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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 30 Apr 2010 (Friday) 08:59
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Tripping individual lights; pack and head system.

 
Savas ­ K
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Apr 30, 2010 08:59 |  #1

I have a chance to practice beyond my strobist work with some studio gear. I have never worked with a pack and head system.

Gear consists of two Profoto Acute2r power packs; 1200 and 2400. I don't recall seeing an On-Off switch per socket. In order to fire one of the heads for metering, do I remove one lamp from the socket and fire the remaining lamp and meter it?

Also, suppose one of the packs is set as the slave. (studio has PW for my camera, one PW on the 1200 and the 2400 has PW built in and it is currently set as the slave.) Also, my meter is antiquated with no PW control. What to do about metering lights from the slave pack? I guess I can do it corded, or have someone press the button to fire while using my meter in standby mode. Help me confirm if this is the case.

Thanks for any clues you can implant in my brain. :)




  
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CosmoKid
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Apr 30, 2010 09:55 |  #2

Can you grab another PW so you have 2 triggers? one on your camera and the other in your hand to fire the lights for metering? i picked up a back-up Cyber Sync trigger and realized I can use it not mounted on camera to fire the lights when metering.

regarding pack and head systems...i can be of no help. my friend uses speedotron and i had a heck of a time figuring out how to set them up.


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dmward
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Apr 30, 2010 11:53 |  #3

Considering the cost of the packs and heads, I suggest you get some specific instruction from the owner regarding how they want you to use the kit.

There is probably also on-line documentation at the manufacturer's website that will help you understand how they work.

Sounds like you will either have to take PW off camera to use as trigger for metering or get another one.


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Savas ­ K
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Apr 30, 2010 15:00 |  #4

Thanks, david. I got the doc yesterday and studied it and operation is fairly easy. It does not cover tripping one light at a time. I didn't want to buy a lone pocket wizard at this point as I'm only practicing with the gear, and can probably fire the lamps with my ancient meter either wired or on standby mode.

Still, is yanking out cables and leaving one in the only way to fire one light at a time?




  
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Dream ­ Merchant
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Apr 30, 2010 15:41 as a reply to  @ Savas K's post |  #5

From what I can gather, you'll need a PW transmitter/transceive​r to control that baby. I may be wrong though ...

Here's an excerpt from a description I found from the Adorama site:

This generator is based on the Profoto Acute2 and is identical in every way with one exception: the Profoto Acute2R has a PocketWizard Digital Radio receiver built-in, to give the photographer *Digital Wireless Freedom.

Fully compatible with all 32 channels used by PocketWizard, the Profoto Acute2R eliminates the need for a synch cord and separate PocketWizard receiver. With an effective range of up to 300 feet, the Profoto Acute2R can be fired using any model PocketWizard transmitter or transceiver. You can also use the Sekonic L-358 or L-608 light meters, with the PocketWizard transmitter enabled, to fire the generator.

In order to maintain the simple elegance that Profoto is known for, the Profoto Acute2R has no buttons or switches to set when selecting a channel. Simply turn the generator on and the system is put into "Learn" mode. The first PocketWizard signal it receives, it remembers. To reset, just turn the generator off, then on again and repeat. This simple approach eliminates any learning curve for the photographer. The Acute2Rs are available in both 1200 and 2400 w/s versions. (The original Acute2 units without the PocketWizard receivers remain as part of the Acute product line.) The Profoto Acute 2 and Acute2R packs offer fast recycling times and very short flash durations. As with the Profoto Acute 2, the Acute2R also includes a fully proportional modeling light and a white-light slave that can be turned off.


Editing welcome :D

  
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Savas ­ K
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Apr 30, 2010 21:33 |  #6

Thanks. I still wonder, though, is yanking out lamp head cables from pack sockets and leaving one in the only way to fire one light at a time?




  
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PacAce
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Apr 30, 2010 22:34 |  #7

Savas K wrote in post #10098990 (external link)
Thanks. I still wonder, though, is yanking out lamp head cables from pack sockets and leaving one in the only way to fire one light at a time?

Leave the heads connected and use your body and/or your hand to shield the meter if you only want to meter one head. Depending on how you have the energy distributing switch set, removing one head of a two-head setup can change the actual output of the remaining head which is not what you want.


...Leo

  
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Savas ­ K
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May 01, 2010 04:22 |  #8

Thanks Leo. I was wondering about that. So removal of a cable changes distribution, regardless how it is set by the switches on the pack. I guess that I can augment the reading accuracy by using the flat diffuser on the meter rather than the dome diffuser.

Reason for asking was that instructional videos of photographers setting their lights, who happened to be using monolights, switched off the ones they did not want to fire when metering.




  
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PacAce
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May 01, 2010 09:30 |  #9

Savas K wrote in post #10100318 (external link)
Thanks Leo. I was wondering about that. So removal of a cable changes distribution, regardless how it is set by the switches on the pack. I guess that I can augment the reading accuracy by using the flat diffuser on the meter rather than the dome diffuser.

Reason for asking was that instructional videos of photographers setting their lights, who happened to be using monolights, switched off the ones they did not want to fire when metering.

Not exactly. If the energy distribution switch is set to A+B, then, yes, removing a head will change the power output of the remaining head. However, if you set the switch to A<->B, the output of each head is controlled independently of the other. That is why I said it depends on what the energy distribution switch is set to.

When I want to meter my light individually, I do not turn the others off, I just use a different group for each light. Of course, when you have two heads connected to the same pack, you won't have the luxury of assigning each head to a different group and it's a real pain to plug and unplug the heads from the pack, especially if there's a warning in the manual which says to make sure the pack is turned off before plugging and unplugging the heads (doesn't seem to be the case with the Acute2 packs, though, but would still be a pain to plug and unplug the heads). So the next best thing is to just use your body to block off the light from the other head when metering.


...Leo

  
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Savas ­ K
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May 01, 2010 17:35 |  #10

Great info, Leo. Thanks.

Maybe I can place a towel over the modifier that I don't want to illuminate for the meter reading, besides giving it the body block. :)




  
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Tripping individual lights; pack and head system.
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