Stacking Filters!!! (Possible?)

Hey Folks

I have a question regarding stacking Neutral Density Filters... Good or Bad idea? Say I had a 3 stop, 2 stop, and 1 stop... could they be stacked to make a ... (dunno how the math comes out) larger stop filter? Or is this a bad idea?

Also, if I wanted to get some neutral density filters... is it better to get a screw on or some of those holder things? I am mainly concerned with keeping costs relatively low since I would rarely use it.

Buy a cheap filter first and see if you like the effect.

Check it here:

http://stores.ebay.com …_trksidZp4634Q2​ec0Q2em322

Then if you like the effect, buy the high quality ones...

All you need is get a FOTODIOX P series Cokin holder, ring adapter (82mm to your desired lens size) and some Fotodiox filter. If you like it, keep the Filter holder, adapter and buy a real expensive lens.

So you feel it is better to buy the whole holder and filter stuff oppose to just a screw on?

I once stacked, my mistake, two UV filters and they caused the light to bounce back and forth and halos throughout the pics. Wasn't really a big deal. I was only on top of Haleakala, the dormant volcano in Maui, a thrice in a lifetime experience, at 4 in the morning waiting in freezing temps for sunrise.

I do believe NDs can be stacked, however.

mark

Of course... I do it all the time. If your filters are of reasonable quality then any negative effect on the image will be barely noticeable. Vignetting can be a problem with wide-angle lenses when stacking filters - depends on the individual lens.

themadman wrote in post #9970522
Hey Folks

I have a question regarding stacking Neutral Density Filters... Good or Bad idea? Say I had a 3 stop, 2 stop, and 1 stop... could they be stacked to make a ... (dunno how the math comes out) larger stop filter? Or is this a bad idea?

You can stack ND's and GND's...you can also stack combinations such as ND with GND. The light reduction is additive. Combining a 2-stop with a 4-stop will result in a 6-stop light reduction.

Stay away from threaded GND filters...if you want to use GND filters, go with the square/rectangular type. If you plan on using threaded ND filters, you can stack them without issue (assuming you're using a good quality filter). About the only problem you may have to contend with will be vignetting, but that's dependent upon the focal length that you're using. Very long exposures may cause a magenta cast to the image, however, due to some IR getting through...the color cast can be removed in post.

I wouldn't buy crappy filters first to see if you like it. If you do decide to 'upgrade' to a 'better' filter setup later on, you'll be stuck with the crappy filters with (most likely) no way to get rid of them. The Cokin P system is relatively cheap, but I'd use Hitech filters with it instead of the Cokin filters. If it turns out that you don't care for this type of photography, you can always sell the P kit and recoup most of your money.

I went the cheap route: $24 for the 3 filters + cokin filter
2) modded the cokin filter by shrinking the 3rd outer filter to prevent vignetting (there still is some vignetting at 16mm on a 5d, but on a crop, it shouldn't creep in.
3) purchased the ebay welding filter but has a green color cast that is slightly fixable in post production.

<$50 for a fun setup

I've stacked circular and lee filters before and the only problem I encountered was with the circular filters vignetting occurred with using 2 or more at shorter shots; with the lee's, I found that when reaching the 6+ stop range or any ND filter, you start to encounter a magenta cast on the picture, but is easily fixed in post. Hope this helps. Also make sure you don't trap dust or dirt between the filters as your screwing them together - I did that and was wondering why there was a spot on all my shots that day (spent the next few hours editing out the spot from all the pics).

argyle wrote in post #9972993
You can stack ND's and GND's...you can also stack combinations such as ND with GND. The light reduction is additive. Combining a 2-stop with a 4-stop will result in a 6-stop light reduction.

Stay away from threaded GND filters...if you want to use GND filters, go with the square/rectangular type. If you plan on using threaded ND filters, you can stack them without issue (assuming you're using a good quality filter). About the only problem you may have to contend with will be vignetting, but that's dependent upon the focal length that you're using. Very long exposures may cause a magenta cast to the image, however, due to some IR getting through...the color cast can be removed in post.

I wouldn't buy crappy filters first to see if you like it. If you do decide to 'upgrade' to a 'better' filter setup later on, you'll be stuck with the crappy filters with (most likely) no way to get rid of them. The Cokin P system is relatively cheap, but I'd use Hitech filters with it instead of the Cokin filters. If it turns out that you don't care for this type of photography, you can always sell the P kit and recoup most of your money.

Could you link me the specific holder and filters I would want? I was thinking maybe a lower stop filter (maybe 3 stop or 4 stop?) and a higher stop one (8-10?)

My widest lenses are 17-40 on my 5D and 10-20 on my 500D.

Something like this?

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …077__P_Series_F​ilter.html

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …Density_ND_.htm​l#features

Before I got a DSLR, I stacked 3 NDs and a Polarizer on my Canon SX10 IS since it would only stop down to f/8 (I was trying to take long exposures of waterfalls). As long as I didn't shoot into the sun, or shoot at the widest angle (vignetting), the pictures came out well.

themadman wrote in post #9978157
Could you link me the specific holder and filters I would want? I was thinking maybe a lower stop filter (maybe 3 stop or 4 stop?) and a higher stop one (8-10?)

My widest lenses are 17-40 on my 5D and 10-20 on my 500D.

Something like this?

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …077__P_Series_F​ilter.html

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …Density_ND_.htm​l#features

Stay away from the P-sized holder...too limiting due to the fixed slots and not the best choice for a full frame camera. Look at the larger holders, such as Cokin Z-Pro and the Lee holder (preferably the Lee). I'm not going to go into the whys because there are literally dozens and dozens of threads on this very topic...you'll just have to search them out (plus I'm tired of repeating myself ). Hitech filters are very good and moderately priced (either 4x4 or 4x5 sized for the larger holder).

Its hard to recommend an ND strength since the proper filter depends on the available amount of light. For waterfalls, you will need to get your shutter speed down to at least the 1/2-second range, and maybe a bit longer. If you assume the Sunny 16 rule, and your ISO is at 100, your shutter speed will be about 1/100-sec. To get a shutter speed of 1/2-sec, you will need six stops of light reduction. You can go smaller than f/16, but then other issues such as diffraction could come into play. You could also stack a polarizer with the ND filter, which will give an additional 1.5 to 2-stops of light reduction (and if you're shooting waterfalls, you should be using a polarizer 99% of the time anyway (better saturation, reflection control, and glare elimination).

argyle wrote in post #9979236
Stay away from the P-sized holder...too limiting due to the fixed slots and not the best choice for a full frame camera. Look at the larger holders, such as Cokin Z-Pro and the Lee holder (preferably the Lee). I'm not going to go into the whys because there are literally dozens and dozens of threads on this very topic...you'll just have to search them out (plus I'm tired of repeating myself ). Hitech filters are very good and moderately priced (either 4x4 or 4x5 sized for the larger holder).

Its hard to recommend an ND strength since the proper filter depends on the available amount of light. For waterfalls, you will need to get your shutter speed down to at least the 1/2-second range, and maybe a bit longer. If you assume the Sunny 16 rule, and your ISO is at 100, your shutter speed will be about 1/100-sec. To get a shutter speed of 1/2-sec, you will need six stops of light reduction. You can go smaller than f/16, but then other issues such as diffraction could come into play. You could also stack a polarizer with the ND filter, which will give an additional 1.5 to 2-stops of light reduction (and if you're shooting waterfalls, you should be using a polarizer 99% of the time anyway (better saturation, reflection control, and glare elimination).

Stay away from the P size filter, got it. Sorry about the questions because I honestly have no clue when it comes to filter holders and such, I guess I looked at that due to <below> I assuming Cokin P system mean P filter =/ Anyways, thanks for the info!

argyle wrote in post #9972993
I wouldn't buy crappy filters first to see if you like it. If you do decide to 'upgrade' to a 'better' filter setup later on, you'll be stuck with the crappy filters with (most likely) no way to get rid of them. The Cokin P system is relatively cheap, but I'd use Hitech filters with it instead of the Cokin filters. If it turns out that you don't care for this type of photography, you can always sell the P kit and recoup most of your money.

We should honestly have a sticky for filters and filter holders. There seems to be quite a few systems out there and when searching I wasn't sure which ones would cause vignette problems for certain lenses, which ones were a good deal, etc etc.

So to double check, I would need:

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …_Holder_.html#a​ccessories

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …m_Z_Pro_Adapter​_Ring.html

and as for filters, something like this?

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …_Holder_.html#a​ccessories

themadman wrote in post #9981728
So to double check, I would need:

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …_Holder_.html#a​ccessories

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …m_Z_Pro_Adapter​_Ring.html

and as for filters, something like this?

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …_Holder_.html#a​ccessories

Basically, but before buying the Cokin Z-Pro, read through the below link for a comparison between it and the Lee holder. You'd really be much better off spending the additional $15 or so for the Lee kit and getting the 77mm wide angle adapter ring (also Lee). The WA ring is a bit more expensive than others, but it really reduces the amount of vignetting with a UWA on a FF camera. Anyway, that's my recommendation. The final decision is obviously yours...

Cokin Z-Pro vs Lee Foundation Kit Comparison

Hitech ND Grads

Lee Foundation Kit Holder and 77mm Wide Angle Adapter Ring