Playing with it a little, but it's somewhat intimidating.
I looked, no stickies for learning manual shooting. Can someone point me in the right direction? This manual thing is greek to me 
EricAstin Junior Member 23 posts Joined May 2010 Location: St.Louis More info | Jun 02, 2010 19:03 | #1 Playing with it a little, but it's somewhat intimidating.
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GaryW.Graley Goldmember 1,326 posts Likes: 1 Joined Mar 2005 Location: Northeastern USA More info | Jun 02, 2010 19:08 | #2 I use Manual the most, as you get what you see kind of thing, 5D Mark ii, 17-40L, 70-300L, 100L, Tamron 28-75 f2.8, S100
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tmwag Brown Noser has crush on Suzyview More info | Jun 02, 2010 19:50 | #3 Eric Astin wrote in post #10291598 I looked, no stickies for learning manual shooting. Manual shooting requires a lot of trial and error on your own to really learn proper exposure and what works best for you. Aquire some good books as well.
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5280Pics Goldmember More info | This book _______________
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afkenner Senior Member 318 posts Likes: 18 Joined Feb 2009 More info | Jun 02, 2010 21:56 | #5 Eric Astin wrote in post #10291598 Can someone point me in the right direction? This manual thing is greek to me Definitions:
Change JUST ONE setting and take another picture. You should see a SLIGHT improvement in the exposure (lighter or darker). Keep changing the setting until you get a good image. NOW go back to the ORIGINAL settings, and try changing a different setting to get a correct exposure. This method will yield properly exposed pictures, but so will any of the AUTO modes on the camera. Learning WHICH setting to change in a particular situation is where the mechanics end and the artistry begins. These are the reasons why you WANT to use manual exposure instead of letting the camera decide for you. Earlier, I mentioned that there are different consequences to changing each element of the "exposure triangle." Here are some consequences that are unrelated to the exposure but have an impact on the images you will capture: Shutter Speed: Slower shutter speeds mean more sensitivity to camera shake and/or subject movement. It's difficult to get a sharp picture at speeds below 1/30 second if your camera is handheld or if the subject is moving at all. Faster shutter speeds eliminate handheld camera shake, and very fast shutter speeds can freeze subject motion, even very fast motion. Aperture: Changing the aperture also changes depth of field (DOF), which is a measure of how much of the scene from close up to far away is in sharp focus. A narrow aperture will result in greater DOF (more of the scene is in focus) and a wide aperture will lessen the DOF (only a small range of distance is in focus). This effect is more pronounced when the lens is zoomed toward the telephoto end of the range and less pronounced when at wide angle. Cameras like the G11 do not have a lot of aperture range, and their small sensors tend to increase the DOF in all shots, so this is less of an issue (and less creative opportunity) than it would be with a DSLR and a lens with a greater aperture range. Also, most lenses have a sharpness zone - a range of apertures where they perform best. This varies by lens, but you can assume that most lenses lose a little quality at the edges of the aperture range. ISO: As you increase sensitivity to light, you also increase "noise" in the image. Noise is a term that refers to unwanted color elements in the image introduced by the image capture process. Noise looks like bits of color and is obvious when looking at the picture at 100% size on your computer screen, but a lot of noise can be visible at much smaller sizes and will detract from the appearance of your image. Therefore, ISO should be set as low as possible (80) for the least noise and cleanest image results. In many shooting situations (like indoors in normal room lighting) you need to set the ISO higher (400 or more) to get an acceptable image, but you will start to notice noise at ISO 400 and it will become really obvious at higher settings. Conclusion: If you have read this far, bravo and thank you. This is a long post with a lot of information. For other (better? clearer?) explanations, you can find all of this in other places online by searching for "exposure triangle" or any of the terms above. As others have responded, there is no substitute for experience. Set your camera to "M" and start shooting. You will have some frustration in the beginning but soon you will find that the mechanics are happening automatically and you are making creative and artistic choices with your manual settings. Share your results here on POTN for lots of useful feedback. Enjoy and happy shooting!
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Jun 02, 2010 23:11 | #6 Thanks for taking the time to post that. I do appreciate it. I was able to lighten and darken pictures through your directions. One question, how do I focus in on a object manually?
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afkenner Senior Member 318 posts Likes: 18 Joined Feb 2009 More info | Jun 02, 2010 23:17 | #7 Press MF (top of the round control button) and use the outer dial to focus.
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peejayw Member 45 posts Likes: 3 Joined May 2009 Location: New Zealand More info | What a simple, concise and easily understood introduction to manual exposure, well done! Canon 650D | Sigma 18-250mm Macro HSM | Canon 50mm 1.8 | Canon 100mm Macro 2.8 USM | Yongnuo 568 EX
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afkenner Senior Member 318 posts Likes: 18 Joined Feb 2009 More info | Jun 03, 2010 05:21 | #9 peejayw wrote in post #10293770 What a simple, concise and easily understood introduction to manual exposure, well done! Thanks! In addition to helping a new photographer, I hoped to explain a complex subject in simple terms and maybe start a sticky post on manual exposure since the OP stated that one wasn't easy to find.
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objetda Member 67 posts Joined Apr 2010 Location: Melbourne, Australia More info | Jun 03, 2010 09:18 | #10 As most people have said above, its a matter of getting out there and shooting with a bit of trial and error, learning your way around the camera. I did find this book Canon Powershot G11 ~ 550EX II / Raynox DCR-1540 / Raynox M-250 / Nikon WC-E75 / Canon WC-DC58N
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2mnycars Goldmember 3,040 posts Likes: 44 Joined Apr 2009 Location: Canada More info | Jun 03, 2010 12:58 | #11 What a delight to find this post. Dave
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2mnycars Goldmember 3,040 posts Likes: 44 Joined Apr 2009 Location: Canada More info | Jun 03, 2010 13:04 | #12 Sunny 16 rule! Dave
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Kevan Goldmember 3,125 posts Likes: 17 Joined Dec 2007 Location: Easton, MD More info | Jun 03, 2010 15:49 | #13 Just wait until you try to understand the post processing software...
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n1as Goldmember 2,330 posts Likes: 25 Joined Oct 2007 Location: Salem, OR More info | Jun 03, 2010 19:46 | #14 Sunny 16 Rule - Cool, but the G11 doesn't have f/16 IIRC LOL! - Keith
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2mnycars Goldmember 3,040 posts Likes: 44 Joined Apr 2009 Location: Canada More info | Jun 03, 2010 21:30 | #15 You're right Keith. And photography is all about light. But cameras and light meters aren't smart. Dave
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