since I can work on batches of images.

Exactly. When using OCF I normally have them positioned in such a way that using ETTL would actually be counter-productive. Set up your remote flash(es) and use some kind of radio trigger to fire them. I normally have my OCF set up at 1/8th power to start, then adjust from there, using my LCD and histogram to check exposure on the first few images.

There are plenty of threads like this over on the flash forum.

To me, while manual is the preferred and cheaper method, if you do wedding professionally I think a set of ttl capable PWs or RPs will help out and pay for themselves in the long run. They don't cost that much either.

I don't think ETTL radio slaves are necessary. They may help some people depending on their style, especially if they work alone or don't understand manual flash, but to me the advantages of manual flash outway the benefits of ETTL.

Just so I get it; you guys who work manual, you're not taking the time to do reads; you guess at an initial power level and essentially chimp from there?

Peacefield wrote in post #9929475
Just so I get it; you guys who work manual, you're not taking the time to do reads; you guess at an initial power level and essentially chimp from there?

Yep, I guess then adjust the power by checking the histogram. Even if you use a light meter you still have to judge by the histogram as every camera has different sensitivity - ie claimed ISO100 could be 70-130.

Peacefield wrote in post #9913263
Just curious about the approach others use to fire there flashes remotely while still maintaining ETTL.

When indoors and with line of site, I like using a pair of 580exII's and infared, but that has obvious limitations.

I have Cybersyncs, but they don't do ETTL.

I also have a very long ETTL cord from FlashZebra which works great, but of course, the cord is obnoxious to deal with.

I keep looking at Radio Poppers and Pocket Wizards. Maybe even going with Quantum flashes and their setup for ETTL. I have yet to pull the trigger on any of this, though. Partly over cost though I'm not completely unwilling to drop the $'s. Partly because the reviews for all of these other approaches suggest that each has their own challenges with reliability. And then also, I have to imagine that the next iteration of the 580 may come with it already embedded.

So thoughts on this?

Pocket Wizards all the way!

currently being used on the 40d with as 100mm f2.8 and with a single 580ex2 whilst here in the UK.
So so simple to setup and to use straight away - full ETTL and reliably firing at distances of 70'.

Have yet to try beyond this distance, as I shoot alone I am scared that somene might run-off with the f/gun!

I have researched for 14 months before committing. Earlier releases of PW had issues especially when coupled with the 40D. Today, no such problems!
Honestly ---> worth every penny just because it's so simple and quick to get going.

Peacefield wrote in post #9929475
Just so I get it; you guys who work manual, you're not taking the time to do reads; you guess at an initial power level and essentially chimp from there?

I meter the first shot with a flashmeter, then ony meter again when I've made a substantial adjustment.