Was the T2i a mistake?

NothingRemains10 wrote in post #10672299
So now this thread is going to turn into a bash the intelligence of people thread..nice

just lock it and be done with it!

you really need to learn a little more though, you ask the same questions in many different threads and people eventually catch on, most of the time is what's already been discovered...... USER ERROR!

Joe Ravenstein wrote in post #10670363
Just so you know where I am coming from I was/am a professional mechanic and there is a phrase that sums up my views on user issues "it is a poor machanic that blames the tools" I have observed that most problems that are blamed on the camera are not the cameras fault but the user not understanding what their responsibilities are in taking an in focus shot. Manual focus would teach a lot of users how to properly focus on the subject instead of expecting the camera to know what you are wanting to be in focus. Film shooters are aware of this but digital has provided the masses with AF and relatively few ever even attempt manual focus and B---tch if the image isn't crystal clear. I will now step down from my rant pedestal. BTW I love my T2i and the results I get from it if I do my part.

The problem with current dSLRs is that they are not made for manual focus. The focusing screens/viewfinders are not designed for manual focus, which is why folks turn to third party focusing screen makers to turn their camera into a manual focus camera.

NothingRemains10 wrote in post #10672299
So now this thread is going to turn into a bash the intelligence of people thread..nice

happens all the time. just take the time to read the manual and practice.

NothingRemains10 wrote in post #10672299
So now this thread is going to turn into a bash the intelligence of people thread..nice

Absolutely not but you have to accept that 99% of the problems you are having is your technique and lack of understanding and knowledge of what you are doing.

enrigonz wrote in post #10672318
you really need to learn a little more though, you ask the same questions in many different threads and people eventually catch on, most of the time is what's already been discovered...... USER ERROR!

Could not agree more.
Your question has already been answered several times in these threads that you started
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=905530
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=851641
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=862993
but you still keep asking the same question in a different way.
Unfortunately for you, the answer is the same - it doesn't have different variations and you don't like it because it stings.
Well that's what happens in the real world. There is no red carpet, soft landing or welcome mat.

Instead of trying to eat the elephant all at once, cut it up and eat it one bite at a time. You'll find it's tastier, more satisfying and you'll enjoy the experience a whole lot more.
People here are willing to help, but at the same time you have to do most of the work to help yourself. We cant set the camera for you or push the shutter. Only you can do that.

If you want someone to tell you that you made a mistake getting the T2i and you should have bought the 7D then ok, I'll do it.

You made a mistake getting the T2i and you should have bought a 7D so you better go and hand over the cash for one.

A word of warning though, the 7D has a much steeper learning curve than the T2i so I wouldn't expect your results to be any different to what they are now.
They'll just be the same thing from a more expensive camera, but if you are happy with that then that's fine.
But...I guarantee you'll be back here witin 24 hours asking the same things you've already asked and had answered.

If you haven't already done it, pick up the wad of papers that is an accessory called the "User Manual" and read it. Once you've finished it, read it again, then again.
Re read "Understanding Exposure" until you know it backwards. It's useless to you just sitting on the shelf.
After 30 years of this stuff, I still refer to my updated copy (the third edition I have bought over the years)
When you don't have your head buried in either of these two text books, go out and take photos - lots of them. It's called practice and learning.
You'll be amazed at what happens to your photos.

NR10...

You asked for advice and as far as I can see, that's pretty much what you got and pretty good advice at that.

The Canon xxxD/Rebel series cameras are pretty decent and well capable of catching some great images if used with decent glass and technique. Just keep practicing. Keep asking questions. Enjoy photography....

Phil is being blunt, but straight to the point - and I agree with what he said. The T2i wasn't a mistake, but getting a 7D most likely would be. It's far more advanced, has more settings and is easier to get wrong unless you put the time into reading the manual, researching the camera and getting everything set up right for what you're trying to shoot. Read through all the "My 7D won't focus" threads here and you'll see that a lot of people are having problems with it - the vast majority of which can be attributed to user error.

You've gotten a lot of good advice in this thread, as well as the other three similar threads that Phil linked to...time to sit down with the manual and your Understanding Exposure book and put some effort into learning your camera and the basics of exposure. A new camera isn't the answer, and would probably only make things worse for you at this point.

When I sit down at the computer to view my images after shooting and I see something screwed up, my first thought is "What did I do wrong?", not "What's wrong with my camera?". I study the picture, look at my EXIF to see what my settings were, and try to figure out what I did to screw up the shot....then figure out what I need to change next time so I don't screw it up again. That's how you learn and improve. Blaming the camera takes a lot less effort and thought, but it also means you're not learning anything from your mistakes. Replacing the camera (unless it truly is faulty) just means you'll make the same mistakes with the new one and end up with the same results in your images.

John Sheehy wrote in post #10669767
That's what auto-ISO is for. It was made for manual exposure mode, IMO. It is rather crippled in current Canons, but hopefully Canon will get it right in future cameras or firmware upgrades (not likely, given their stingy history).

Could you expand on what you mean by "rather crippled"?

NothingRemains10 wrote in post #10672299
So now this thread is going to turn into a bash the intelligence of people thread..nice

Not at all. I, amongst others want you to succeed! We know how frustrating it can be when one is starting, and as one that struggled for years with film SLRs with little (or no) advice, no broadband (or POTN) I found it very frustrating - not to mention expensive. Now, I take better photos than then, but still no where near the standard of many on this forum and I want to improve.

My film SLRs were no where near as complex as the DSLRs these days - the manual really does need to be read to get the best out of them!

Please, take the advice given, it is kindly meant, even if we sometimes get frustrated at having to repeat the same things over and over - remember, it will be you being frustrated at other newbs as you progress!

SkipD wrote in post #10662381
If you actually want to learn the basics of photography, it would help GREATLY if you would turn off all of the automation in your camera and do everything with the exposure dial set to "M" (Manual). If you have a lens that you can focus manually without too much problem (and many of the "kit" lenses suck wind for manual focus), I suggest using manual focus as well. Once you have mastered the basics in manual, then start going back to some of the camera's automation (one item at a time) and learn how to control the camera's "thinking".

This.

And, especially, learn to use the spot meter. Once you have the spot meter figured out, you almost certainly won't want to use anything else for the vast majority of your shots, because spot metering makes it so easy to get the most important thing (to you) in the frame exposed exactly how you want it to be.

When learning metering, shoot in black and white. It'll teach you more about how the camera sees colors and maps them to tones than anything else. Shoot in RAW and the resulting images can be in color if you want, but you want the rear display to show a black and white image so you can get instant feedback on roughly how the tones map to the exposure settings.


If you are having trouble with focusing, then take some controlled test shots of a still subject in daylight with the camera on a tripod. If the focus is off under those conditions then your camera will probably need calibration.

The rest (composition, effects of shutter speed and aperture and ISO, postprocessing techniques, etc.) is up to you to learn through reading and experimentation. For learning composition, post shots for critique, but you probably shouldn't do that until you have the other fundamentals (exposure, depth of field, shutter speed, etc.) figured out.

DirePenguin wrote in post #10674104
Could you expand on what you mean by "rather crippled"?

Mainly the lack of auto-ISO when flash is enabled, and the lack of auto-ISO in M mode on the 5D2. The 7D and 5D2 have no user-definable limits, and no Canon, AFAIK, has an option to allow the shutter speed to increase in Tv-pri and M mode to avoid blowing out highlights.

Imagine this; you're used to being able to enable flash, and all it does is add flash to the exposure. Now, take a 7D and use it with auto-ISO where you need ISO 1600 or 3200, then decide to turn the flash on, and presto! You have a bunch of ruined shots at ISO 400. Then, you have to change the ISO to 1600 or 3200 to get the exposure you need. Then, you point the camera at a brighter spot and presto! Blown shots. So much fun, Canon "auto-ISO" is!

John Sheehy wrote in post #10675660
Imagine this; you're used to being able to enable flash, and all it does is add flash to the exposure. Now, take a 7D and use it with auto-ISO where you need ISO 1600 or 3200, then decide to turn the flash on, and presto! You have a bunch of ruined shots at ISO 400. Then, you have to change the ISO to 1600 or 3200 to get the exposure you need. Then, you point the camera at a brighter spot and presto! Blown shots. So much fun, Canon "auto-ISO" is!

Ahh, I see. I haven't tried using my T2i in Auto-ISO with flash, yet.

Hi,

I haven't read the last couple of pages of this thread, so I apologize if I keep repeating what has already been said. I remember being similarly frustrated a few years back after I had switched from P&S to my first DSLR. The images seemed softer and less colorful, they were flat and lacking contrast, etc. It took me a while to realize that that wasn't the camera's fault, but that it is simply more difficult (but also more rewarding) to operate a DSLR. Moreover, I also realized that, even though some people don't like to hear it, PP work is absolutely necessary. Here are a couple of things that might help you:

- Glass matters. After shooting with my kit lens for a while, I bought a 50mm f/1.8 II. The difference in sharpness is unbelievable.
- PP matters. RAW files absolutely have to be postprocessed. Head over to the PP section of this forum; there's a thread where people post their RAW conversions. I think you will find that in many cases a lot of the final "quality" or "look" (for lack of better words) comes from the conversion, and not the image itself. You will see that many unprocessed files do not look spectacular at all - the conversions, however, often do.
- While the reciprocal rule is a good rule of thumb to eliminate blur, I find that for me I usually need a bit faster shutter speeds to make absolutely sure I don't get blur - I guess I'm a bit clumsy and can't hold my hands too steady. Often, very slight blur might not even be perceived as actual motion blur, especially when you don't look at the picture at 100%. Rather, there is just a slight bit of loss in detail and definition. Maybe that was also one of your problems.
- When focusing, always, and I really do mean always, use the AF point in the center. If sharpness in a particular shot REALLY matters, you might even use LiveView. I always had my first DSLR on automatic AF, and never paid too much attention to it. And, of course, many shots lacked that punchy sharpness people like. It really does make a difference.
- Proper exposure. I assume that goes pretty much without saying, but in case you are not too familiar with the 550D's metering modes (again, I'm not implying you aren't, I just don't know your background), take a look at them. I know that many people like evaluating metering, but I found that I often have to customize it a bit.

I hope that helps.

"I bought the T2i as my first digital camera, and it just seems the pictures and focus issues I keep having are preventing me from getting a good majority of the shots I attempt. Was the 7D the right choice and I failed?"

I have a 40D and a T2i. I have absolutely no issues with the focus on the T2i and have just as many keepers.
You should rent a 7D and check it out. Make your decision based on the comparison of the two.