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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 25 Jul 2010 (Sunday) 15:47
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Help, I'm about to pour Isopropyl alcohol into my 30D!

 
folville
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Jul 25, 2010 15:47 |  #1

My 30D, like many others (external link), has a faulty shutter button (likely from corrosion, dirt, oils, etc seeping into the shutter button assembly). Because Canon demands several hundred dollars for the fix, and I'm not confident stripping the body down, I've stumbled upon another route that just may work.

Apparently, some users have reported success by pouring a spoonful of pure isopropyl alcohol into the battery compartment (external link) and letting it run through to the shutter button, pressing and twisting the button while the alcohol runs through.

The pure alcohol should not damage circuitry because it does not conduct electricity. I am slightly concerned that it will only solve the corrosion without actually removing it, perhaps worsening the problem.

It sounds a bit mad, and I don't doubt that more effective (but riskier or expensive) options exist. However, I'm selling the camera to a friend who's about to leave the country and cannot wait for an authorized repair. Plus, money is tight.

Has anyone done this before?


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Kafn8td
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Jul 25, 2010 16:57 |  #2

I've seen isopropyl used on other electronics before. You can also go down to Radio Shack and get a zero wash product which is safe on plastics and electronics.




  
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Wilt
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Jul 25, 2010 17:20 |  #3

Household IPA is not pure IPA like what is used industrially. Household IPA has water, and that itself may be the source of problems internal to the camera. If you can lay your hands on 100% IPS from a pharmacist, that might work, but I strongly suggest no using ordinary household over-the-counter IPA.

You might simply want to take advantage of Canon USA 'loyalty program' and get a factory refurb 50D body using the dead 30D in exchange for the discounted purchase.


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canonloader
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Jul 25, 2010 17:32 |  #4

I want to pass on something my brother told me. He worked as a slot tech in Reno, went to school for it and spent 20 years doing it. Because everyone was a smoker then, and the slots were not hermetically sealed, they got coated in smoke eventually. Instead of sending them out or buying that expensive cleaner, they just washed them, in warm soapy water. Yes, those green motherboard looking things. They dipped them in a tank with warm soapy water then rinsed them in warm clean water.

The secret is to let them dry for 24 hours before running any juice through them.

I'd say, do it. Make sure you take both batteries out first. Maybe use some canned air to blow the alcohol through, which might help with the particles washed out too.


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dave ­ kadolph
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Jul 25, 2010 17:39 as a reply to  @ Wilt's post |  #5

If you have a Grainger, Fastenal, or Graybar branch locally try and find a product called CRC Contact Cleaner 2000.

It's what we use on PLC cards that make the cost of a Canon body look like a drop in the bucket.


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folville
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Jul 25, 2010 17:45 |  #6

Thanks for the replies: I'm going to use 99% pure isopropyl or higher; it's the only thing I would feel relatively comfortable putting through the camera.

If you have a Grainger, Fastenal, or Graybar branch locally try and find a product called CRC Contact Cleaner 2000.

Sorry, I don't believe we have any other these within reach.

About the Canon loyalty program, I've heard from others a trade-in on a 30D might bring the 50D price down to about $600 or so. That's not bad, but unfortunately, it's well outside the range of what I can afford on this repair (hence the alcohol).

I hate treading uncharted waters, but I'll probably go through with it tomorrow afternoon: I'll return with a full report.


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splbound
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Jul 26, 2010 07:41 as a reply to  @ folville's post |  #7

I would definitely try to get hold of some residue free contact cleaner before pouring IPA into it.

At least with the spray contact cleaners + tube nozzle you can hold the camera upside down and spray the crap out of the switch area. Any excess fluid will then drain down and out and not into the body.

** Edit **

OOps scratch that just saw the vid, you are going through the battery compartment..
I would still source and try the contact cleaner first.

Oh yeah don't forget to pull the button CR battery out as well.

Good luck!




  
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folville
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Jul 26, 2010 09:02 |  #8

Thanks for the tips, everyone. I'll be sure to record video of this venture, and post photos (hopefully from the newly functional 30D).


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rklepper
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Jul 26, 2010 12:01 |  #9

We can get that at the local auto parts store. Great stuff.

dave kadolph wrote in post #10601476 (external link)
If you have a Grainger, Fastenal, or Graybar branch locally try and find a product called CRC Contact Cleaner 2000.

It's what we use on PLC cards that make the cost of a Canon body look like a drop in the bucket.


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ImRaptor
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Jul 26, 2010 13:22 |  #10

dave kadolph wrote in post #10601476 (external link)
If you have a Grainger, Fastenal, or Graybar branch locally try and find a product called CRC Contact Cleaner 2000.

It's what we use on PLC cards that make the cost of a Canon body look like a drop in the bucket.

That stuff is awesome.
We've got some at work that I just used recently to clean off some thermal compound from a heatsink, and it made very short work of it and left an absolutely spotless surface. Works considerably better than plain iso for cleaning PCBs.


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saea501
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Jul 26, 2010 14:02 |  #11

folville wrote in post #10600993 (external link)
My 30D, like many others (external link), has a faulty shutter button (likely from corrosion, dirt, oils, etc seeping into the shutter button assembly). Because Canon demands several hundred dollars for the fix, and I'm not confident stripping the body down, I've stumbled upon another route that just may work.

Apparently, some users have reported success by pouring a spoonful of pure isopropyl alcohol into the battery compartment (external link) and letting it run through to the shutter button, pressing and twisting the button while the alcohol runs through.

The pure alcohol should not damage circuitry because it does not conduct electricity. I am slightly concerned that it will only solve the corrosion without actually removing it, perhaps worsening the problem.

It sounds a bit mad, and I don't doubt that more effective (but riskier or expensive) options exist. However, I'm selling the camera to a friend who's about to leave the country and cannot wait for an authorized repair. Plus, money is tight.

Has anyone done this before?

Not sure where you got that. Not only is it electrically conductive, it's flammable.

Get some decent contact cleaner. Dielectric, non flammable and no residue. Do it the right way.


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Jul 26, 2010 14:07 as a reply to  @ saea501's post |  #12

Keep in mind that there might be some lubricating grease somewhere in there that could get cleaned away with your endeavor. but then again, if it bricks you always have an excuse to buy a new body!


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kgaler
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Jul 26, 2010 14:37 as a reply to  @ dwarfcow's post |  #13

I'm a EE and wash PCB's with soap/water all the time, BUT, I know if all the parts on the PCB are washable. You can't know that. I also use pure alcohol depending on the flux type but still some parts are not washable. When the PCB's are made the non-washable parts they are covered to prevent the liquid from getting in them.

So it will be risky but if you try it make sure that you shake it out well and then put in your electric oven with the door open on the broil position. Set the temp to NO MORE than about 100 - 110DegF. Use a thermometer to make sure it doesn't go any higher and melt your camera. Leave it there for about an hour to make sure it's completely dried out. Let it cool before adding the batteries and turning it on. (Oh yeah, make sure you take out the batteries.)

Good Luck


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basman007
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Jul 26, 2010 15:07 |  #14

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mattia
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Jul 26, 2010 18:19 |  #15

All alcohol has water it in; as soon as it's exposed to any normal air, your likelihood of having anything purer than 95% is just about zero.


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Help, I'm about to pour Isopropyl alcohol into my 30D!
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