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Thread started 29 Jul 2005 (Friday) 10:58
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Top Tips specifically for the 350D

 
RAitch
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Aug 01, 2005 00:16 as a reply to  @ post 689530 |  #16

smasraum wrote:
Thanks for all of the info. Now for some more of my own comments and questions.

1 The split circle takes a lot of the guess work out of manual focus. It's really, really easy (assuming the subject cooperates) to get a perfect focus every time. The split circle focuse uses a small circle in the middle of the viewfinder that has a horizontal line through the middle of the circle (and usually another concentric ring around that). To focuse you find a high contrast line somewhere on the subject and put the circle on the line. When the focus is off the line on the subject will be split, but as you come into focus it will merge into one line.
like this
out of focus
-------|
----------|

in focus
---------|
---------|

2 All of this talk about post processing and adjusting images and raw. It sounded a bit like "cheating" at first. Your pictures should come out right the first time, right. anyone can alter a pic to look good. But then I realized. I guess in film photography there is also adjusting in the developement of the pictures. Color, etc can be altered. So basically the adjusting phase in digital photography is like developing pictures in film photography. Is that basically correct?

3 I decided to try some RAW photography this evening, but I haven't had time to work on the shots yet. Yowza, I wasn't expecting pics that big, averaging nearly 10 MB, but then I guess that's what RAW gives you, the 8mp plus the other info about the shot, right?

4 Am I also correct that the 350D raw is only supported in PS CS2, not CS1?

[1] I've seen that focus type on a friend's older 35mm kit. I liked it so much, I was teased by the idea that I could replace the screen in my XT to the same thing. I'm just wondering if anybody else had done that with the XT... I posted that question in another thread earlier tonight.

[2] Post processing isn't a requirement... well, it is for almost everybody here.
I still believe you can take images right from the camera and be happy with them. Everybody in my family is except me.
Personally, I like taking those good photos and try to make them spectacular. I think that's what the whole post processing thing is about. You can change the settings in the profile a bit to get them more like a POS... whoops, I mean P&S camera... but that's not what DSLR is about. These cameras aren't about party candids... we're talking serious stuff ;)

Besides, who says photography rules can't be broken... maybe not rules... conceptions.
To mention the word "cheating" might cause a disturbance for some people. After all, like you said, I've seen some crazy stuff being done with chemicals during some 35mm development before. That would never be considered cheating... more creative.

On that note, I'd argue that post processing just adds another creative level to photography.

[3] RAW files are huge... sure... but there's a whack load of image data there to play with.
This kind of ties in with the next question.

[4] I upgraded from CS1 to CS2 right around the same time I shot my first RAW XT shots. I know for sure CS2 has an updated RAW converter for the 350/XT. I have a feeling it's only available in the new RAW converter which is available in CS2.
http://www.adobe.com …/photoshop/came​raraw.html (external link)

There ARE alternatives to photoshop raw conversion that other people use (rawshooter or something like that) that I've seen raves about. You can always try one of those programs. Just do a search and you'll find other threads.
Personally, I love the Photoshop program... and that love extends into their RAW converter. I don't see why any other programs would be better... unless you're not too familiar with Photoshop. I'm pretty comfortable with Photoshop and find their converters to be excellent. Not only that, but your workflow is easier if you only have to use one program ;)


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Rigrider
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Aug 01, 2005 00:28 |  #17

Raw conversion is availbel in CS1, but the CS2 version is upgraded. In CS2 you can convert multiple images at once...in CS1 you have to do it one at a time (but you can do this quickly with a batch action or a script.) There are some other feature upgrades with CS2 but I can't remember them all right now.

L8r,


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smasraum
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Aug 01, 2005 00:36 as a reply to  @ RAitch's post |  #18

RAitch wrote:
[1] I've seen that focus type on a friend's older 35mm kit. I liked it so much, I was teased by the idea that I could replace the screen in my XT to the same thing. I'm just wondering if anybody else had done that with the XT... I posted that question in another thread earlier tonight.

Check this out:
Swich out the EF-M screen into your EOS (external link)
I got the link from here

RAitch wrote:
[2] Post processing isn't a requirement... well, it is for almost everybody here.
I still believe you can take images right from the camera and be happy with them. Everybody in my family is except me.
Personally, I like taking those good photos and try to make them spectacular. I think that's what the whole post processing thing is about. You can change the settings in the profile a bit to get them more like a POS... whoops, I mean P&S camera... but that's not what DSLR is about. These cameras aren't about party candids... we're talking serious stuff ;)

Besides, who says photography rules can't be broken... maybe not rules... conceptions.
To mention the word "cheating" might cause a disturbance for some people. After all, like you said, I've seen some crazy stuff being done with chemicals during some 35mm development before. That would never be considered cheating... more creative.

On that note, I'd argue that post processing just adds another creative level to photography.

Exactly, that was my realization. I'm still not sure what I think about the stuff I see in some of the magazines, ie photochopping out the sky to put one better in, but I've definitely come to think that adjustments are ok. I guess the problem comes in where is the line drawn. Is cloning yourself out of a reflection OK? If so then what about changing the sky?

Hopefully I didn't offend anyone. Like I said, I realized that processing is just a natural part of the process. I have a photo of one of the Barbary apes in Gibraltar that I took years ago. It's the favorite of the pics I've ever taken. The best print of it is the one that came back with the original prints of the film. Since then I've had it reprinted enlarged, scanned it and adjusted in PS myself, and none of them are as good as the original, but my photoshop comes closest.

Personally, I think I'd like to start out learning what I can do with camera adjustments to get the best originals out of the camera with minimal post-processing. And then once I've gotten a reasonable amount of consistency I'll worry about getting really wild with the alterations. Nothing wrong with alterations, but I don't want to always think, "get it close and then I can fix it later." I don't want PS to be a crutch, but I'm completely happy with it being one of my tools.

Ah well, if I'm going to P someone off it'll probably happen no matter how I try to explain it so I'll just quit while I'm behind. :rolleyes: :D

RAitch wrote:
[3] RAW files are huge... sure... but there's a whack load of image data there to play with.
This kind of ties in with the next question.

[4] I upgraded from CS1 to CS2 right around the same time I shot my first RAW XT shots. I know for sure CS2 has an updated RAW converter for the 350/XT. I have a feeling it's only available in the new RAW converter which is available in CS2.
http://www.adobe.com …/photoshop/came​raraw.html (external link)

There ARE alternatives to photoshop raw conversion that other people use (rawshooter or something like that) that I've seen raves about. You can always try one of those programs. Just do a search and you'll find other threads.
Personally, I love the Photoshop program... and that love extends into their RAW converter. I don't see why any other programs would be better... unless you're not too familiar with Photoshop. I'm pretty comfortable with Photoshop and find their converters to be excellent. Not only that, but your workflow is easier if you only have to use one program ;)

Hmm, I do, of course have the software that came with the camera, but if I can get PS CS2, seems I might as well. There's also a thread running around that seems to have some info comparing software that'll work with raw images. I haven't had time to read it yet, but I do have it bookmarked. So much info and so little time.

Thanks again


Steve
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RAitch
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Aug 01, 2005 08:22 as a reply to  @ Rigrider's post |  #19

Rigrider wrote:
Raw conversion is availbel in CS1, but the CS2 version is upgraded. In CS2 you can convert multiple images at once...in CS1 you have to do it one at a time (but you can do this quickly with a batch action or a script.) There are some other feature upgrades with CS2 but I can't remember them all right now.

L8r,

I know CS1 had RAW conversion... but I think the question was specific to the Rebel XT. I think you needed to get the latest RAW converter... but for some reason I was thinking I needed CS2 to get that.

Anyway, I might be wrong... it might work with CS1 but I'm not sure. I switched to CS2 just before I had to convert my first RAW file.


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smasraum
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Aug 01, 2005 08:27 |  #20

Yep, CS1 has raw support, but not for the XT. The raw converter version in CS1 is 2.4 which supports several Canon dig EOS cameras, but support for the XT doesn't seem to be added until Raw version 3.1 which is only available for CS2. I tried it, it definitely doesn't work. I put the latest available for CS1 last night and it says the file format is wrong on my XT images.


Steve
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RAitch
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Aug 01, 2005 08:29 as a reply to  @ smasraum's post |  #21

smasraum wrote:
Check this out:
Swich out the EF-M screen into your EOS (external link)
I got the link from here


Exactly, that was my realization. I'm still not sure what I think about the stuff I see in some of the magazines, ie photochopping out the sky to put one better in, but I've definitely come to think that adjustments are ok. I guess the problem comes in where is the line drawn. Is cloning yourself out of a reflection OK? If so then what about changing the sky?

Thanks for the links, I'll check those out.

Just think of photochopping as a creative exercise... I think it should be considered separate from photography somehow. Anyway, anything is fair game if it can be done (IMO) but something that has been chopped should never be passed as something that was OOC (out of camera).
I hate it when people say they only sharpened and adjusted colours when they did way more then that... like when they replace the sky and you can see the old sky through the trees.


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Jon
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Aug 01, 2005 08:35 as a reply to  @ post 686824 |  #22

RFMSports wrote:
Actually, the majority of tips and tuning tricks apply to all the Canon series cameras. All the cameras, including the 1-series use the exact same Cfn for the * button.

All the current ones, at least. It's CF-2 on the D60.


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smasraum
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Aug 01, 2005 09:24 as a reply to  @ RAitch's post |  #23

RAitch wrote:
Thanks for the links, I'll check those out.

Just think of photochopping as a creative exercise... I think it should be considered separate from photography somehow. Anyway, anything is fair game if it can be done (IMO) but something that has been chopped should never be passed as something that was OOC (out of camera).
I hate it when people say they only sharpened and adjusted colours when they did way more then that... like when they replace the sky and you can see the old sky through the trees.

Now why couldn't I have put it like that? :)


Steve
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RAitch
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Aug 01, 2005 10:19 as a reply to  @ smasraum's post |  #24

smasraum wrote:
Now why couldn't I have put it like that? :)

Don't worry, nobody will actually take offense to anything you said... and we all know what you meant. We all know digital is different than the film world... unless of course you have a high-res scanner ;)


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chemicalbro
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Aug 01, 2005 10:43 as a reply to  @ smasraum's post |  #25

smasraum wrote:
Exactly, that was my realization. I'm still not sure what I think about the stuff I see in some of the magazines, ie photochopping out the sky to put one better in, but I've definitely come to think that adjustments are ok. I guess the problem comes in where is the line drawn. Is cloning yourself out of a reflection OK? If so then what about changing the sky?
Thanks again

i would say that chopping out a full sky and replacing it with a better one is as you say "cheating"...also if i had a photo and there was my reflection in it i would bin it......
the main reason i shoot in raw is the fact that you can pull brightness levels out of a dark photo, you can change the white balance once the shot is taken, i dunno about you but i'm a forgetful chap at the best of times .
having the added security of raw enables you to change the settings of the camera even after the photo is taken

(imagine the scenario, you have been messing around with the camera taking some black and white shots, you forget to change it back to a colour mode and then take the most spectacular photo you have ever taken.........get home and OH S**T its B&W,,,,, not a problem for raw coz the colour data is still in there and you can change it back with your photo editing software, try doing that with a jpg :))

its more of a security thing with me......... I'd say that about 50% of my keepers have no more manipulation than a little brightness/colour adjustment.
it also makes it SLIGHTLY less important to get the perfect exposue each time
you know in your mind that the photo out of the camera is gonna be dark/light but you know you can change that to get the image you envisioned

the way i see it the whole point of digital is that it is infinately editable.....

oh and get a bigger memory card :)


Alan

  
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zacker
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Aug 01, 2005 11:01 |  #26

ALOTT OF PEOPLE USE RAW SHOOTER ESSENTIAL OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT AND THEY SWEAR BY IT. YOU CAN USE THE CANON SOFTWARE TO EDIT AND CONVERT TO TIFF THEN IMPORT TO ps/cs AND FURTHER MANIPULATE THE FILES THERE.
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Aug 01, 2005 12:38 as a reply to  @ zacker's post |  #27

Justa quick note on RAW with the 350D, if you have CS1 you can get the CS2 raw update and also use the adobe Digital negative converter to convert your 350d raw files to raw file that cs1 RAW prog can use.

Free download at
http://www.adobe.com …oduct=39&platfo​rm=Windows (external link)
but you do need a login also free

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smasraum
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Aug 01, 2005 15:55 |  #28

Thanks all. That's cool to know about the color/B&W thing. I'm love photography, have since I was really young. I don't have the patience for painting, but I do for photography. I'm really enjoying learning so much even if I haven't gotten a chance to do much actual picture taking since I got the camera.


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Aug 02, 2005 14:38 |  #29

Turn "shoot without CF card" to OFF. Saves a lot of embarrassment. Did you ever "shoot" important photos without a film in your camera? - same problem, this solves it.

My other top tips -
*at the end of every shooting session, check you have reset anything you have changed back to your defaults
*learn to interpret the histogram so you can repeat any incorrect exposure while you still can
*always have a spare, charged battery with you
*always use a UV filter
*use a monopod or tripod when shooting in lowish light
*buy a wired or wireless release
*buy a flashgun, and save all that time retouching red eyes!


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smasraum
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Aug 02, 2005 15:01 as a reply to  @ puttick's post |  #30

Thanks

puttick wrote:
Turn "shoot without CF card" to OFF. Saves a lot of embarrassment. Did you ever "shoot" important photos without a film in your camera? - same problem, this solves it.

I only have one CF card, and never take it out, but I know what you mean. In my film days it's happened.

puttick wrote:
My other top tips -
*at the end of every shooting session, check you have reset anything you have changed back to your defaults
*learn to interpret the histogram so you can repeat any incorrect exposure while you still can

I've read the histogram and exposure articles on luminous-landscape.com. They were very educational.

puttick wrote:
*always have a spare, charged battery with you

need to order one

puttick wrote:
*always use a UV filter

check

puttick wrote:
*use a monopod or tripod when shooting in lowish light

I'm dying for a monopod

puttick wrote:
*buy a wired or wireless release

I tried the universal remote thing, but it didn't work, so yes, I want an RC-1

puttick wrote:
*buy a flashgun, and save all that time retouching red eyes!

Won't the 350D do redeye reduction using a preflash? I haven't tried it yet.


Steve
Canon EOS 60D, 350D, 630
Canon 15-85 IS, 100-400L IS, 50mm 1.8, Canon 18-55mm, Sigma 70-300 APO DG Macro
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