Expodisc

Whats the difference between the Neutral and Portrait versions of this?

jeromego wrote in post #10129152
Whats the difference between the Neutral and Portrait versions of this?

The Portrait model has an orange strap.

http://www.expoimaging​.com …eywords=ExpoDis​c_Portrait

The portrait version, gives a slightly warmer white balance.

The BaLens is also another option http://www.balens.ca/, it comes with neutral and portrait domes

Thanks guys...so which one do you guys prefer using?

I find it useless. Spent $80 on mine a year ago. no longer use it. just shoot raw, adjust the temp and WB in post.

Michael Cheddar wrote in post #10129912
I find it useless. Spent $80 on mine a year ago. no longer use it. just shoot raw, adjust the temp and WB in post.

Agreed. Just shoot RAW and dont worry about it. Besides, sometimes we dont even light WB to be perfect, sometimes an image can look better a little warmer or cooler. Best to just play with it in post processing anyway.

jeromego wrote in post #10129532
Thanks guys...so which one do you guys prefer using?

I went with the BaLens, use it as a normal lens cap as well. The only issue is you need to be aware of that you have set custom WB when you move to other lighting conditions. You could save a bit of money, if you shoot raw and adjust in PP as other posters have suggested.

Maybe Melitta.

http://www.ppmag.com …arison-white-balan-1.html

jeromego wrote in post #10129532
Thanks guys...so which one do you guys prefer using?

I have one, the Neutral version, because I don't do studio/portrait work. It's great. The white balance is perfect and does not require any correction in post. I've found it is especially useful in mixed lighting situations (e.g., mix of tungsten light and sunlight).

A neutral gray card, especially one that is also the correct tone of gray for use in metering, is a FAR superior solution to any of the devices that fit on a lens like a filter in my opinion. A gray card is also far less expensive than the ExpoDisc.

Rather than setting up Custom White Balance, which I find cumbersome and time consuming, I usually place a color reference card in the scene for a test shot. Since I always shoot in RAW, this method works quite well and quite efficiently. When converting the RAW images, I do the test shot first and use an "eyedropper" tool on the test card in the scene. That produces color temperature and tint numbers that can be transferred into the rest of the series in a single batch conversion.

I bought the 9 dollar mennon white balance cap....I never use it.

Shoot in raw.

This thing is not cheap. Like all other said, just shoot raw or use gray card, and save the money for a nice Circular polarizer or ND filter. I had it long time ago and never fould it's very helpful.

I use the WhiBal card from B&H.

Question about the Whibal. the old one used to have 4 cards. The new ones only have one that I can see. No more setting the white and black point with it eh?

Disclaimer. I don't even know what setting white and black point means ... yet. Just read it on the luminous landscape site

I have the neutral filter.
I love it. I used it for these church shots.
http://www.viva-photography.com …963_FjPZ8#82100​4397_GZiJq