Skeletal Support: Why you don't need to lift weights to own the 70-200 f/2.8 variants

There's a thread in the G&N discussion section (https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=905581) that inspired me to compose a short write-up and film a demonstration on the concept of skeletal support.

While the aforementioned thread isn't the first time I've read someone's telling a person that has issues with the weight of the 70-200 f/2.8L IS to go to the gym and lift some weights. That thread pretty much finally pushed me to explain skeletal/bone support (as opposed to muscle support) and how I use it in competitive rifle shooting, and how it can be applied as an efficient way of handholding a camera with a 'heavy' lens.

Article / write-up: http://www.ocabj.net/?​p=1021
Video: http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=h11HE5Viuuw

I know the video is pretty low budget. I filmed it with no assistance (or assistants) and no studio. Enjoy (or not).

Very interesting.
I'll have to check it out for myself!

So how to you mange the zoom ring when you're supporting it from below on the tripod foot?

mike_d wrote in post #10721694
So how to you mange the zoom ring when you're supporting it from below on the tripod foot?

Personally, I don't. I rotate the foot so that it's at the top of the lens and out of my way.

Great post! For the left eye dominant guys using grips or 1D series, a good modification of this technique is to push the corner of the body into the shoulder, for another point of contact.

mike_d wrote in post #10721694
So how to you mange the zoom ring when you're supporting it from below on the tripod foot?

With the foot resting on my palm, I still have the thumb and fore finger free to move the zoom. Also you have the option of not touching the zoom ring and still supporting the camera. I think a lot of "lens issues" occur from people still turning the zoom and focus rings after the camera has focused and confimed.

These techniques are actually the basics of providing a stable platform to prevent camera shake...something that people tend to overlook.

For starters, all (or 99%) of the weight should be supported the left hand. The right hand should just be lightly holding the grip and pressing the shutter button. So to "tuck the elbows in" with this in mind, only the left arm has to be tucked in. The right elbow shouldn't be stuck outward, but it doesn't need to rest against the body.

I do something similar, though I don't hold the body/lens with my palm...that might work better with (physically) longer lenses, but all my lenses are relatively short. I also don't point the camera perpendicular to my body, more like 60 degrees.

Thanks for this. I'm going to investigate this technique. I've rarely found the elbows-in method stable for me.

Good writeup and video (I didn't watch the whole thing, but it looks well done.)

When I had my 70-200 f/2.8 (Sigma version, still heavy) I only felt it was wearing me down when wearing the neck strap (around the neck). It's important to wear the neck strap around your shoulder, or have an R-Strap or something that takes the weight off your neck or else carrying the camera will wear you down much faster then actually shooting with it.

If you can't tuck your arms in towards your body for some reason, then at least have your elbows at 90 degree angle so that the the weight is distributed within all your arm muscles, and have your wrists supporting the weigh, not HOLDING the weight. This is just my personal experience.

Nice take on an age-old issue for some folks.

I do go elbows in but for the really large primes, you have to get the left hand out to the prefocus buttons to get proper support. Can't hand hold the 500 f/4 "elbows in" and hope to be stable.

FlyingPhotog wrote in post #10723544
Nice take on an age-old issue for some folks.

I do go elbows in but for the really large primes, you have to get the left hand out to the prefocus buttons to get proper support. Can't hand hold the 500 f/4 "elbows in" and hope to be stable.

True, but even if your elbow can't be "elbow in" against your torso I bet you are still keeping your elbow centered under the glass rather than a 'chicken wing" stance with your elbow out to the side.

krb wrote in post #10723608
True, but even if your elbow can't be "elbow in" against your torso I bet you are still keeping your elbow centered under the glass rather than a 'chicken wing" stance with your elbow out to the side.

Oh most definately...

Right elbow stays in and the left arm is pretty much right under the longitudinal axis of the lens.

No "Claw" grip here!

nice technique, i bet this is going to help me a lot... thanks for sharing

Agreed totally, this is a solid suggestion and demonstration. (sorry for the pun)

I rarely use glass large enough to really require this type of grip, as with smaller glass you can easily deviate from this type of technique and still get away with it.

But, using this type of technique, you can stabilize a camera much more securely and for a much longer period of time.

This is one of the better and more information posts I've seen on here. Truly, good stuff.

I left you a comment on the video page but just wanted to comment here as well. great video and very helpful information....