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Thread started 16 May 2010 (Sunday) 15:30
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Panning bicycling shots - need some help

 
Stefan ­ A
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May 16, 2010 15:30 |  #1

I admit that I don't go out everyday and do this kind of shooting, but I have done it enough that I was surprised by the poor results that I got. The shots below are among the best I got this morning and they are pretty poor. Will you please help me and give some suggestions? I was using either my Tokina 11-16 or my Canon 17-55. Shots with the Tokina were awful and I only saved maybe 5 of them. Some shots are handheld and some are with a monopod. With some of the shots the focus is different within the same subject - like the head is somewhat clear, but the rest isn't. I must have taken 500 shots or so and the keeper rate was like 1%. Exif is included.

IMAGE: http://santwarg.zenfolio.com/img/v14/p458536034-4.jpg

IMAGE: http://santwarg.zenfolio.com/img/v17/p76219180-4.jpg

IMAGE: http://santwarg.zenfolio.com/img/v17/p434429378-4.jpg

IMAGE: http://santwarg.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p172799746-4.jpg

IMAGE: http://santwarg.zenfolio.com/img/v15/p269294765-4.jpg

IMAGE: http://santwarg.zenfolio.com/img/v17/p144587207-4.jpg

80D, Canon 17-55mm f/2.8, Canon 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6, Canon 50mm f/1.4, Canon 70-200mm F/4L,Tokina 11-16 f/2.8, Canon 100-400 f/4.5-5.6, Kenko 1.4 TC, Canon 580 exII Speedlite, ebay wireless trigger, Genesis 3 light kit
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brandon9585
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May 16, 2010 15:38 |  #2

It looks like your shutter speed is low enough to capture the body motion during the exposure. That's why the body is blurry and the legs mostly. It looks like your panning technique is decent, but it's the shaking of the cyclists that is killing it for you. I don't have experience in this sport so I can't recommend any better settings other than raising your shutter speed.


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Stefan ­ A
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"The D is supposed to be where the S is!"
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May 16, 2010 15:50 |  #3

Thanks brandon. They were not going all that fast and I worry that a faster shutter speed won't blur the background.

I should add that I was using AI Servo and hi speed burst mode.


80D, Canon 17-55mm f/2.8, Canon 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6, Canon 50mm f/1.4, Canon 70-200mm F/4L,Tokina 11-16 f/2.8, Canon 100-400 f/4.5-5.6, Kenko 1.4 TC, Canon 580 exII Speedlite, ebay wireless trigger, Genesis 3 light kit
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DC ­ Fan
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May 16, 2010 17:14 |  #4

Stefan A wrote in post #10191346 (external link)
Will you please help me and give some suggestions?

Part of the trick is to match shutter speed to the target's pace across the frame. Another part is to develop a smooth panning motion: it doesn't hurt to move the entire upper body, swiveling hips and waist. Examples:

IMAGE NOT FOUND
Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE


Focal Length: 80.0mm
Aperture: f/14.0
Exposure Time: 0.025 s (1/40)
ISO equiv: 400
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto)

IMAGE NOT FOUND
Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE


Focal Length: 50.0mm
Aperture: f/16.0
Exposure Time: 0.010 s (1/100)
ISO equiv: 200
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto)

As shown above, 1/40-1/100 can work, depending on location. Those images also show a prejudice toward tight framing and long focal lengths.

For panning images, it typically takes a lot of frames to get a few good ones, because of the unpredictability of getting a useful picture from the slow shutter speed. It's best to use the camera's continuous shooting mode as you track the target, then select the best frame.



  
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xHassassin
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May 16, 2010 18:20 |  #5

It seems that there's a very shallow DOF... Increase your aperture.

Your panning technique seems to be really good though.



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Stefan ­ A
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May 16, 2010 19:52 |  #6

My aperture on those shots are f/14 or smaller. A few went to f/22.


80D, Canon 17-55mm f/2.8, Canon 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6, Canon 50mm f/1.4, Canon 70-200mm F/4L,Tokina 11-16 f/2.8, Canon 100-400 f/4.5-5.6, Kenko 1.4 TC, Canon 580 exII Speedlite, ebay wireless trigger, Genesis 3 light kit
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xHassassin
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May 16, 2010 20:49 |  #7

Hmm, weird, probably just your shutter speed then, 1/20 is a bit slow.



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Biffbradford
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May 16, 2010 21:17 |  #8

1/20th is slower than you need. I shoot lots of cycling and got lots of practice today. 1/125th will just get the wheels in blur and I never got below 1/50th, usually staying between 1/100th and 1/60th. I have ton of examples which I will post in a few days.


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Stefan ­ A
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"The D is supposed to be where the S is!"
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May 16, 2010 22:07 |  #9

Yeah - I guess I will have to try again one day with faster shutter speed.

Stefan


80D, Canon 17-55mm f/2.8, Canon 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6, Canon 50mm f/1.4, Canon 70-200mm F/4L,Tokina 11-16 f/2.8, Canon 100-400 f/4.5-5.6, Kenko 1.4 TC, Canon 580 exII Speedlite, ebay wireless trigger, Genesis 3 light kit
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Semmonka
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May 16, 2010 23:54 |  #10

Biffbradford wrote in post #10192882 (external link)
1/20th is slower than you need. I shoot lots of cycling and got lots of practice today. 1/125th will just get the wheels in blur and I never got below 1/50th, usually staying between 1/100th and 1/60th.

I totally agree
Start with 1/100-1/125 and when you get sharp shots, go bit slower and practice again as long as you get sharp shots. IMO there is no need to go under 1/50-1/60 unless you want to experiment with crazy slow speeds. Keeper rate is much lower but when it works, you´ll be a happy man :D


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Panning bicycling shots - need some help
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