night club photos (NWS) (2)

Is this the Bower SLY 835C? I just added that to my wishlist... I thoguht I was done buying stuff

cabinajm wrote in post #12731467
Is this the Bower SLY 835C? I just added that to my wishlist... I thoguht I was done buying stuff

No it's the Peleng 8mm.

SebkeClaes wrote in post #12733282
No it's the Peleng 8mm.

any difference between them? I'm familiar with the big three (canon, sigma, tamron) but not with "off brands"

Did a shoot at Opera Nightclub in Atlanta for a Timothy Maurice Fashion Show.

Don't know that this is the right place for these, but here we go...

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cabinajm wrote in post #12733384
any difference between them? I'm familiar with the big three (canon, sigma, tamron) but not with "off brands"

Well, the Peleng is completely manual, where I think the others have autofocus and aperture adjust in camera. It's also completely circular if you mount it on a FF.

Kechar wrote in post #12733580
Did a shoot at Opera Nightclub in Atlanta for a Timothy Maurice Fashion Show.

Don't know that this is the right place for these, but here we go...

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These are superb! Especially this last one!

so I've been reading post on this thread since 2007... trying to understand one thing.. dragging my shutter... here's two images to show you why..

I just landed a huge opportunity to shoot at local clubs and wanna fix this one ...hope someone can help me....
i go from extreme darkness without flash with my 50mm to complete daylight...
ideas?

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if im not mistaking, the right one looks like your using flash while left one isnt?

^---That's what he said in his post...

Westcoast...it's all going to depend on your gear setup. I'd need more information on the camera/lens/flash you're using...and then the settings you're using as well.

If you're using the on-camera flash, you're probably not going to get the look you're wanting to achieve. The images will always be 'flat' with it because it's always straight toward the subject. The flash needs to come from an angle to create depth.

As far as settings go, a good place to start would be keeping your aperture around f4 and shooting with a shutter speed of about 1/8th of a second. With these settings, you'll always use flash. If you're trying to 'drag' your shutter without flash, you're just going to get a blurry picture every time. It's intended to be used with flash. Also...if you're not using a hot shoe flash, get one..any way you can...whether you have to rent it for your gigs or buy one. You'll thank yourself later.

I've been shooting with a 580exii on-camera for the last year and I'm looking to start shooting with one on camera and one off.

I'm not quite sure on the right way to go about this. Definitely going to have my 580 for the main off camera, but I want to keep it pretty cheap for the fill on camera. I'll go as cheap as I can find as long as it has a good Auto Focus Assist Beam on the flash.

I was looking into buying this transmitter/receiver kit: http://www.gadgetinfin​ity.com/product.php?pr​oductid=17567

And maybe this cheap flash for the fill oncamera: http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …essional_Digita​l_SLR.html

Would anyone recommend any other flash with a good AF Assist? Or anything else for that matter.

mosesport wrote in post #12736131
^---That's what he said in his post...

Westcoast...it's all going to depend on your gear setup. I'd need more information on the camera/lens/flash you're using...and then the settings you're using as well.

If you're using the on-camera flash, you're probably not going to get the look you're wanting to achieve. The images will always be 'flat' with it because it's always straight toward the subject. The flash needs to come from an angle to create depth.

As far as settings go, a good place to start would be keeping your aperture around f4 and shooting with a shutter speed of about 1/8th of a second. With these settings, you'll always use flash. If you're trying to 'drag' your shutter without flash, you're just going to get a blurry picture every time. It's intended to be used with flash. Also...if you're not using a hot shoe flash, get one..any way you can...whether you have to rent it for your gigs or buy one. You'll thank yourself later.

_______________
So here it is, I'm using a Canon 60d with a 50mm lens and a 430ex2 flash- info on the pics: dark picture ISO 3200 50mm with AWB f/1.8 at shutter 1/80 no flash...the light picture ISO 400 50mm f/1.8 shutter 1/80 flash on ETTL.. hope that helps

In my humble opinion (as well as the opinion of most of the 'regulars' in the nightlife community here), the 50 is a terrible lens for this type of work. With the focal length multiplier of the 60D, you're looking at a lens that's effectively 80mm...which is WAY too telephoto for this type of work. If you bought the 60D as a kit, the 18-55 that came with it will produce better results for that type of work. I used the 430exII for all of my club shooting, and it was more than sufficient. It looks to me as though the flash is pointed straight at the subjects. I would recommend bouncing it off a ceiling (if possible), or do what I did, which was use a StoFen diffuser. They're cheap and very effective. I always kept my flash at 45 degrees pointed up with the diffuser, and it produced good results. Another option is to buy an off-camera cord. I was always much happier with the photos shooting that way, although it gets cumbersome because you have no free hands. I would say if you're going to be getting paid for the work you're doing, always shoot with flash. The high ISO/no flash pictures aren't what club owners want, unfortunately. If you're set on using the 50mm, be prepared to stand far away from your subjects (hard to do it a crowded club). Also, I would still recommend the settings I said before. Keep your flash on TTL. Keep your aperture around f4 (your pictures will be much sharper), and 1/80th is definitely not dragging the shutter. Keep it around 1/8th to 1/15th and you'll produce some quality shots that will incorporate whatever you've frozen with your flash, along with some good ambient light. My ISO was always at 800.

Another thing to keep in mind with that 50mm lens...if you're shooting at f1.8, your depth of field is very shallow, which means you have a lot greater chance of your intended subjects not being in focus...especially true with large groups of people.

Hope that helped...and be sure to post some pics when you have more to see how they look.

Here's a random shot I took on my 40D with similar settings so you can get an idea of what to expect. 40D - 18-55 lens - f3.5 - 1/6th sec - 430exII 45 degree with StoFen diffuser (not the best shot in the world, but you get the idea):

noted! imma try this weekend coming up and will post...i appreciate your time!

Hello, I need some advice.

This Friday, I will be taking shots at my friend's event. He will be renting out almost every single laser from every single Stage and Sound rental shop in town. He owns a few powerful lasers himself and I made the mistake of photographing a taking a "test run" of his new laser gear in his garage. I BURNED the sensor on my brand new Fuji X100!!! Luckily I was able to get it fixed!

That being said, I was made very aware of the dangers of shooting lasers with digitals. So I will be shooting film for the first time at a show like this. I am faced with a couple of challenges:

- My only film cameras are manual focus (Minolta SRT-303b, X700), coupled with a 28mm 2.8 or 50mm 1.4
- The only film I can find in my town is 400 print negative.
- I am not used to shooting lower than ISO800!
- The flash I intend to use is also outside of the comfort of my 550EX with ETTL, a Vivitar 285HV!

My plans are the following
- I'm hoping that the margin of manual focusing error can be increased by using a the wider (but slower) 28mm lens.
- Shutter speeds between 1/15 and 1/60 to capture the laser movement

This is where I need help, typically in the past, I would bounce flash off the ceiling with the flash mounted on the shoe, No Idea what I would do with the 285HV, at ISO1600 I found that if the thyristor wasn't also looking at the ceiling, the scene would get blown out (even in the lowest "yellow" auto setting). I wonder if this would still apply at ISO400.


I'm hoping this week to set myself up a "mock" situation and use my 5D to determine what settings to use and how to use the flash.
If I can't use the flash on the shoe (scene gets too blown out) I might have to rent a transmitter and mount the flash on the lighting truss up front.

The only thing I refuse to do is have the flash pointed forward from the shoe, I found that this doesn't look great especially in haze.

Also, does haze/fog pose a risk to camera equipment? (molecules settling internally on lens elements?)