Hoya HD Vs B+W Kaesemann Circular Polarizers

I'm looking for a circular polarizer for my 17-55.

Can anyone offer advice on the Hoya HD vs the B+W Kaesemann MRC? I'm assuming these are two of the best circular polarizers one can buy.

Is the Kaesemann worth the extra ~$50? Am I correct in assuming the regular version is more desired than the slim version due to the front threads?

Thanks ahead for any help.


Joe

There's also the Singh-Ray circular polarizer for $210, if you want the best.

Went with the Hoya.

Love my Kaesemanns....

NewAgeVisions wrote in post #10397565
Love my Kaesemanns....

Same here.

I have the Hoya Pro1 D and Hoya HD cpl. Awesome filters. No complaints at all. Look at prices on the site www.2filter.com

ben_r_ wrote in post #10397914
Same here.

+2 ...

I have 1 B+W Kaesemann slim CP that I got for my 18-200. but recently I went out and bought a Hoya HD for my Tokina/100-400 lens.

If doing it all over again, I would go with the Hoya. Not that the B+W is not very good. I would say it is just about equal in build quality and function. But here is where I found the Hoya to excel

1. Price. for equal quality, I'd rather not pay more
2. Hoya takes a regular lens cap. And the number of times that they B+W has fallen off in the camera bag.. arg!
3. adjust ability. As there is a slight more metal to allow for the lens cap, you can adjust the polarizer with a hood still attached.


The only thing that was better with the B+W.. it came in a nicer plastic case.

Matt.

Have Hoya 72mm which is nice kit. When time for the 77mm CPL, got the B+W Kaesemann.

Regardless of which CPL you get, get a linear PL to go in front...to make a VND. The VND comes in handy if you want to blur things like moving water.

MCAsan wrote in post #10399376
Have Hoya 72mm which is nice kit. When time for the 77mm CPL, got the B+W Kaesemann.

Regardless of which CPL you get, get a linear PL to go in front...to make a VND. The VND comes in handy if you want to blur things like moving water.

ughhh, why is that?

A circular polarizing filter is for use with all cameras with beam splitters in the light paths of their TTL exposure meter and with autofocus lenses.

A Linear polarization filter is for SLRs and rangefinder cameras without beam splitters in their light paths.

mchong75 wrote in post #10399998
ughhh, why is that?

You're not reading it right. Stacking 2 polarizers make a Variable Neutral Density filter.

http://www.instructabl​es.com …e-Neutral-Density-Filter/

wcgryphon wrote in post #10400285
You're not reading it right. Stacking 2 polarizers make a Variable Neutral Density filter.

http://www.instructabl​es.com …e-Neutral-Density-Filter/

Ahhh, sorry. Yes, I did miss out that part.

wcgryphon wrote in post #10400285
You're not reading it right. Stacking 2 polarizers make a Variable Neutral Density filter.

http://www.instructabl​es.com …e-Neutral-Density-Filter/

mchong75 wrote in post #10400420
Ahhh, sorry. Yes, I did miss out that part.

And stacking 2 CPLs won't do the job; the front one has to be a linear (But be aware that you'll likely see extreme colour casts at the maximum densities; the combos I've tried have given me very strong blues. This isn't related to the linear vs. circular, but is to the part of the spectrum that's effectively controlled by each filter.).

Yeah, once upon a time I also tried the CPL+LPL gizmo and I must say that I was dissappointed. Not really usable above 5 stops due to the EXTEME color casts noted above. In my case it was more violet than blue. The CPLs were not cheapos --- two B+W Kaessermans --- and yes, I had them in the correct order.

The main reason you would want a vari-ND is to use it above 5 stops, where you can compose and focus with the filter in place, then turn it to tune the attenuation you want. With a 3-4 stop you can just leave the filter in place and do it (at least in bright sunlight).

Don't know about the Singh-Ray vari-ND, but I certainly would not recommend the home-made version (CPL+LPL). Not to mention that I most often use NDs on WA lenses, and stacked filters vignette pretty severely below 14mm on an APS-C sensor.

There are not very many quantitative CP tests out there based upon instrument measurements, but here is one:
http://www.lenstip.com …arizing_filters​_test.html
and a suppliment to include several other CP filters including the Hoya HD.
http://www.lenstip.com …Hoya_HD_CIR-PL_72_mm.html

The B&W generally did quite well. However.. quoted from the test summary:
"B+W EW KSM C-POL MRC 72 mm filter got the most points and… was disqualified. It’s hard to say why a polarizer tagged with letters “c-pol” on the ring, and “circular-pol” on the box turned out to be linear. Perhaps it wouldn’t be so shocking if it hadn’t been for the fact that it was manufactured by an acknowledged company with a good reputation. Additionally it’s the most expensive in the field. Shame and scandal. "

The Marumi DHG Super scored the same as the top rated B&W and was much, much more affordable. I got one of these from www.2filter.com It works fine and appears well made, but it is not made out of brass.
Mike K