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FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon G-series Digital Cameras 
Thread started 02 Jun 2010 (Wednesday) 19:03
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G11 came in today, where can I learn how to shoot in manual?

 
Eric ­ Astin
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Jun 02, 2010 19:03 |  #1

Playing with it a little, but it's somewhat intimidating.

I looked, no stickies for learning manual shooting. Can someone point me in the right direction? This manual thing is greek to me :oops:




  
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Gary ­ W. ­ Graley
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Jun 02, 2010 19:08 |  #2

I use Manual the most, as you get what you see kind of thing,
You hit the metering button, the one above and to the right of the wheel
to change from Aperture f-stops to Shutter speeds and just dial in
until you see what you like.
Also I use the 2 second timer a lot as well to help prevent any motion blur
from pressing the shutter button, of course for things not moving ;)
Other than that, not sure what else you'd need to know, but it is handy to be
able to view what it will appear like, or at least close to it.

G2


5D Mark ii, 17-40L, 70-300L, 100L, Tamron 28-75 f2.8, S100

Umm..He's Sick, My best friend's sister's boyfriend's brother's girlfriend heard from this guy who knows this kid who's going with a girl who saw Ferris pass-out at 31 Flavors last night. I guess it's pretty serious……

  
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tmwag
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Jun 02, 2010 19:50 |  #3

Eric Astin wrote in post #10291598 (external link)
I looked, no stickies for learning manual shooting.

Manual shooting requires a lot of trial and error on your own to really learn proper exposure and what works best for you. Aquire some good books as well.




  
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Jun 02, 2010 20:14 as a reply to  @ tmwag's post |  #4

This book (external link) taught me a lot!! Dont be affraid to just get out and take pics of "whatever"!! Thats the beauty of digital, no cost of film!!


_______________
Taking pics, and peeping pixels!

  
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afkenner
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Jun 02, 2010 21:56 |  #5

Eric Astin wrote in post #10291598 (external link)
Can someone point me in the right direction? This manual thing is greek to me

Definitions:
Light: Illumination of the scene you want to photograph.
Exposure: the amount of light captured by the camera's sensor (or film).
Settings: things YOU can control on the camera.
Sensor: the device inside the camera that is sensitive to light and captures the image.

Task:
To produce a desired image given the available light, use the camera's settings to control the exposure.

For now, we'll assume you are NOT going to modify the light. Eventually you will want to learn to do this in a variety of ways (flash, reflectors, diffusers, etc.) but you should be comfortable with basic exposure control before adding light modifiers to the equation.

Settings:
You control exposure with THREE settings: ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed. A change in ANY one of these will change the exposure, but they each play a different role and have different consequences beyond a change in the exposure. Manual exposure means setting each of these yourself instead of letting the camera choose a setting for you (no AUTO mode at all). A basic description of what each setting does:

ISO controls the sensor's sensitivity to light. A large dial on top of the camera is marked with numbers from 80 (least sensitive to light) to 3200 (most sensitive to light).

Aperture (also called f-stop) controls how big the opening in the lens will be when the picture is taken. A bigger opening lets in more light than a smaller opening. To make things confusing, a smaller number ( 2.8 ) is the largest opening (more light gets in) and a larger number (8.0) is the smallest opening (less light gets in).

Shutter Speed controls the amount of time that light will be hitting the sensor. For most shooting, this is expressed in a fraction of a second, like 1/30 or 1/500. A thirtieth of a second is a longer amount of time than a five-hundredth of a second, so more light gets in at 1/30 than at 1/500.

How to USE the settings to control exposure:
NOTE: This is a GENERAL set of instructions. Creativity and artistic control will often break these rules on purpose to achieve a desired effect.

Go to a place with consistent, medium lighting. Outdoors in shade or inside in a well-lit location. Set everything on your camera manually as follows:

ISO: 200
Shutter Speed: 1/60 second
Aperture: f/4.5

Take a picture and look at the results.

  • Too dark? There are THREE ways to lighten the image: higher ISO (400), slower shutter speed (1/50 sec.) or larger aperture (f/4.0)
  • Too bright? There are three ways to darken the image: lower ISO (100), faster shutter speed (1/80 sec.), smaller aperture (f/5.0)


Change JUST ONE setting and take another picture. You should see a SLIGHT improvement in the exposure (lighter or darker). Keep changing the setting until you get a good image. NOW go back to the ORIGINAL settings, and try changing a different setting to get a correct exposure.

This method will yield properly exposed pictures, but so will any of the AUTO modes on the camera. Learning WHICH setting to change in a particular situation is where the mechanics end and the artistry begins. These are the reasons why you WANT to use manual exposure instead of letting the camera decide for you.

Earlier, I mentioned that there are different consequences to changing each element of the "exposure triangle." Here are some consequences that are unrelated to the exposure but have an impact on the images you will capture:

Shutter Speed: Slower shutter speeds mean more sensitivity to camera shake and/or subject movement. It's difficult to get a sharp picture at speeds below 1/30 second if your camera is handheld or if the subject is moving at all. Faster shutter speeds eliminate handheld camera shake, and very fast shutter speeds can freeze subject motion, even very fast motion.

Aperture: Changing the aperture also changes depth of field (DOF), which is a measure of how much of the scene from close up to far away is in sharp focus. A narrow aperture will result in greater DOF (more of the scene is in focus) and a wide aperture will lessen the DOF (only a small range of distance is in focus). This effect is more pronounced when the lens is zoomed toward the telephoto end of the range and less pronounced when at wide angle. Cameras like the G11 do not have a lot of aperture range, and their small sensors tend to increase the DOF in all shots, so this is less of an issue (and less creative opportunity) than it would be with a DSLR and a lens with a greater aperture range. Also, most lenses have a sharpness zone - a range of apertures where they perform best. This varies by lens, but you can assume that most lenses lose a little quality at the edges of the aperture range.

ISO: As you increase sensitivity to light, you also increase "noise" in the image. Noise is a term that refers to unwanted color elements in the image introduced by the image capture process. Noise looks like bits of color and is obvious when looking at the picture at 100% size on your computer screen, but a lot of noise can be visible at much smaller sizes and will detract from the appearance of your image. Therefore, ISO should be set as low as possible (80) for the least noise and cleanest image results. In many shooting situations (like indoors in normal room lighting) you need to set the ISO higher (400 or more) to get an acceptable image, but you will start to notice noise at ISO 400 and it will become really obvious at higher settings.

Conclusion:
If you have read this far, bravo and thank you. This is a long post with a lot of information. For other (better? clearer?) explanations, you can find all of this in other places online by searching for "exposure triangle" or any of the terms above.

As others have responded, there is no substitute for experience. Set your camera to "M" and start shooting. You will have some frustration in the beginning but soon you will find that the mechanics are happening automatically and you are making creative and artistic choices with your manual settings.

Share your results here on POTN for lots of useful feedback.

Enjoy and happy shooting!


Experimenting with: WP Photoblog (external link) | Zenphoto (external link) | Gallery (external link)
Canon 7D, Zooms, Primes, Macro, 580EXII, 430EX, G12, IXUS 75; Tamron 17-50; Sigma 30 f1.4 & EF 530 DG Super; eBay Triggers & DIY lighting paraphernalia.

  
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Eric ­ Astin
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Jun 02, 2010 23:11 |  #6

Thanks for taking the time to post that. I do appreciate it. I was able to lighten and darken pictures through your directions. One question, how do I focus in on a object manually?

Thanks again.




  
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afkenner
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Jun 02, 2010 23:17 |  #7

Press MF (top of the round control button) and use the outer dial to focus.



Experimenting with: WP Photoblog (external link) | Zenphoto (external link) | Gallery (external link)
Canon 7D, Zooms, Primes, Macro, 580EXII, 430EX, G12, IXUS 75; Tamron 17-50; Sigma 30 f1.4 & EF 530 DG Super; eBay Triggers & DIY lighting paraphernalia.

  
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peejayw
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Jun 03, 2010 02:54 as a reply to  @ afkenner's post |  #8

What a simple, concise and easily understood introduction to manual exposure, well done!


Canon 650D | Sigma 18-250mm Macro HSM | Canon 50mm 1.8 | Canon 100mm Macro 2.8 USM | Yongnuo 568 EX

  
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afkenner
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Jun 03, 2010 05:21 |  #9

peejayw wrote in post #10293770 (external link)
What a simple, concise and easily understood introduction to manual exposure, well done!

Thanks! In addition to helping a new photographer, I hoped to explain a complex subject in simple terms and maybe start a sticky post on manual exposure since the OP stated that one wasn't easy to find.



Experimenting with: WP Photoblog (external link) | Zenphoto (external link) | Gallery (external link)
Canon 7D, Zooms, Primes, Macro, 580EXII, 430EX, G12, IXUS 75; Tamron 17-50; Sigma 30 f1.4 & EF 530 DG Super; eBay Triggers & DIY lighting paraphernalia.

  
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objetda
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Jun 03, 2010 09:18 |  #10

As most people have said above, its a matter of getting out there and shooting with a bit of trial and error, learning your way around the camera. I did find this book (external link) handy for glossing over the functions of the camera, and which is best for the end result you want to acheive.


Canon Powershot G11 ~ 550EX II / Raynox DCR-1540 / Raynox M-250 / Nikon WC-E75 / Canon WC-DC58N
Canon 5Dii ~ Zeiss PLANAR T* 85mm f1.4 / Helios 44M f2 / Canon 28mm - 135mm

  
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2mnycars
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Jun 03, 2010 12:58 |  #11

What a delight to find this post.
In the days of film you had to learn technique. Then you started to learn about light. You also had to learn about the "personality" of each film, and the paper you printed on.
Isn't it amazing how Ansul Adams and others did such wonderful work?

A milestone for me was enroling in and taking the Nikon School (I had Pentax Spotmatic gear, all new, then.) They had a simple handout--a small pocket book with so many hints within it. And you were exposed to the work of dynamic professionals for a day and a half. It truly opened my eyes.

A thought (off the wall) check out youtube and search for videos explainng manual focus and exposure with your camera.

Thanks for your explanation above. Excellent! I bought the Time-Life series back then. And their book, "The Camera" said what you said but it was a whole book thick!

DaveL
Toronto


Dave

  
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2mnycars
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Jun 03, 2010 13:04 |  #12

Sunny 16 rule!

In sunlight
Set aperture at f/16
Set shutter speed at 1/(ISO setting on the camera)

To prevent camera shake from destroying your image:
Shutter speed should be greater than 1/(focal length of lens)

Image stabilization makes such a difference to me. I can hand-hold the camera at lower shutter speeds. (a 100 mm lens--minimum shutter speed (w/o image stabilization) would be 1/100 sec. With image stabilazation it could be 1/25 sec or even slower.

DaveL


Dave

  
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Kevan
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Jun 03, 2010 15:49 |  #13

Just wait until you try to understand the post processing software...

The G series cameras are pretty forgiving since they don't perform exactly like a slr. Get it so your screen shows the histogram on the screen, center the hump (more or less), and practice...practice...​practice. Go to the library and take out a book on basic photography as the detail translates to digital.

Join the challenges here to force your education. They truly help.


kevan's lens (external link)

  
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n1as
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Jun 03, 2010 19:46 |  #14

Sunny 16 Rule - Cool, but the G11 doesn't have f/16 IIRC LOL!

You know, there was a day (not that long ago) when every camera was manual. Everyone shooting a DSLR shot in manual mode from the start. It is really, really easy. You are playing with 3 variables. You can preset two and then adjust the 3rd to achieve your exposure as indicated by the light meter.

1. Set your ISO to 80 unless the lighting is weak
2. Set your aperture to f/4.5
3. Adjust shutter speed to get a good exposure as indicated by the light meter.

There ya go, 3 steps and you're shooting in manual.

But I have to ask, WHY do you WANT to shoot in manual mode? I suppose it is a good way to learn the interaction between aperture and shutter speed (i.e. stops) but the whole process really doesn't teach a person that much. It is slower than shooting in an auto exposure mode and will produce worse results in many cases.

You'd be better to get a good beginner's book (Understanding Exposure is good) and read through it. Do some exercises, learn what Shutter, Aperture, ISO, White Balance are and how they (esp. the first 3) interact.


- Keith
http://darwinphoto.zen​folio.com (external link)

  
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2mnycars
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Jun 03, 2010 21:30 |  #15

You're right Keith. And photography is all about light. But cameras and light meters aren't smart.

For any ISO you have 2 controls to adjust--lens aperature and shutter speed. Get them right and you have a properly exposed picture. but there are more creative elements.

I put food on the table with photography for years. Sports photography, portraits, weddings. But that's not important.

For me photography is fun because of the adventures I have doing it, and the results I'm proud of.
It's important for me because it helps me really see!


My hope is that the OP will enjoy photography, be challenged by it and succeed. It's the experiences and images that count. Have fun!

DaveL


Dave

  
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G11 came in today, where can I learn how to shoot in manual?
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