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FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon Digital Cameras 
Thread started 25 May 2010 (Tuesday) 04:06
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pfpeter
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May 25, 2010 04:06 |  #1

Can someone please explain what this feature does? And does it have any effect on RAW images?


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Peter
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TTk
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May 25, 2010 04:09 |  #2

Read this it might help you.;)

http://forums.dpreview​.com …rum=1019&messag​e=33213551 (external link)

or here>> https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=419163


Terry.:cool:
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foxbat
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May 25, 2010 06:43 |  #3

pfpeter wrote in post #10241330 (external link)
Can someone please explain what this feature does? And does it have any effect on RAW images?

It's a non-linear software amplification stage, i.e. an S-curve, that's given room to work by deliberately under-amplifying by 1 full ISO stop in the camera.

It only works with Canon's DPP. If you don't use DPP, switch it off.

It's also a software trick - there is no technological step forward being made here and I deeply mistrust software that makes irreversible changes to image data without my control so I switch it off.


Andy Brown; South-east England. Canon, Sigma, Leica, Zeiss all on Canon DSLRs. My hacking blog (external link).

  
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apersson850
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May 25, 2010 06:51 |  #4

foxbat wrote in post #10241693 (external link)
It's also a software trick -

That, on the other hand, applies to all post-processing.


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egordon99
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May 25, 2010 06:56 as a reply to  @ apersson850's post |  #5

You can do the same thing yourself by slightly overexposing, shooting raw, and then pulling back the exposure in Lightroom and adding a bit of fill light. That's basically what HTP is doing, but with much less control (and a HUGE hit in your shot-to-shot time)




  
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pfpeter
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May 25, 2010 07:57 |  #6

Thank you all for answering the question.


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Peter
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pfpeter
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May 25, 2010 07:58 |  #7

egordon99 wrote in post #10241727 (external link)
You can do the same thing yourself by slightly overexposing, shooting raw, and then pulling back the exposure in Lightroom and adding a bit of fill light. That's basically what HTP is doing, but with much less control (and a HUGE hit in your shot-to-shot time)

Thank you to you too. What you wrote is exactly what I'm doing and always have done.


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Peter
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BigBlueDodge
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May 25, 2010 20:44 |  #8

egordon99 wrote in post #10241727 (external link)
You can do the same thing yourself by slightly overexposing, shooting raw, and then pulling back the exposure in Lightroom and adding a bit of fill light. That's basically what HTP is doing, but with much less control (and a HUGE hit in your shot-to-shot time)

That is actually wrong. If you want to do what HTP does, you will need to

1. Shoot at an ISO one stop less than your desired ISO (for example, if you want to shoot at ISO 400, you will need to set your camera to ISO 200)

2. You will need to under expose by 1 stop (this raises the shutter speed to the same value had you shot at the original ISO)

3. You need to raise your exposure 1 stop in post processing, and apply a tone curve that pulls back the highlight region.

When you shoot with HTP mode, Canon warns you that you will likely see increased noise in your shadows. This is because the camera really underexposes at an ISO one stop below your indicated value, and raises the exposure back up in camera. Any time you raise an underexposed image, you will bring out noise in the shadows.

pfpeter wrote:
And does it have any effect on RAW images?

HTP does have an effect on RAW. When you have HTP turned on, AND you shoot in Raw, the camera will tag the RAW file as being shot with HTP. DPP will then apply the HTP algorithm to your RAW image when you convert it.

HTP does in fact work. Although I've found that the results are often very subtle, and not significant enough to stand out without carefully looking. If you are shooting at low ISO, I wouldn't be concerned at all about shooting with HTP enabled. However if you are shooting at higher ISO (800 and above), I'd probably turn it off, due to the increased shadwo noise.


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