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Thread started 29 Jun 2010 (Tuesday) 01:13
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night club photos (NWS) (2)

 
Johnny010
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Dec 19, 2012 10:38 |  #4051

A small selection from the weekend, C&C always welcome:

1.

IMAGE: http://imageshack.us/a/img15/9893/mission217121244.jpg

2.
IMAGE: http://imageshack.us/a/img109/9996/mission217121236.jpg

3.
IMAGE: http://imageshack.us/a/img201/4411/mission217121254.jpg

4.
IMAGE: http://imageshack.us/a/img820/9328/mission217121291.jpg

5.
IMAGE: http://imageshack.us/a/img832/4317/mission217121299.jpg

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Ryan1524
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Dec 19, 2012 12:05 |  #4052

Johnny010 wrote in post #15384552 (external link)
Hey. I had another look, it does seem orange cast (probably due to the ambient light only). It just didnt seem to fit as it was a no flash shot...giving a different style.

Love the ones you have just posted up again. Are you shooting wide open?
I seem to be having a bit of a nightmare in a club I am doing on Saturdays and Mondays...there is loads of smoke in the main room with rotating lighting. The outside has strong orange heat lamps as well haha.


Yes, I'm shooting at 2.8 all manual. When I need depth, I push it up to 4.


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koolcreation
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Dec 19, 2012 12:20 |  #4053

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: 403 | MIME changed to 'text/plain'

5DMKII | 50mm 1.4 | 24-105 f/4 | Speedlights - Strobes |
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srika
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Dec 20, 2012 00:04 as a reply to  @ koolcreation's post |  #4054

Johnny010 wrote in post #15367187 (external link)
I am sorry Srika, but in your photos the lighting is always stunning. How are you lighting these?

Hey I'm glad to hear you like the lighting. For me it's a combination of high ISO (usually 3200 or 1600), dragging the shutter (usually 1/10-1/20) and using the bounce card with the flash.

GCWB wrote in post #15383592 (external link)
Hi guys, question for you all.

I'm about to dive into the purchase of a 5D MK III, and say goodbye to my reliable 7D. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this camera? I know Srika mentioned a few pages back that he had.

Speaking of Srika, I look forward to giving your high ISO, slow shutter combo a try. Question though, surely with that combination you're walking a thin line between motion blur and ghosting? I suppose as long as you get the right exposure you should be fine. I'll have to test it out myself.

In regard to motion blur and ghosting when dragging shutter, if you look closely at my shots, you'll be able to notice some of that. But you have to look pretty close. Here's how the process works, maybe it will help you - first of all, without a flash, these shots would look pretty dark, almost black - obviously that depends on what is going on in the background lighting. So, half-press shutter and get AF, hit the shutter, the flash goes off (I always have it set to first or second curtain - which you choose depends on how you want your light trails to look) - the shutter opens for whatever I have it set to - and during this time the ambient light is exposed - this information will be subject to motion and shake - I just try to hold the camera as still as possible but obviously there are limitations - also depends on how many drinks I've had - the second flash goes off. The subjects are frozen during the first or second flash, depending on what you have the curtain set to. Any additional blur / ghosting is possible, but minimal.

In regard to the 5D3, I haven't been using it at the club - I did try it a couple of times and I am just getting better (read: easier) results with the 1Ds3 - so that is what I'm using now. I work weekly and at this point I'm not *too* interested in experimenting, I kind of just go out, take the photos, and leave. I prefer using a tried-and-tested method that works, rather than trying to figure it out every time. The 5D3 was doing weird stuff with the flash bouncing I do. I could probably get it to work with some patience and experimenting, but for now I'm content with the results the 1D gives me. I know it sounds kinda bad but honestly that is my involvement at this time. I have also been doing other things like wedding photography and other events etc. Basically the same thing I said a couple years ago when I said I was "quitting" nightclubs lol. That extra weekly cash helps, what can I say.

The 5D3 is marvelous camera - it's just a *bit* of overkill for my uses at the club right now, that's all I'm saying. (Of course the 1D is overkill too). I could get by fine with the 5Dc if I wanted, I just love using the 1D because of the feel and focusing accuracy. It helps me do my job. Ok so I hope that helps your questions. If you have any others feel free to ask.


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GCWB
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Dec 20, 2012 07:46 |  #4055

srika wrote in post #15388265 (external link)
Hey I'm glad to hear you like the lighting. For me it's a combination of high ISO (usually 3200 or 1600), dragging the shutter (usually 1/10-1/20) and using the bounce card with the flash.

In regard to motion blur and ghosting when dragging shutter, if you look closely at my shots, you'll be able to notice some of that. But you have to look pretty close. Here's how the process works, maybe it will help you - first of all, without a flash, these shots would look pretty dark, almost black - obviously that depends on what is going on in the background lighting. So, half-press shutter and get AF, hit the shutter, the flash goes off (I always have it set to first or second curtain - which you choose depends on how you want your light trails to look) - the shutter opens for whatever I have it set to - and during this time the ambient light is exposed - this information will be subject to motion and shake - I just try to hold the camera as still as possible but obviously there are limitations - also depends on how many drinks I've had - the second flash goes off. The subjects are frozen during the first or second flash, depending on what you have the curtain set to. Any additional blur / ghosting is possible, but minimal.

In regard to the 5D3, I haven't been using it at the club - I did try it a couple of times and I am just getting better (read: easier) results with the 1Ds3 - so that is what I'm using now. I work weekly and at this point I'm not *too* interested in experimenting, I kind of just go out, take the photos, and leave. I prefer using a tried-and-tested method that works, rather than trying to figure it out every time. The 5D3 was doing weird stuff with the flash bouncing I do. I could probably get it to work with some patience and experimenting, but for now I'm content with the results the 1D gives me. I know it sounds kinda bad but honestly that is my involvement at this time. I have also been doing other things like wedding photography and other events etc. Basically the same thing I said a couple years ago when I said I was "quitting" nightclubs lol. That extra weekly cash helps, what can I say.

The 5D3 is marvelous camera - it's just a *bit* of overkill for my uses at the club right now, that's all I'm saying. (Of course the 1D is overkill too). I could get by fine with the 5Dc if I wanted, I just love using the 1D because of the feel and focusing accuracy. It helps me do my job. Ok so I hope that helps your questions. If you have any others feel free to ask.

That's fascinating. I completely understand that frame of mind with the experimentation, I've had months at a time where I've just settled with the usual techniques. Mostly because the competition in my city isn't the most intimidating. However whenever I come on here and see pictures such as yours, Daniel Watsons and Ryan, it always reminds me that there's still so much to learn.

Recently I've been interested in understanding the border between the flash freezing the motion, and the ambient overpowering, so that I can find a comfortable medium. When underexposing, should it be 2 stops down? Or 3? Or as you say you're pictures are near black without flash, should I just use this as an initial test and work it by eye?

I do have one more question if you wouldn't mind. It's in regard to your focusing techniques. Personally I delegate between spot focus for room, DJ and misc shots, and zone focus for people shots. This has proved reasonably reliable but I find zone focus falling short when people put their fingers towards the camera (grabs focus of their fingers and leaves their faces in the bokeh). So my question is do you have any suggestions in this regard, specifically do you think working people shots in spot focus is a good idea? I only worry for the second or two delay that it might take to adjust before a person shot.
I realise that I could go out and test this, but I don't have work until january. (Uni photographer)

Cheers Srika.


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srika
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Dec 20, 2012 15:31 |  #4056

One more detail I must mention - the main lens I use these days is the 17-40, wide open (f/4). That is another reason I am pushing ISO. When I sometimes use the 50 1.4, I'll be at around 1.8 or 2.0 and then I have ISO set to around 800 or so. If I use the 24-70 at 2.8, ISO will be around 1000 or 1250. Of course that changes as the aperture changes.

If you are looking to get a lot of color in your images, dragging the shutter is the way to do it. You have to balance that with exposure, aperture, ISO, flash, and the environmental lighting until you get everything "evened" out. Unfortunately these attributes have the potential to change many times during a given night, purely depending on the venue. So you always have to be ready to make small adjustments to the formula based on where you are and what you're shooting. So many variables!

I will get to your other questions in a bit.


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srika
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Dec 20, 2012 15:33 |  #4057

srika wrote in post #15390661 (external link)
If you are looking to get a lot of color in your images, dragging the shutter is the way to do it.

addendum: another way to do it is with a fast lens... but obviously one of the shortcomings of using a fast lens is the DOF.. which at many times is not useful at the club, especially when you are doing people and group photos.


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PalulaJ
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Dec 20, 2012 17:01 |  #4058

Hey! I have an End of the World concert that I was hired for and have never done such work. Is there a particular flash that works best for this type of work? I'm concerned with all the lighting I can not control. Thanks!




  
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GCWB
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Dec 20, 2012 17:02 |  #4059

srika wrote in post #15390664 (external link)
addendum: another way to do it is with a fast lens... but obviously one of the shortcomings of using a fast lens is the DOF.. which at many times is not useful at the club, especially when you are doing people and group photos.

Colour is definitely my favourite part about night club photography, that, and the people. When I see a photograph in low light with a completely black background it makes me shiver. My most hated part is pictures of groups. 4+ people ruin the lighting, as it forces me to step back (7D crop frame prevents me from getting close with my 16-35mm, that will change with the 5D course) thus ending up with flat, harsh lighting.

Personally I daren't go below an aperture of f/3.5. Experience has taught me it's too risky with my current focusing methods, of which I am currently reviewing. f/4 has been my most reliable number. I have the ability to push it to f/2.8 but only do that if the situation allows.

If you'd like to get a better idea of my photography, or have the time for a quick critique, I'd be more than grateful.
My work facebook: https://www.facebook.c​om/Gdesignfcbk (external link)
However I more than understand if you don't have the time.

I should definitely stop leaving long messages such as these. It is a photographic forum after all. Here are a few from my last couple nights. Nice opportunity with the in-club snow machines.

IMAGE: http://imageshack.us/a/img341/7012/forum1of5.jpg

IMAGE: http://imageshack.us/a/img706/7227/forum2of5.jpg

IMAGE: http://imageshack.us/a/img829/2902/forum3of5.jpg

IMAGE: http://imageshack.us/a/img827/875/forum4of5.jpg

IMAGE: http://imageshack.us/a/img827/2913/forum5of5.jpg

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Johnny010
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Dec 21, 2012 07:09 |  #4060

Love those. Kinda thing I am aiming for (see above). I hope to be an owner of a full frame in the future haha.
The quality you get is amazing! That the 7D you say? From your sig I am guessing with the canon 16-35mm?


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danielwatson
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Dec 21, 2012 09:07 |  #4061

Johnny010 wrote in post #15384552 (external link)
loads of smoke in the main room with rotating lighting

Think I know exactly which lights you mean - so annoying! The reason I take 90% of my shots in the other room!


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MojeIme
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Dec 23, 2012 00:25 as a reply to  @ danielwatson's post |  #4062

Great photos GCWB. Love the flashless one's with the fake snow.

New flash and triggers are at mail customs. I really hope I get them on Monday.
More off camera lighting after that :)

Tuesday will be interesting because the club where I'm the in house photographer will be bringing in some extra lights for a big party. I really hope the boss will like how the photos turn out and will do something to brighten up the place :)

One from this week

IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8363/8292427499_8527d4fd53_b.jpg
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Cherrylime Companeros (external link) by Tit Bonač (external link), on Flickr

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mr. ­ fish
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Dec 23, 2012 02:34 |  #4063

Matthoffart wrote in post #15277809 (external link)
Canon shooters! What is your fisheye preference?

I shoot Canon 1D series bodies, and my main nightclub glass is a Canon 17-35 2.8.

I'm using a sigma 10mm at the momment on a 1D3. I'd recommend it. Small cropping needed to get rid of the vig tho.


1D Mk3 | 1D Mk2 | Eos 30D | 28-70 f/2.8L | 70-200 f/2.8L | 400 f/2.8L IS | Sigma 10mm f/2.8 Fisheye | 430 EXII | 580 EXII
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stuart_hatch
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Dec 23, 2012 04:34 as a reply to  @ mr. fish's post |  #4064

Slightly off topic!

I'm visiting LA, San Fran and Vegas next month and I'm looking for recommendations of what clubs to go to.

It's myself and two mates, who like dance/pop music and are ages between 25-27.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!


Canon 40D, 60D + 430 EXII with Stofen + 580EX II with Quick Bounce + +Orbis Ring Flash + Sigma 10-20 + Canon 70-300 + 50mm 1.8 + Canon 28-135 IS

  
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Kyeol58
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Dec 24, 2012 00:31 |  #4065

Hey guys I'm not sure if this has been covered in the thread (too many pages for me to check D: ) but can some of you tell me how much you are getting for a nights work?

Also,
I am new to club photography and being paid very little. (Australia-Sydney)
I also believe my work is much better than the current photographers work but they dont really compliment me or give me any hints about replacing him with me.
I am not trying to be cocky, I am only new and I hope to learn alot from shooting casually but the current guy is...pretty bad.

do you guys think it'd be fair to upload a comparison for education sake? if it is I'll just upload my own, I hope you guys can crit it for me as I really dont know if its a good style.


Canon 6D / 50D / 17-40 / 50mm 1.4 / 70-300 4-5.6 VC

  
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night club photos (NWS) (2)
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