Getting Good Photos in Low Light, No Flash

There are stand alone versions for Noiseware (I bought the standard stand alone version for I think about $50 some time ago). If they still offer it, a "community" version is free and only marginally crippled.

Staszek wrote in post #10313781
Wow Gel, that came out nice. I'm going to have to look into that Noiseware program.

*EDIT* just saw that Noiseware is for Lightroom. I think I've headed down the Aperture 3 path...

Third party noise reduction is something i've used on about five photos out of the one hundred and fifty thousand odd wedding photos i've taken. I don't think I even used it on an ISO20,000 image from the 7D which I printed 14" wide in an album. I don't like it as it makes images look plastic, and I find it unnecessary.

Gel wrote in post #10313183
To be honest...those images are good considering.

I took one of those images, put it through Noiseware pro, and sharpened the eyes and they look perfectly ok.

There was no noise in that pic to warrant noiseware. At least not the kind I use it for.

I am always taking pictures in dark concert halls and gyms without flash, but it's not me, it's the gear. I have a 5D2 and 70-200 2.8 IS and can shoot ISO 5000 and get very little noise. F4 is not something I use indoors very often. It took me 3-4 years to figure out I needed to use faster lenses and saved enough to afford one. If you can use flash, the 430II is an excellent flash. I have one now and it's much better than I expected.

I think this picture is a better candidate for noise.

Solid backgrounds are one place where noise reduction can be helpful, especially when masked.

Staszek wrote in post #10310674
This is true, P/S flashes were going off like crazy at certain parts. They were all from their seat, I was moving around the room and getting in the way looking for angles. It's safe to say I was the only one that talked to the teachers beforehand. Being my first indoor event, I wanted to be respectful and be out of the way. Shoot and learn right?

Sometimes it's easier (and better) to ask for forgiveness after the fact, than to ask for permission before hand.

philwillmedia wrote in post #10314839
Sometimes it's easier (and better) to ask for forgiveness after the fact, than to ask for permission before hand.

Good advice. Next time I will wait for them to tell me "no more flash"

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …S_1D_Mark_IV.ht​ml#reviews

and buy me one too.

sctbiggs wrote in post #10399445
http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …S_1D_Mark_IV.ht​ml#reviews

and buy me one too.

That is exactly what I need. Amazing ISO and 10 fps. I love shooting sports, so that could come in handy. Question before I order, where do I send yours?

When I played with a 1D4 vs my 7D I gave it between one and two stops advantage at high ISO, but closer to one than two.

Like some here, I would prefer more control on the (low) iso settings & that can be achieved by using a tripod/monopod, IME.....

The problem is your camera generates too much noise if the ISO is over 600 and your lenses aren't "fast" enough to work well in indoor available lighting. You need to consider upgrading the camera to 5D or better. The 50 1.4 is a great lens and works well with the 5D but you probably need more reach. To pull this off successfully, you are going to need a 2.8 L lens such as the 24-70 or the 70-200.

jerrybsmith wrote in post #10418559
The problem is your camera generates too much noise if the ISO is over 600 and your lenses aren't "fast" enough to work well in indoor available lighting. You need to consider upgrading the camera to 5D or better. The 50 1.4 is a great lens and works well with the 5D but you probably need more reach. To pull this off successfully, you are going to need a 2.8 L lens such as the 24-70 or the 70-200.

Good advice, but I can't upgrade to a "5D or better" any time soon. I think working with primes would be the best bet, as f/2.8 was a little slow for my novice hands. Granted, knowing what I know now, I would take the 50 and another tele prime (135L) for No-Flash photography.

But, I just received my 430EX II today and bouncing is awesome! I'm working as a second shooter at a Filipino cotillion tomorrow (today actually), and I'll be using my new flash with my 50 f/1.4 and 24-105. We'll see how that goes in another thread

If you can't work with F2.8 you probably can't work with F1.4. It's only two stops (ish). Plus bad light is still bad light even if you can get more of it.