I have a 7D and 1D3 and feel they each have advantages depending on the precise shooting circumstances. As far as AF performance is concerned I find them to be close enough to equal to not have a preference one way or the other. The big difference is in pixel density and the per pixel IQ that results. The 1D3 has nice big, fat, juicy pixels that produce rich tones and are naturally sharp at the pixel level. It is easy to produce files from the 1D3 that look good even when viewed at 100%.
The 7D, on the other hand, has the potential to pull out a lot more subject detail, but only if the shooting conditions are sympathetic. By sympathetic I mean in good light, permitting low ISO, and from a stable platform such as a tripod, ideally with a good prime lens and a sedentary subject, when neither shake nor blur will be an issue. It only needs the tiniest amount of shake/blur/misfocus/diffraction or noise to neuter the reach advantage, and all you end up with is larger files that may need a bit more work to tweak them for the best possible results.
My 7D is beginning to grow on me, but it needs great skill and technique to get the best from it. If I fail to shoot perfectly then the 7D will expose my failings with ease, failings that the 1D3 might well conceal. I think the bottom line, if you want one, is that if you can fill the frame of the 1D3 then that will give you the best results overall, but if you are focal length limited and needing to crop to APS-C or smaller then the 7D is probably the better choice...... unless you need 1 series build and weatherproofing etc..
If it helps, I have an album of shots taken at the zoo recently with my 7D and 100-400. They are best viewed full screen on a monitor with at least 1920x1200 resolution. Anything less will mean the website will resize the images, reducing IQ. There are plenty of examples of BIF against tricky backgrounds and backlighting. I've applied minimal PP (no sharpening and no NR) and only a rough global adjustment to white balance. I've tweaked levels a little to deal with lost contrast when shooting through glass, but that's about it. They are also uncropped, so you can get a feel for how the AF performed with subjects off centre.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk …hkey=Gv1sRgCO-zsJ3YrIXnfQ
In my defence of the first orangutan picture I should say that it was shot at 6400 ISO through thick, tinted, angled glass.
p.s. It's worth noting that the 5D2 actually has a little more reach than the 1D3, and if you can fill the frame and the AF and frame rate are good enough for your needs, which in my experience they often are, then it too can make a very fine wildlife camera.