jacobsen1 wrote in post #10518339
Jack, funny you post oyster shots, we were clamming (quahogging) all week out at Block Island!
Necks? Cherrystones? When people 'quahog' here, they mean chowder grade commercial dredging destined for Progresso or Campbell Soup. Don't you have like half bushel limit per day in RI? Hand raked cherrystones from cultured stock were next to oysters, but they were not on my shoot list...
Back to 7D-low ISO noise. More I use 7D, more I like its rugged responsiveness and focusing. I had it out doing heat and drought, from truck roof, getting wet - with my version of wide angle (use normal lens and crop (haha).
http://postit.rutgers.edu …t%5FIrrig%5FCorn%5F63.jpg
http://postit.rutgers.edu …t%5FIrrig%5FCorn%5F62.jpg
1. Every image was 0.3-0.4 -EV from best exposure; needed boost. Just does. Proper 7D + exposure in neutral tones = low ISO noise not a problem in most situations.
2. No blocked up shadows deep in rows, nor highlight retention problems. 7D doing excellent job.
3. The AF system is bees knees. I shot all over center pivot. 7D AF system, any AF point I chose, picked out single low pressure drop nozzle emitters in low contrast mist. Frequently, 1D over responds, quickly jumping to background when it can't find a contrasty target.
4. Camera got wet with no problems.
5. Sweet corn & steamed clams eat well together.
With 7D noise solved to my satisfaction, problem becomes how to do decent wide angle with APS-C field of view camera?
Not my strong point. I'm thinking, after looking at your shots, of picking up Tokina 12-24 f/4. It will work on a 1D from about 15mm. I do not like variable aperture zooms. Will pick up where 24-105L IS leaves off. 24-105 is my most used outdoor and event workhorse, on 7D APS-C or 1D.
Makes no difference the format, 24-105 lens, on any body, properly frames what I see and need filling the VF, fast. I busted it once. I read forum drivel about needing full 35mm frame, framing issues on crop cameras, blah blah. Just not a problem.
What is a problem is companion wide angle. Only reason to make a wide angle shot is "pull the viewer into the frame." That means getting close to something, having a foreground anchor, to distort perspective, while showing the rest of a receding scene.
That means a satisfactory cropper wide angle lens should:
- zoom,
- focus close,
- have good native max magnification at close focus (e.g. > 0.2x),
- have a constant aperture,
- take filters for protection from elements.
- not need stopping down to f/5.6-8 to yield good photos.
Is this too much to ask from a WA lens? Canon 16-35mm f/2.8L does this for 35mm cameras. I use it on my 1D; never feel limited, like: http://aesop.rutgers.edu …es/Organic_Alfalfa_11.htm
Sticky plant sap alfalfa fragments flailing about stuck to lens, camera, filter. Took me half an hour to clean it.
I borrowed a Canon 10-22mm. Way too wide, for me. I could not frame with it. Irritated me. Variable aperture. Likewise, Sigma 8-16 is way too wide, and too slow. Maybe not for landscapes, but I can't use it. Too much wasted viewfinder real estate.
That leaves Tokina 12-24mm f/4 to try, except that it has mediocre native max magnification at close focus. You ever try this Tokina?
Even here, the widest I needed was 23mm on a crop camera:
http://aesop.rutgers.edu …ides/VikingVillage_04.htm
Finally, what young people will do digging shellfish in name of science. These are 1970s scans from slides, EktaChromes, because I had trouble color balancing:
http://postit.rutgers.edu …FShellfish%5FLab%5F01.jpg
http://postit.rutgers.edu …FShellfish%5FLab%5F31.jpg
Part of a set on breeding oysters against MSX disease.
Enjoy, Jack
