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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Visual Enjoyment Architecture, Real-Estate & Buildings 
Thread started 15 Jul 2010 (Thursday) 14:37
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A thread for real estate, architectural, and interior design photography

 
mikekelley
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Apr 21, 2011 13:19 |  #1906

itsmejson wrote in post #12266848 (external link)
Hey everyone,

I currently have a cropped body w/ 10-22 - I'm planning to switch to a full frame in the next mos or so and was wondering what lens would you guys recommend to pair up the full frame body w/?
- when I make the switch I'd only have a 50mm. Would a 24mm be enough or would I have to put up and fund for canon L 16-xx?

thanks in adv guys

16-35 is overkill for RE photography on full frame. i'd go with a 17-40 and $30 for a program to correct the barrel distortion, or a tilt shift L if you can swing it.


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mikekelley
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Apr 21, 2011 13:20 |  #1907

BEphoto wrote in post #12267001 (external link)
Random question. I'm still getting used to photomatix (as well as testing the water with other HDR software). When you guys are shooting interiors, how are you white balancing in camera for HDR? Also, would it be beneficial to shoot one shot with a grey card in the scene so that you could click white balance later, or would that not matter after merging them into an HDR anyway. It just seems like most stuff that I've been shooting lately at home is getting a really bad yellowish color cast throughout, regardless of how I WB in camera.

I've got a grey card sitting around from my film days and just figured i may as well put it to good use if i can easily color correct using it later.

Thanks! I'm sure i'll be shooting more questions at you guys soon as I try to perfect this interior stuff!I'm happy with about 95% of it, just color correction is driving me crazy. Never seems to look just right.

I generally balance for sunlight when shooting for photomatix and add a flash frame in later. I set the flash frame to 'color' blend mode in photoshop and layer it over the HDR blend. Ta-da, perfect white balance every time.


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mikekelley
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Apr 21, 2011 13:21 |  #1908

joonrhee wrote in post #12262812 (external link)
Thanks for sharing the video Mike! Very kind of you.


No problem! Now that i have the software expect me to do a lot more of it, and hopefully the quality gets better :lol:

Organic Treats wrote in post #12262835 (external link)
Awesome Mike. I love time-lapses. I actually just learned channels and "blend if" a week ago. Amazes me how many tools and techniques there are in PS.

I still struggle with channel masks. It's hard to wrap your head around sometimes how many options are at your disposal in PS.

apixelintime wrote in post #12265746 (external link)
Blend if?? Something new to learn about...

Yep - double click the layer and mess with the sliders at the bottom of the dialogue box.


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itsmejson
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Apr 21, 2011 14:21 |  #1909

TheReal7 wrote in post #12266956 (external link)
If you have the budget....a 17mm TS-E and a 24mm TS-E would be your top choices for RE/Architectural.

yeah definitely not in the budget lol

mikekelley wrote in post #12267027 (external link)
16-35 is overkill for RE photography on full frame. i'd go with a 17-40 and $30 for a program to correct the barrel distortion, or a tilt shift L if you can swing it.

thx for the input - i just saw the 17-40 priced nicely for used copies i'll go that route.
for the barrel distortion program would photoshop cs5 work or ptlens?


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mikekelley
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Apr 21, 2011 14:30 |  #1910

ptlens or lensfix CL both have presets - not sure about cs5, but ptlens and lensfixCL have plugins for aperture and lightroom and one keystroke fixes the distortion for a shot. much easier than going to the PS route.


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TGrundvig
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Apr 21, 2011 15:16 |  #1911

BEphoto wrote in post #12267001 (external link)
Random question. I'm still getting used to photomatix (as well as testing the water with other HDR software). When you guys are shooting interiors, how are you white balancing in camera for HDR? Also, would it be beneficial to shoot one shot with a grey card in the scene so that you could click white balance later, or would that not matter after merging them into an HDR anyway. It just seems like most stuff that I've been shooting lately at home is getting a really bad yellowish color cast throughout, regardless of how I WB in camera.

I've got a grey card sitting around from my film days and just figured i may as well put it to good use if i can easily color correct using it later.

Thanks! I'm sure i'll be shooting more questions at you guys soon as I try to perfect this interior stuff!I'm happy with about 95% of it, just color correction is driving me crazy. Never seems to look just right.

This issue is just one more reason I am liking SNS-HDR better and better. When the image appears you have several Tone Mapping Preset. I select the one that is closest to what I want, then I can adjust shadows, recover highlights, etc. But, the best tool of all is the color control. All you have to do is hover your mouse over the color cast that you do not want and to the right it shows you exactly where that color is in the spectrum. I grab it and pull it down just a tad. Instant WB correction. You can also use it to tone done any blue color cast from the sky as well. Heck, you could adjust over a dozen different colors in saturation and brightness. I am really, really liking this program. I am working on a few test HDR shots I did. When I get them done I will post them. It creates clean lines around the windows and just enough window view to look natural but not like a painting, which is the way it is supposed to look.

In PM you simply do not have this option. In stead, you have to adjust the WB for each image individually, save them as tiffs, then load them into PM. Too much time! It is much easier to get a final image and have complete control over all the colors. If for some reason I can't change a color, like blue color cast because it will change the sky, then I create a warming filter layer in PS and get rid of the blue that may be on the floor or something.


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TGrundvig
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Apr 21, 2011 15:17 |  #1912

mikekelley wrote in post #12267470 (external link)
ptlens or lensfix CL both have presets - not sure about cs5, but ptlens and lensfixCL have plugins for aperture and lightroom and one keystroke fixes the distortion for a shot. much easier than going to the PS route.

CS5 has the ability to pick the camera model and lens and auto-correct. If you make an Action of it, it is pretty simple and quick.


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TGrundvig
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Apr 21, 2011 15:19 |  #1913

mikekelley wrote in post #12267032 (external link)
I generally balance for sunlight when shooting for photomatix and add a flash frame in later. I set the flash frame to 'color' blend mode in photoshop and layer it over the HDR blend. Ta-da, perfect white balance every time.

This is the approach I use when I use Enfuse as part of my work flow.


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TGrundvig
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Apr 21, 2011 15:21 |  #1914

mikekelley wrote in post #12267040 (external link)
I still struggle with channel masks. It's hard to wrap your head around sometimes how many options are at your disposal in PS.

Do you know of an online tutorial that shows what you are talking about here? I am not familiar with the 'blend if' by name. It may be something I understand and I just don't know the name of it. But, if not, I would like to learn more.

Thanks!


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DJCronin28
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Apr 21, 2011 19:02 |  #1915

Awesome time lapse Mike! I will be using that knowledge here soon.. You're the man, thanks for putting it up!

I don't know if any of you have any insight as to how to achieve the white-washed look they use in pretty much every picture in Dwell magazine- I kind of like that look for some instances and am not quite sure how they process it. It seems like it could either be done with layers and the offset slider in the exposure adjustment or just adding a solid white/light grey fill layer and adjusting opacity??


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mikekelley
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Apr 22, 2011 20:54 |  #1916

Thanks DJC - not a problem, if you guys like it i'll do some more.

I think the white washed look is partly a result of the paper they print on. I've seen it too, and it looks different in print than it does online.


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mikekelley
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Apr 23, 2011 01:07 |  #1917

TGrundvig wrote in post #12267707 (external link)
Do you know of an online tutorial that shows what you are talking about here? I am not familiar with the 'blend if' by name. It may be something I understand and I just don't know the name of it. But, if not, I would like to learn more.

Thanks!

Double click the layer- it will then come up at the bottom of the dialog box. i can't help you much with a tutorial, as i really just learned by playing around with it - it's pretty self explanatory.

basically - i set it to 'blend if' green or something, and the trees pop through the new sky because they're green. granted i'm really simplifying it here, but it's hard to explain - much easier to just fiddle with until it looks good, thats what i do at least :lol:


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Apr 23, 2011 04:42 |  #1918

Do you think that the Samyang 14mm on FF would be too wide to do RE photography?


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Apr 23, 2011 10:38 |  #1919

cvt01 wrote in post #12276800 (external link)
Do you think that the Samyang 14mm on FF would be too wide to do RE photography?

Yes. 17mm is more than enough on FF. It doesn't seem like much, but the different between 12mm on a crop sensor and 17mm of FF are very noticeable. The 12mm on a crop sensor is actually like 19.2mm. And that set up has served me very well for almost 4 years. I just recently moved up to the FF and use it with my 17-40. There are a lot of shots where 17mm is too wide and I zoom in a bit.


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Apr 23, 2011 11:22 as a reply to  @ post 12267001 |  #1920

Mike, think you could show my how to create an image like that in 2 minutes, 4 seconds? :)

On a serious note, how did you guys learn all this stuff in Photoshop? I recently acquired CS4, and when I registered I opted for the Lynda.com 30 trial. I watched a bunch of videos, but I watched so much, that I retained very little.

Is Lynda.com a site worth subscribing? Or would you guys recommend Youtube tutorials, or a certain book, or seminar, etc.

Thanks for the inspiration.


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