Filters for 10-22?

Will be going to Zion, Yellowstone, and Grand Tetons in late August. I haven't done much work with landscapes other than some Florida sunsets. What filters do I need for getting some really nice landscape photos of these areas?

Thanks in advance.

Typically for landscape photography in general people use both circular polarizers and graduated neutral density filters. Im sure they would both be of great use to you at those locations as well.

Might want to add a straight ND filter as well. It will allow you to greatly decrease your shutter speed getting that nice milky smooth waterfall action.

gjl711 wrote in post #10295593
Might want to add a straight ND filter as well. It will allow you to greatly decrease your shutter speed getting that nice milky smooth waterfall action.

Always wondered how you did that! I'll be sure to get one!

Is any particular brand of these filters better than the others? I know the cheap ones are pretty much garbage.

B+W is what most will recommend including myself. For the ND and CPL filters that are great and the easy choice. However it gets a little trick with the GND filter and filter holding systems like the Lee or Cokin.

bettyn wrote in post #10295638
Is any particular brand of these filters better than the others? I know the cheap ones are pretty much garbage.

I just ordered the Cokin NDG filter kit and added the 153 and 154 ND filters. So that gets you 3 GND filters and 2 ND filters and filter holder for a bit over $200.

http://www.2filter.com​/cokin/cokinzpro.html

Here is the main website. The P-system is a bit less expensive but I'm not sure if they will vignette on the 10-22, that's why I ordered the z-pro 4x4 filters.
http://www.2filter.com​/cokin/cokin.html

Thanks for the info, guys!

I took my 10-22 to Bryce and Zion last summer. First, I found it a little trickier to get good landscape shots from it than I had anticipated. Some shots in Bryce, in particular, ended up looking chaotic when compared to the 28 mm (equivalent, i.e., 17 mm on my 40D) neighborhood of focal lengths. Second, I got some very poor results with the CPL because the lens is too wide to get a uniform color in the sky. But I got some very nice shots with the GND filter. You have to be careful about the placement of the dark area, but it can tame that Southwest light when used properly. The bottom line for me was that I got tons of great landscape shot with a longer lens (17-85), but only a few with the 10-22. It's a wonderful lens, but I'm using it more for closer subjects and interiors.

jazzman wrote in post #10295947
... I got some very poor results with the CPL because the lens is too wide to get a uniform color in the sky. But I got some very nice shots with the GND filter...

I have given up using a polarizor on any wide lens because of the non-uniformity of the sky. Some folks like that but I'd rather get a more uniform appearance. I pocked up a screw in GND but it's too limiting as you can't control where the grad line will fall. I'm hoping that the Cokin system is more flexible.

jazzman wrote in post #10295947
I took my 10-22 to Bryce and Zion last summer. First, I found it a little trickier to get good landscape shots from it than I had anticipated. Some shots in Bryce, in particular, ended up looking chaotic when compared to the 28 mm (equivalent, i.e., 17 mm on my 40D) neighborhood of focal lengths. Second, I got some very poor results with the CPL because the lens is too wide to get a uniform color in the sky. But I got some very nice shots with the GND filter. You have to be careful about the placement of the dark area, but it can tame that Southwest light when used properly. The bottom line for me was that I got tons of great landscape shot with a longer lens (17-85), but only a few with the 10-22. It's a wonderful lens, but I'm using it more for closer subjects and interiors.

You know I found the same. I originally bought the 16-35 II thinking it would mostly be used for landscape with the occasional large indoor building, but its my 24-70 that I use more for landscapes as the 16-35 II is actually too wide for most I have tried it on. Now I just use the 16-35 occasionally for indoor situations where I need that ultra wide in a smaller space.

+1 on polarizers being very tricky with the 10-22 - i'd put your money on GNDs, which, incidentally, can be very easily held with one hand against the lens for handheld shots.

I don't use a CPL on my 10-22 (for the reasons already stated), but do on my 28-135 and others and love the effect on the sky. I have the z-pro with a GND filter that I've used on occasion. For a CPL I have a B+W KSM and don't regret having spent the money.

You can, and probably should use a polarizer not only for the sky but to remove reflections from water. The trick is that full-polarization is not always needed, just give the CPL a very slight twist to see the effect. I find I frequently use a small amount of polarization and rarely use the full twist of the filter.

In terms of brands Singh-Ray are the best ones IMO, then Heliopan, then the pro line of Hoya and B+W.

For sunsets and sunrises consider a reverse grad nd instead of the regular one, the horizon is the brightest part in those shots and not the top of the sky.

Luigi

I had the 10-22 for 2.5 years and got good results with the Hoya Pro 1D polarizer. It can be bought from 2filter for about $105, much cheaper than most other places. Good shop in New Hampshire, I have bought from 2filter many times. With that lens, I got best results when I avoided the 10-14mm range. At times, the sky will show some banding if the lens is used in this range. However, it does depend on the sky. Sometimes you can get away with it. Think broken skyline, clouds, etc.. It was worse with a solid blue mid day sky it seemed. Above 14mm, it was rarely an issue. This applies to using a polarizer on any ultra wide angle lens. Below is an image from coastal Maine at 10mm...