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Thread started 29 May 2010 (Saturday) 20:05
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35L Not so sharp Wide open? Take a look

 
Trixster!
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May 30, 2010 04:58 |  #16

They make focusing much more precise but darken the viewfinder somewhat at larger f numbers.


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argyle
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May 30, 2010 06:29 |  #17

stargazer78 wrote in post #10269789 (external link)
Unless you have a Eg-S or split-prism focusing screen, it's unlikely you'd be able to focus an f/1.4 lens manually through the viewfinder. The stock focusing screen on a 5D2 isn't capable of representing accurate DoF for any aperture larger than f2.8.

Also, when you manually focus through Live View, make sure you're doing it at x10 magnification level. My 35L is ridiculously sharp in the center @ f1.4.

He shouldn't have any problem manually focusing with the stock screen. The viewfinder on the 5D2 is plenty big enough. Before switching screens, I had no problems focusing 1.2 and 1.4 manual lenses on my 5D and now 5D2.

JayStar86 wrote in post #10270004 (external link)
whats the deal with these eg-s focussing screens i keep hearing about. are they really that much better?

never really looked into them much before.

The Eg-S is a precision matte screen that makes manual focusing much easier. Its just a basic matte screen without any focusing aids (split prism, grid lines , etc). The majority of my shooting is done with older manual lenses from Zeiss, Oly, Leica, and now, lately, some Mamiya medium format manual lenses. The best thing about the screen is that you're able to focus anywhere on the screen at any time...this means that you no longer need to focus/recompose depending on where you're subject is or change focus points for that matter.

Canon doesn't recommend using the screen with lenses that are slower than 2.8 since the screen tends to darken the VF. However, I don't find this to be much of a problem (or a burden) at all. In good light, I can easily get manual focus with the lens manually stopped down to f/8. In not so good light, it could be an issue.


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Froggeh
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May 30, 2010 08:31 |  #18

In not so good light, it is an issue on the 40D/50D. The 5D/5DII I'm not sure about.


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argyle
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May 30, 2010 08:42 |  #19

Froggeh wrote in post #10270550 (external link)
In not so good light, it is an issue on the 40D/50D. The 5D/5DII I'm not sure about.

But the OP has the 5D2. Of course it'll be an issue on the xxD bodies due to the smaller VF. There are other alternatives (Katzeye, for example) for the xxD cameras.


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Brennan.M
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May 30, 2010 08:47 |  #20

Katzeye?


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Jam.radonc
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May 30, 2010 10:09 |  #21

TorqueJunkie wrote in post #10270620 (external link)
Katzeye?

http://www.katzeyeopti​cs.com/ (external link)

I use it on my 450D and works really well for MF lenses. On a 5DII however with a larger VF I think the katzeyes are probably not needed.


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denoir
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May 30, 2010 11:03 |  #22

yogestee wrote in post #10269407 (external link)
I disagree..

Any lens isn't at its best wide open,,stop them down a stop or two and things heat up..
The argument is what is acceptably sharp for you..
Canon EF50mm f/1.4

Yep, the softness of my Canon 50/1.4 was one of the reasons I got the Zeiss 50/2 MP. It's a stop slower but sharp wide open (The Zeiss 50/1.4 P is as soft as the Canon).

Softness doesn't necessarily equal blurriness. Mostly it's a loss of detail - as shown by your crop.


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Cheever
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May 30, 2010 11:08 |  #23

denoir wrote in post #10269242 (external link)
The 35L is soft wide open. There are basically no fast primes that are really sharp at f/1.4. It is however difficult to judge from that shot if it falls under normal softness or if there is actually something wrong.

I think you need to quit smoking whatever it is that you're smoking b/c the 35L is smoking sharp on my 5d2.

To the OP, you have a bad copy if it's not user error.


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stargazer78
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May 30, 2010 12:04 |  #24

argyle wrote in post #10270279 (external link)
Before switching screens, I had no problems focusing 1.2 and 1.4 manual lenses on my 5D and now 5D2.

There are only two possible explanations for that. Either:

  • Your exposures were made with the lens stopped down, or
  • You have very low standards for what qualifies as "in-focus"



argyle wrote in post #10270279 (external link)
He shouldn't have any problem manually focusing with the stock screen. The viewfinder on the 5D2 is plenty big enough.

Viewfinder size has nothing to do with it. The issue is the inability of the stock focusing screen to distinguish between the DoF of a f2.5 aperture and a f1.4 aperture. That's not an opinion; that's a fact. Anyone using a stock focusing screen can easily verify this.

Using an f1.4 lens, choose an aperture of f2.5 in M or Av mode. Peak into the viewfinder and press the DoF preview button. First thing they'll notice is that there's absolutely no difference in the viewfinder as they press and depress the button. The aperture blades are closing down, but there's no visisble effect in the viewfinder. Simply put: the stock focusing screen is literally incapable of showing any DoF shallower than f2.5.

It's impossible to manually focus an f1.4 lens with any consistent precision when your viewfinder can't see anything shallower than f2.5. You end up eyeballing the focus without visual feedback... relying mostly on guesstimation instead.




  
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JayStar86
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May 30, 2010 13:23 |  #25

argyle wrote in post #10270279 (external link)
He shouldn't have any problem manually focusing with the stock screen. The viewfinder on the 5D2 is plenty big enough. Before switching screens, I had no problems focusing 1.2 and 1.4 manual lenses on my 5D and now 5D2.

The Eg-S is a precision matte screen that makes manual focusing much easier. Its just a basic matte screen without any focusing aids (split prism, grid lines , etc). The majority of my shooting is done with older manual lenses from Zeiss, Oly, Leica, and now, lately, some Mamiya medium format manual lenses. The best thing about the screen is that you're able to focus anywhere on the screen at any time...this means that you no longer need to focus/recompose depending on where you're subject is or change focus points for that matter.

Canon doesn't recommend using the screen with lenses that are slower than 2.8 since the screen tends to darken the VF. However, I don't find this to be much of a problem (or a burden) at all. In good light, I can easily get manual focus with the lens manually stopped down to f/8. In not so good light, it could be an issue.

^^^^ interesting. thanks for the explanation. So for us AF folks that dont use MF that much are they all that worth having even we own fast glass like F/1.4?

And i just keep seeing a variety of them for the 5D2's and like only 1 for the 5Dc... is that right?


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denoir
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May 30, 2010 15:57 |  #26

Cheever wrote in post #10271147 (external link)
I think you need to quit smoking whatever it is that you're smoking b/c the 35L is smoking sharp on my 5d2. .

Congratulations, you must be the first in the world to have a prime that is sharp at f/1.4. The 35L becomes center sharp at f/2.8 (external link) and corner sharp at f/5.6 (external link). Not that it's a bad lens - on the contrary it's one of Canon's finest. Softness wide open is something that you'll get with any fast prime.


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swolfcg
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May 30, 2010 18:55 |  #27

Jam.radonc wrote in post #10270923 (external link)
http://www.katzeyeopti​cs.com/ (external link)

I use it on my 450D and works really well for MF lenses. On a 5DII however with a larger VF I think the katzeyes are probably not needed.

Katz Optics doesn't make focus screens for canon FF. I had to look elsewhere when finding a Focus Screen for the 5D. I think the best option for MF focusing is the Ee-S or brightscreen's version. I think all they do is brighten/treat a $30 Ee-S screen and add grids for additional $50. Lots of MF users seem to like the plain $30 Ee-S (Overall Matte) Screen.


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DreamState
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May 30, 2010 19:25 |  #28

stargazer78 wrote in post #10269520 (external link)
Your 35L sample is not sharp because it is clearly out of focus. Try calibrating it through the micro adjustment feature of your 5D2. If it doesn't work, send it to Canon.

If you want to determine how sharp you lens really is, then manually focus it through live view.

how do you micro adjust ?




  
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Andrushka
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May 30, 2010 19:35 |  #29
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who cares?? the dog shot is AWESOME!! ;-)a


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bexamous
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May 31, 2010 02:21 |  #30

denoir wrote in post #10272318 (external link)
Congratulations, you must be the first in the world to have a prime that is sharp at f/1.4. The 35L becomes center sharp at f/2.8 (external link) and corner sharp at f/5.6 (external link). Not that it's a bad lens - on the contrary it's one of Canon's finest. Softness wide open is something that you'll get with any fast prime.

35L becomes more than just sharp at f/2.8 in the center. Looking at photozone.de's reviews, not one other lens tested is able to best the 35L at f/2.8 in [CENTER] sharpness, at any aperture. Saying it only becomes sharp at f/2.8 is ridiculous, using that to define 'sharp' means no other Canon lens is sharp at anything :P.

Peak center sharpness is at f/2.8, but even f/1.4 is sharp.




  
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35L Not so sharp Wide open? Take a look
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