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Thread started 12 Apr 2010 (Monday) 14:34
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Why the poor image quality? Or is it me?

 
Snydremark
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Apr 12, 2010 19:54 as a reply to  @ post 9982888 |  #16

One other thing; was there much wind?


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HappySnapper90
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Apr 12, 2010 20:16 |  #17

I change my mind, it's an image that hasn't been properly developed - low contrast from probably a foggy/misty setting. I know your "image editing" is not turned on, but I feel you need the help. Here is my fix up with Lightroom applying a proper tone curve and correcting the white balance as well as properly sharpening the image.


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Lee
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Apr 12, 2010 20:32 |  #18

Snydremark wrote in post #9982898 (external link)
One other thing; was there much wind?

There was little bit, but nothing too bad IMO -though I would not be surprised if it contributed to the overall blur everywhere!




  
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Lee
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Apr 12, 2010 20:34 |  #19

HappySnapper90 wrote in post #9983017 (external link)
I change my mind, it's an image that hasn't been properly developed - low contrast from probably a foggy/misty setting. I know your "image editing" is not turned on, but I feel you need the help. Here is my fix up with Lightroom applying a proper tone curve and correcting the white balance as well as properly sharpening the image.

Thanks Robert! I appreciate that!
How do you turn on this "image editing?"

Thanks for the help! I appreciate it -I am still learning how to use Lightroom.
Do you mind elaborating a little more on what you did to adjust the tone curves, white balance, and sharpening?




  
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HappySnapper90
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Apr 12, 2010 20:46 |  #20

It's under User CP, then Edit Profile.

Well I can't give you my LR settings because I already deleted the file. I hope you're working with a calibrated monitor, otherwise the colors you see may not be true colors of the image file as well as proper brightness and contrast.

I basically applied a steep tone curve, making an "S" shape. My tone curve settings were "around" highlights +40, brightness +25, darks -20, shadows -40 using a linear tone curve option. Clarity about 45, sharpness radius 1.0 amount 110 or so.

As far as white balance, "auto" rarely does well in my opinion. So for me it's a matter of learning color enough to realize when an image is too blue, or too green, or too "warm" (red). WB was about +25, tint was about -20. I also rotated to correct the horizon line.

Lack of proper contrast will also make a photo seem less sharp.




  
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CosmoKid
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Apr 13, 2010 08:17 |  #21

Do you have any shots from that day not taken at f22?


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Lee
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Apr 13, 2010 11:46 |  #22

Hm, good question -I'll have to check, as I don' t recall off the top of my head. I'll post it if I can find one.




  
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Lee
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Apr 13, 2010 11:47 |  #23

I don't, I just checked :(




  
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argyle
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Apr 13, 2010 17:07 as a reply to  @ Lee's post |  #24

Underexposed, diffraction, in-camera noise reduction.

First off, the picture is underexposed. Even though noise is typically associated with high ISO, underexposure can also cause noise, even at low ISO settings. Secondly, learn how to "expose to the right"...this will ensure that you don't blow out highlights while at the same time retain detail in your shadow areas (and minimize noise). Lightening an underexposed image can also contribute to noise. IMO, in-camera noise reduction should be turned off...deal with noise in PS or DPP or other 3rd party software (Noise Ninja, Neat Image, etc). The important thing, first, is to get the exposure correct. In addition, read up on using hyperfocal distance technique and stay away from extremely small apertures (unless absolutely necessary).


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That_Fox
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Apr 13, 2010 17:30 |  #25

Take a look at this (external link), then click on the blur index graph. The closer it is to the bottom of the graph, the sharper the lens is at that aperture/focal length. At 10mm it appears that your ideal aperture would be ƒ/11, ƒ/22 is uniformly soft. (For the sharpest picture you'll want the value to be 1.5 or lower.)


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Lee
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Apr 13, 2010 21:21 |  #26

Thanks all, you're all super awesome.




  
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Why the poor image quality? Or is it me?
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