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Thread started 12 Aug 2010 (Thursday) 14:54
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Manual mode? really? how ...

 
mike_d
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Aug 12, 2010 17:31 |  #16

copenhagen69 wrote in post #10710356 (external link)
yep how to ... I have been struggling getting that super crisp photo like it seems the auto can do.

I just hear everyone say manual all the way. you get better pics that way blah blah and so on..

Lots of people advocate manual exposure but I don't see many pushing manual focus unless they're using manual focus lenses.

In your first picture, it doesn't look like anything is in focus. Usually if you miss focus manually, you'll at least be close and something will be in the focus plane.




  
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SkipD
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Aug 12, 2010 17:34 |  #17

mike_d wrote in post #10710515 (external link)
Lots of people advocate manual exposure but I don't see many pushing manual focus unless they're using manual focus lenses.

I use manual focus quite often for fine touchup after getting rough focus by activating autofocus with the * button on the back of my 20D. All of my lenses, though, are "L" class zoom lenses which have MUCH better focus controls than any of the EF-S series lenses I have handled.


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number ­ six
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Aug 12, 2010 17:36 |  #18

copenhagen69 wrote in post #10710356 (external link)
yep how to ... I have been struggling getting that super crisp photo like it seems the auto can do.

I just hear everyone say manual all the way. you get better pics that way blah blah and so on..

You don't hear me saying that!

I'm no stranger to manual focus and exposure, since that was the only way when I started 40 years ago.

I find I sometimes want to focus manually when shooting macro, but otherwise I've generally found the autofocus is better than I am. The exception may be when I'm using a tripod and shooting a still subject.

But decide for yourself.

As gonzogolf said earlier, you're at a big disadvantage with your XS's tiny dark viewfinder. Take a look at a manual focus camera from the dark ages and you'll see a much brighter scene - larger, too.

And then there's your lens. The 18-55 IS is an amazing lens for its price, very good optics. But the focus ring is touchy and it doesn't have much rotation. Both of these make manual focusing an ordeal.

While you're looking at that dark-ages camera, notice the feel of the focus ring. Very smooth and about twice the travel of our autofocus lenses.

Like I said, most of the time autofocus is better than I am.

-js


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Aug 12, 2010 17:37 |  #19

I'm a bit confused, you want to manually focus or manually set exposure, or both?


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Aug 12, 2010 17:41 |  #20

number six wrote in post #10710542 (external link)
I find I sometimes want to focus manually when shooting macro, but otherwise I've generally found the autofocus is better than I am. The exception may be when I'm using a tripod and shooting a still subject.

Same here. I only resort to manual focus when the autofocus fails, usually in low light, for macro, or like when I was trying to shoot a spider and its web and the autofocus wanted to focus on the shrubs 30' away in the background.




  
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bdpaco
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Aug 12, 2010 17:45 |  #21

Manual exposure (camera in M) is what requires adjusting settings..ISO, Shutter speed and aperture...Manual focus (MF on the lens) only requires moving the focus ring...hopefully you arent getting the two confused...you can use one without the other...while you are manually focusing if you hold the shutter halfway down the center point will flash when you are in focus....


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number ­ six
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Aug 12, 2010 17:47 |  #22

It seems to me that anyone looking at the two pics posted by the OP will realize that he is indeed talking about manual focus. The exposures are the same.

-js


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D ­ Thompson
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Aug 12, 2010 17:48 |  #23

copenhagen69 wrote in post #10710356 (external link)
I just hear everyone say manual all the way. you get better pics that way blah blah and so on..

They're probably talking about manual as far as setting exposure, not manual as in focusing.

Plus, if trying to manual focus - you did turn the focus ring, right?


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copenhagen69
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Aug 12, 2010 18:28 |  #24

well when i said i used M i was not worried about exposure at the time of these pics. I was just using it today to test settings inside the house and so I was just keeping it there since it was there all day.


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Aug 12, 2010 18:33 |  #25

mike_d wrote in post #10710515 (external link)
Lots of people advocate manual exposure but I don't see many pushing manual focus unless they're using manual focus lenses.

In your first picture, it doesn't look like anything is in focus. Usually if you miss focus manually, you'll at least be close and something will be in the focus plane.

lol ... ya i still got lots of work to do as you can tell. thanks for the info though!


SkipD wrote in post #10710534 (external link)
I use manual focus quite often for fine touchup after getting rough focus by activating autofocus with the * button on the back of my 20D. All of my lenses, though, are "L" class zoom lenses which have MUCH better focus controls than any of the EF-S series lenses I have handled.

oh ok ... well I dont have the money for those L class just yet :lol:

number six wrote in post #10710542 (external link)
You don't hear me saying that!

I'm no stranger to manual focus and exposure, since that was the only way when I started 40 years ago.

I find I sometimes want to focus manually when shooting macro, but otherwise I've generally found the autofocus is better than I am. The exception may be when I'm using a tripod and shooting a still subject.

But decide for yourself.

As gonzogolf said earlier, you're at a big disadvantage with your XS's tiny dark viewfinder. Take a look at a manual focus camera from the dark ages and you'll see a much brighter scene - larger, too.

And then there's your lens. The 18-55 IS is an amazing lens for its price, very good optics. But the focus ring is touchy and it doesn't have much rotation. Both of these make manual focusing an ordeal.

While you're looking at that dark-ages camera, notice the feel of the focus ring. Very smooth and about twice the travel of our autofocus lenses.

Like I said, most of the time autofocus is better than I am.

-js

Hmmm, great info in there. thank you maybe I will still with autofocus for awhile and see what kind of shots I can come up with.

merlin2375 wrote in post #10710548 (external link)
I'm a bit confused, you want to manually focus or manually set exposure, or both?

Not just the focus .. the exposure was just because I was playing with that setting all day inside...

mike_d wrote in post #10710572 (external link)
Same here. I only resort to manual focus when the autofocus fails, usually in low light, for macro, or like when I was trying to shoot a spider and its web and the autofocus wanted to focus on the shrubs 30' away in the background.

lol, I have ran into that as well with autofocus going after some crazy push way off. :)

bdpaco wrote in post #10710599 (external link)
Manual exposure (camera in M) is what requires adjusting settings..ISO, Shutter speed and aperture...Manual focus (MF on the lens) only requires moving the focus ring...hopefully you arent getting the two confused...you can use one without the other...while you are manually focusing if you hold the shutter halfway down the center point will flash when you are in focus....

thanks for the great info! :)

number six wrote in post #10710606 (external link)
It seems to me that anyone looking at the two pics posted by the OP will realize that he is indeed talking about manual focus. The exposures are the same.

-js

yep they are

D Thompson wrote in post #10710611 (external link)
They're probably talking about manual as far as setting exposure, not manual as in focusing.

Plus, if trying to manual focus - you did turn the focus ring, right?

yes I turned the focus ring ... :)


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John ­ Sheehy
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Aug 12, 2010 18:51 |  #26

copenhagen69 wrote in post #10709924 (external link)
Ill be taking landscapes and buildings that are lit up at night as well as sunsets with them on the buildings.

[...]

That is the focus right? or are my terms still messed up?

First, you have to adjust the diopter wheel next to the viewfinder, so that it is at its sharpest. Note its position against the markers, for future reference, as it will occasionally get knocked out of place.

Now, when you focus on the buildings at night, look for small lights and focus to the point where the lights are at their smallest and brightest.

Not all lenses are created equal for MF. Many lenses have manual focus rings, but have play and lack precise control.




  
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copenhagen69
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Aug 12, 2010 19:04 |  #27

John Sheehy wrote in post #10710944 (external link)
First, you have to adjust the diopter wheel next to the viewfinder, so that it is at its sharpest. Note its position against the markers, for future reference, as it will occasionally get knocked out of place.

Now, when you focus on the buildings at night, look for small lights and focus to the point where the lights are at their smallest and brightest.

Not all lenses are created equal for MF. Many lenses have manual focus rings, but have play and lack precise control.

ah ok ... thanks for the pointers on the buildings at night


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Aug 13, 2010 02:26 |  #28

Don't think anyone has mentioned this yet, but as you are trying to focus manually, have you set the diopter adjustment on the eyepiece to suit your eyesight - assuming your camera has diopter adjustment?


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Aug 13, 2010 06:58 |  #29

John Sheehy wrote in post #10710944 (external link)
First, you have to adjust the diopter wheel next to the viewfinder, so that it is at its sharpest. Note its position against the markers, for future reference, as it will occasionally get knocked out of place.

Now, when you focus on the buildings at night, look for small lights and focus to the point where the lights are at their smallest and brightest.

Not all lenses are created equal for MF. Many lenses have manual focus rings, but have play and lack precise control.

Sorarse wrote in post #10713042 (external link)
Don't think anyone has mentioned this yet, but as you are trying to focus manually, have you set the diopter adjustment on the eyepiece to suit your eyesight - assuming your camera has diopter adjustment?

My thoughts entirely.

If the Diopter adjustment is out, the images will look fuzzy when focused perfectly and vice versa. And because the AF ignores the diopter, it is unaffected. Did the AF image look perfectly focused prior to taking the shot?


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copenhagen69
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Aug 13, 2010 09:28 |  #30

neilwood32 wrote in post #10713640 (external link)
My thoughts entirely.

If the Diopter adjustment is out, the images will look fuzzy when focused perfectly and vice versa. And because the AF ignores the diopter, it is unaffected. Did the AF image look perfectly focused prior to taking the shot?

no it was still fuzzy. I used the diopter but it only helped a little in focusing it


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