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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 11 May 2010 (Tuesday) 13:42
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T2i blows my 40D out of the water....

 
David ­ Ransley
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May 12, 2010 12:12 |  #31

dpbdc wrote in post #10162072 (external link)
We were both shooting our Canon 10-22 lenses at night, getting some long bulb exposures of starfields and such.

Here's the thing. All his shots at the same settings blew mine away. Better color, better contrast, sharper. I just had my sensor cleaned, so I know that has nothing to do with it. I think my 10-22 might be off, I need to do a focus test this week. But damn. I didn't expect that big of a difference. Almost everything I shot was fuzzy. THe shots that turned out just didn't seem as nice. And to top it off, on a 20-30 min bulb exposure to get good star motion, his processed in 10 seconds. Mine was working for almost 20 MINUTES.

Obviously, I need to get my camera looked at, it has 9000 actuations. I will definitely be checking my lenses. But that 7D is starting to look really good.....


That 7D is looking better and better....

It also sounds as if you had Auto Focus doing the work. In the 40D you need to attach to a laptop, focus with live view (if you do stars).

The noise reduction you had on will affect the quality and even soften the picture. This will also account for the long transfer durations as explained by someone else.

For stars, the 40D optimum ISO = 800


DRH

  
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Illumined
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May 12, 2010 12:51 as a reply to  @ David Ransley's post |  #32

The T2i is a stellar performer at a bargain price. However, like someone has already stated: LENR (Long Exposure Noise Reduction) will soften your images in an effort to rid it off accumulated noise in-camera. That being said, shooting stars in the night sky could most definitely result in a softer overall image and chopped IQ. One thing that is certain though is that it was the culprit for your camera's processing time.

Don't let one bad shooting session have you looking to swap out bodies. You're still learning the full functionality of your camera (you may not know it, but it couldn't be more true if you haven't been tinkering around with cF settings to learn just how much -- if at all -- the given settings hamper your performance). Don't let yourself get too stressed out over it.

Shoot with him again without LENR at similar settings. I'm sure it is as simple as that.


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Amamba
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May 12, 2010 13:07 |  #33

This is surprising. I haven't put my T2i to a real high-ISO torture test yet, but I'd say at low ISO the photos from my old XTi are not noticeably softer. So I would think that 40D would be similar in sharpness, if not in noise.


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CanonGarcon
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May 12, 2010 13:18 |  #34
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The T2i has technology that is 2 to 3 year newer than the 40D. Of course it should perform better in some areas.

The Rebels always get updated technology from the X0D line.
40D to XSi
50D to T1i
7D (aka 60D) to T2i.

The 7D is two generations newer than the 40D. Canon past a lot of it's features and technology down to it's little brother. Of course it will outperform an older midrange model.




  
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asty80
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May 12, 2010 16:56 |  #35

pictures?


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May 12, 2010 17:18 |  #36

Luminodio wrote in post #10168106 (external link)
The T2i is a stellar performer at a bargain price. However, like someone has already stated: LENR (Long Exposure Noise Reduction) will soften your images in an effort to rid it off accumulated noise in-camera.

Long exposure noise reduction is not the same thing as normal noise reduction. Normal noise reduction removes noise by reducing high contrast, since noise is characterized by just that. Unfortunately, parts of the image which conveys the appearance of sharpness also relies on high contrast, which is why that kind of noise reduction reduces sharpness.

Butlong exposure noise reduction is a subtraction of a black image, which works in a very different way. It does not reduce contrasts per see, but instead removes noise accumulated by the sensor during another exposure, of equal length, but with the shutter closed.


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cito17
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May 12, 2010 18:16 |  #37

Different picture styles, perhaps?


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May 12, 2010 18:54 |  #38

apersson850 wrote in post #10169774 (external link)
Long exposure noise reduction is not the same thing as normal noise reduction.

Yeah I've found the cameras own noise reduction really good actually. It takes a while of course (twice the normal exposure time) but I don't see how you can do this in post unless you're doing your own dark frame subtraction anyway.




  
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David ­ Ransley
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May 13, 2010 04:21 |  #39

phreeky wrote in post #10170224 (external link)
Yeah I've found the cameras own noise reduction really good actually. It takes a while of course (twice the normal exposure time) but I don't see how you can do this in post unless you're doing your own dark frame subtraction anyway.

Hence the reason for not using long exposure noise reduction for stars. I am learning still, but dark frames and dark flat frames are used in the process. You need special software though - something like PixInsight.

I switch both off. Noise Reduction and Long Exposure Noise reduction, for stars. Long exposures also start to trail, and a wide field shot of the stars max out at 20 seconds and F2.8. Depending on focal length you may need to go F2.8, ISO 800 and 5 to 8 seconds for 60mm. In DPP you can then play with the RAW file and modify the mid tones. Stars will pop out.


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May 13, 2010 06:58 |  #40

I've read on other photographers and how they photograph the stars and skies at night, there's an article on the current issue of Popular Photography that shows the kind of rig used for this, can't be cheap, you mount your DSLR on it a it compensates for the rotation of the earth so you don't get the star trails.

Also stacks 5 min long exposures for 1 hour, no easy thing to do and achieve.


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ChrisGorabPhotography
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May 13, 2010 07:06 |  #41

cito17 wrote in post #10170055 (external link)
Different picture styles, perhaps?

I agree with this. Forget about the noise reduction... why is no one questioning the in-camera settings? Shoot both at RAW and look at them without any other in-camera jpeg settings applied (contrast, sharpness, saturation, etc). Make it an apples to apples comparison. Don't use the jpegs from the camera.


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spiralspirit
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May 13, 2010 10:14 |  #42

enrigonz wrote in post #10172842 (external link)
I've read on other photographers and how they photograph the stars and skies at night, there's an article on the current issue of Popular Photography that shows the kind of rig used for this, can't be cheap, you mount your DSLR on it a it compensates for the rotation of the earth so you don't get the star trails.

Also stacks 5 min long exposures for 1 hour, no easy thing to do and achieve.

the equipment you're talking about is called an equatorial mount.


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May 13, 2010 12:08 |  #43

scorpio_e wrote in post #10167860 (external link)
Yep I am on board... This new rebel kicks ass:)

I also agree, the new Rebel is awesome, but I could never go back to that user interface. Image quality/performance be dammed, I can't live without that shoulder LCD and those 4 magic buttons on top.


If you must know...

  
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enrigonz
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May 13, 2010 12:15 |  #44

spiralspirit wrote in post #10173644 (external link)
the equipment you're talking about is called an equatorial mount.

thank you! looks very interesting, something I would look into if I was involved with that kind of photography...


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enrigonz
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May 13, 2010 12:16 |  #45

Jethro790 wrote in post #10174307 (external link)
I also agree, the new Rebel is awesome, but I could never go back to that user interface. Image quality/performance be dammed, I can't live without that shoulder LCD and those 4 magic buttons on top.

understandable, it's all about what you get use to...


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T2i blows my 40D out of the water....
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