night club photos (NWS) (2)

Kiss-o-matic - there was a guy trying to sleep standing up on Friday, think he might have had a bit to much orange juce. He also tried to make out with a lamp post. Manchester isn't quite as classy as Tokyo

fminus - nice shots, I'd love to get a chance to shoot bloody beetroots. I'd have to resist putting a spiderman mask on and spraying him with silly string.... might not go down that well

question, for those who shoot clubs. Are you all just going in with your cam setups, asking for permission ahead of time, or do you actually work FOR the club?

Also, I see a few beams of light a quite a few of you guys' photos. How do you deal with those lights(the ones found at raves and whatnot)? I hear that they can kill your sensor... Are you just extra careful and paying attention to how they move?

AAphotog wrote in post #14493238
question, for those who shoot clubs. Are you all just going in with your cam setups, asking for permission ahead of time, or do you actually work FOR the club?

Also, I see a few beams of light a quite a few of you guys' photos. How do you deal with those lights(the ones found at raves and whatnot)? I hear that they can kill your sensor... Are you just extra careful and paying attention to how they move?

Whilst I'm not anywhere as experienced as the others in this forum, I work weekly at a couple of clubs (for a student union) and you couldn't be more right. The dynamic lights that move around will kill your sensor, depending on the quality of the lights and what shutter speed (mostly) your are using. And there's second shutter curtain of course, but that's a whole new story.

If you are trying to capture the ambient, I'm assuming you'll have the settings to go with that, and as a consequence you have to be conscious of these lights. The way I deal with them is I get to know the lights, how they move and how long they stay on. What's more is I take 1-3 photographs of the same group. All within 2 seconds (otherwise people start to look away). Fortunately within those 2 seconds, at least one of the pictures will have not been sabotaged by overhead lighting, and I can get the ambience in the background I wanted.

Lastly, I scope out the place and figure out what places are 'danger zones' (right in front of the DJ set, is usually where the majority of the lights are pointed where I work) and the 'safe zones' (on the edges, or further out in the crowd). By safe zones I mean, areas which aren't heavily populated with dynamic moving lights. These are perfect because all the ambience is in the background, but there is nothing that can potentially shine on a clubbers face and 'ruin' their face. On the other hand, danger zones you need to watch out for, usually it's where the crowd go maddest, and you can get the best pictures, but you need to account for all the incoming light.

If all these steps fail, I have a few techniques in Lightroom to subtract the light (which people on this very forum taught me). However depending on the intensity of the issue, it's not common to be able to revive a photo that the sensor has had trouble with.

Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, after all, I'm here for the learning too.

Yaadie wrote in post #14466240
Cool, and my last question (for a while, lol) Which program do you use to design your logos?

I'm studying Graphic Design at university currently, and whilst I'm only in my second year. I have been doing this for about 4/5 years. I'll say this, if you don't know what software to use to design a logo, then stay well away.

That being said, logo's are most commonly designed in Adobe Illustrator. I would definitely outsource to a real designer as this is something that will represent you for the rest of your career and a weak logo, is a weak first impression.

SleazyMermaid wrote in post #14491319
Kiss-o-matic - there was a guy trying to sleep standing up on Friday, think he might have had a bit to much orange juce. He also tried to make out with a lamp post. Manchester isn't quite as classy as Tokyo

Oh, Tokyo can blow your mind if you let it. They're really lenient on sleeping in public though: including night clubs. Public transport is basically done at 12:30, so you have the choice of staying out until last train (12:30) or first train (5:00). If people can't quietly doze off in the corner, you'd lose potential customers.

Can I join?

Um, note that I don't have external flash yet so I go with popup flash and homemade film canister made difuser
Canon 450D with 18-55 IS

Anyway, here are some shots:

Hello, I'm a bit rookie in the topic, took some shots and need some criticism. Generally I use iso 800, shutter speed 4-16, aperture 2.8-4. Don't really know much about how I should alter the aperture, any suggestions? What would you change in those photos.

www.flickr.com/photos/​pawelcichonski/7286316​250

Content warning: script

HTTP response: 404 | Byte size: ZERO

Content warning: script

Content warning: script

Content warning: script

Content warning: script

Content warning: script

pawelcichonski wrote in post #14494885
Hello, I'm a bit rookie in the topic, took some shots and need some criticism. Generally I use iso 800, shutter speed 4-16, aperture 2.8-4. Don't really know much about how I should alter the aperture, any suggestions? What would you change in those photos.

www.flickr.com/photos/​pawelcichonski/7286316​250

www.flickr.com/photos/​pawelcichonski/7286314​594

http://www.flickr.com …pawelcichonski/​7286314810

http://www.flickr.com …pawelcichonski/​7286314992

http://www.flickr.com …pawelcichonski/​7286315196

http://www.flickr.com …pawelcichonski/​7286315532

http://www.flickr.com …pawelcichonski/​7286315872

http://www.flickr.com …pawelcichonski/​7286316064

http://www.flickr.com …pawelcichonski/​7286314434

If you ask me, it looks like you've just edited together your best shots and showcased them. It's hard to criticise 'the best shots,' because due to timing and such they usually are the best of the moment.

On the other hand you have some nice shots there, only feedback I'd suggest is watch out for that wide angle. Not the best for general group/people shots, as no one likes their face being weirdly stretched. Course I bet you knew that :P

Nice shots.

GCWB wrote in post #14494901
If you ask me, it looks like you've just edited together your best shots and showcased them. It's hard to criticise 'the best shots,' because due to timing and such they usually are the best of the moment.

On the other hand you have some nice shots there, only feedback I'd suggest is watch out for that wide angle. Not the best for general group/people shots, as no one likes their face being weirdly stretched. Course I bet you knew that :P

Nice shots.

More like a criticism for posting the pictures Of course I think they are ok, I'm not putting the ones that are overex. or underex., these are just samples from 3-4 nights BUT my point here is I don't want to end up in my own bubble with the same mistakes that I do over and over again. And you're totally right when it comes to group shots, generally people want me to stand back a bit more shouting to move away as they think they are not fully in frame. I'm having a bit of trouble determining what aperture should I use (I always go with the lowest) and how it might change the picture , how the light will behave and all that.

"face being weirdly stretched" - yeah People ask me: "why my face so big?".

Thanks

ps how do i link pics from flick to display? don't know why they don't display [IMG] tag, [URL] displays only link.

pawelcichonski wrote in post #14494950
More like a criticism for posting the pictures Of course I think they are ok, I'm not putting the ones that are overex. or underex., these are just samples from 3-4 nights BUT my point here is I don't want to end up in my own bubble with the same mistakes that I do over and over again. And you're totally right when it comes to group shots, generally people want me to stand back a bit more shouting to move away as they think they are not fully in frame. I'm having a bit of trouble determining what aperture should I use (I always go with the lowest) and how it might change the picture , how the light will behave and all that.

"face being weirdly stretched" - yeah People ask me: "why my face so big?".

Thanks

ps how do i link pics from flick to display? don't know why they don't display [IMG] tag, [URL] displays only link.

I'm not too familiar with flick so I'll just tell you how I do mine.

When you reply there is a square, yellow picture of 2 mountains in the reply box (where all the reply options such as 'bold' 'underline' 'font colour' and such is.. Put in a direct link to your images in there. Might be easier to just upload them to imageshack, make sure you've compressed the size to about 800 pixels long edge.

Yeah I know what you mean, I feel like I may be in the same situation as you. Hell, if you add me on facebook we could probably help each other every now and again. How wide is that lens anyway? It looks borderline fish eye.

That's VCLECF1 for Sony. I kind of like this lense, I used to have Nikkor 10.5mm with d90 which is around 180 degrees, sony's angle view is about 130 degrees which make the distortions not that obvious. A bit more of a 'wide angle lens' rather than that traditional fisheye.

Yaadie wrote in post #14466240
Cool, and my last question (for a while, lol) Which program do you use to design your logos?

On the logos.....I designed my own. I think you should take your time and do it so its personal & reflects who you are as a photographer. What do you want to be known as? For me, when people look at my general work...I want to be seen as modern, fun & a little quirky and my wedding images to be vintage & romantic so I designed logos that I feel give off that impression. I dont want someone responsible for that, I have to stare at thing a lot so I wanted it to be something I made. I used Photoshop. Its really not hard. Then I created an action to throw them on the when Im done with all my editing. Google logos and look at a ton of them and see what you like and dislike about other logos and it will help you figure your out.

ON GETTING PAID:
If your not getting paid you should be. Its an easy sell. People like professional & nice pictures of themselves...the club will benefit in web traffic by you taking images for them & uploading to their site. I dont get a ton but enough to make it worth it for me...I get $135 for 1 hour of shooting + a $15 bar tab becuase the owners cheap lol

BTW
Anybody else in here upgrade tot he newer cameras? Nikon just came out with the 800 & Canon got the Mark III......I just got the Canon.....loving it.

Heres one of my main logos:

HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

from Saturday -

HTTP response: 400 | MIME changed to 'text/html'

HTTP response: 400 | MIME changed to 'text/html'

HTTP response: 403 | MIME changed to 'text/plain'

HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

HTTP response: 400 | MIME changed to 'text/html'

HTTP response: 400 | MIME changed to 'text/html'

HTTP response: 400 | MIME changed to 'text/html'

HTTP response: 400 | MIME changed to 'text/html'

more:
http://ross.zenfolio.c​om/p643089243