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Thread started 17 May 2010 (Monday) 12:16
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Shutter Speed - the "math" 1/(FL x 1.6)

 
gjl711
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May 17, 2010 19:12 |  #16

number six wrote in post #10198593 (external link)
I have a 20 X 30 inch print over my desk, taken handheld with my 6.3 MP 300D. I would never have tried to print a 35mm film shot that large - in fact I think the largest print I ever did with film was 11 X 14.

Why? 35mm film did quite well printed large. Of course good glass and expert processing helped.


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May 17, 2010 19:18 |  #17

gjl711 wrote in post #10198752 (external link)
Why? 35mm film did quite well printed large. Of course good glass and expert processing helped.

I agree with the above. I made several copies (which I sold) of one B&W shot I did back in the late 1960s that were a little over three feet wide - and that was a bit of a crop from the negative. They were quite nice to view in a living room.

The shot was done on good old Plus-X film and developed in Microdol X (1:3).


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May 17, 2010 19:37 |  #18

krb wrote in post #10198724 (external link)
Perhaps you've misread some posts? 1.6x is a guideline for the minimum shutter speed when shooting hand held.

But what I'm saying is that with higher density sensors, that rule doesn't really work.


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May 17, 2010 19:39 |  #19

mikekelley wrote in post #10198936 (external link)
But what I'm saying is that with higher density sensors, that rule doesn't really work.

Wasn't this hashed thoroughly enough in the other thread?


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May 17, 2010 19:40 |  #20

:lol: yes!


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May 17, 2010 19:42 |  #21

mikekelley wrote in post #10198962 (external link)
:lol: yes!

:lol:


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May 18, 2010 12:07 |  #22

Shutter speed is to me one of those choices you have to make in less-than-optimal conditions, which is where I often find myself shooting, where there are tradeoffs whichever way you go. I've found myself shooting at way less than the 1/FLxwhatever plenty of times, and when I do I just need to concentrate on technique, which includes shooting short bursts of whatever to get one or two shots with a better chance of having less camera shake.

And, there are times when you want a relatively slow shutter speed, such as when you are panning a moving object and want to show motion blur or you are wanting to show prop spin/blur on a plane. Learning to handle various conditions with the right technique is a good thing! Not that the "rule of thumb" has not use, sure, I like to use a fast shutter speed when I can, but I also like to keep my options open and hopefully my skills up to speed.


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May 18, 2010 18:05 |  #23

number six wrote in post #10198593 (external link)
Well, this "rule" is for minimum handheld shutter speeds. Personally, I don't think it's fast enough as a minimum and I try for 2X if I can. Not because I'm particularly shaky, but because we tend to print much larger than we used to in the 35mm film days, where that "rule" originated.

This is a prudent thing to do, especially if one has the insight that the 1/FL rule applied originally to medium format film cameras and was errantly NOT adjusted (it should have been!) for the 'miniature format', 135. So the safety factor was eaten up in trying apply the same formula to the smaller 35mm format.


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May 25, 2010 13:08 |  #24

I have a follow-up question on this "rule of thumb" --- If I put a Teleconvertor of length 1.4 on my 30D, would I normally multiply the previous "rule" by yet another 1.4 ? e.g., a FL of 100mm = 1/((100*1.6)*1.4) = 224 minimum SS ????


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May 25, 2010 13:13 |  #25

Yep. The teleconverter makes the combination into a 140 mm lens.

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May 25, 2010 13:13 |  #26

Thank you .. that's what I figured based on this discussion.


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May 25, 2010 13:17 |  #27

Just think of it as the inverse of the effective field of view. The math is the same but somehow seems less math like. :)


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Shutter Speed - the "math" 1/(FL x 1.6)
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