10-22 on FF w/filters?!

jacobsen1 wrote in post #10944384
yes and the 300 pro DG version.

i didn't know that EF-S lenses fit on a kenko 1.4x tc


J.

jacobsen1 wrote in post #10944245
no worries, I'm pretty sure I'm the ONLY person who's ever done this, at least on PotN and flickr (someone did it with a sigma 10-20 which gave me the idea).

Filters are a PITA on the sigma 12-24 and nikon 14-24mm on FF. So if this were to work at 10mm with filters with a 1.4 TC it'd be a 14mm efl that could easily take filters. From what I've seen it sounds like the sigma 10-20 gives you exactly that.

filters do add to the threads in the front, it's just that for FF 16mm has always been the widest FL they'd work on. Anything wider is physically too wide for them w/o getting crafty.


exactly. Keep the marker from touching the right side of the 12mm mark and you're safe. It's roughly 17mm and up, so if you want to keep this lens it works, but a 17-40 is probably smarter?

You could try the cheap Tamron 1.4X converter. It has only 4 elements, doesn't report, and is recessed quite deeply. It also is quite cheap, so I don't know how well it would work from an IQ POV.

Another possibility, BTW, is removing the EF-S rubber ring. It should work that way, just check how for the rear end of the lens moves into the housing before touching the mirror. There is someone here on POTN who did just that, and it did actually work. Just that I can't remember who actually did that.

Kind regards, Wim

wimg wrote in post #10944559
You could try the cheap Tamron 1.4X converter. It has only 4 elements, doesn't report, and is recessed quite deeply. It also is quite cheap, so I don't know how well it would work from an IQ POV.

they look almost identical:

yeah, that was me with the lens in question. W/o the bumper it hits at ~12mm, just past 12mm it's OK.

obviously its impossible to judge at this size, but how do you find the resolution with the tc? how are the edges and the corners?

kevindar wrote in post #10944622
obviously its impossible to judge at this size, but how do you find the resolution with the tc? how are the edges and the corners?

it's beating the same lens on my 7D...
I'd say at least even with a 17-40L?

http://benjacobsenphot​o.com …0-09-19-at-9-32-34-pm.png
http://benjacobsenphot​o.com …0-09-19-at-9-35-47-pm.png

5D is sharper but with less noise. The FLs were NOT matched, so it's not fair to compare ultimate resolution with those, but they're worth checking out...

jacobsen1 wrote in post #10944582
they look almost identical:

yeah, that was me with the lens in question. W/o the bumper it hits at ~12mm, just past 12mm it's OK.

Hmmm. My tele-pro plus looks different than the Tamron does, although they certainly seem to stem from the same factory .

Ok, I had a quick peek (I actually have both, and the Canon 1.4X extender too ). The Tamron with 8 pins has a smaller diameter lens than the Kenko (with 11 pins) does, and the lens also is recessed a few mm more than the Kenko, so you should be able to get a few more mm FL out of the 10-22 as well.

The TAMRON-F AF TELE-CONVERTER 1.4X C-AF1 MC4 JAPAN is actually about half the price of the Kenko, but then, the Kenko is also a bit better.

Good to know it was you. Do you actually find the results are less without the converter?

Kind regards, Wim

wimg wrote in post #10944815
Do you actually find the results are less without the converter?

Kind regards, Wim

not less, it's more of a 7D -vs- 5D issue than the lens IMHO. The 5D is just so sharp that it makes comparing it to the 7D with it's stronger AA filter unfair? But edge sharpness is quite good. It's really bizarre but it's like you're taking the center of a crop lens, stretching it to cover FF, but because it's the center it's the best part and it works well?

jacobsen1 wrote in post #10945026
not less, it's more of a 7D -vs- 5D issue than the lens IMHO. The 5D is just so sharp that it makes comparing it to the 7D with it's stronger AA filter unfair? But edge sharpness is quite good. It's really bizarre but it's like you're taking the center of a crop lens, stretching it to cover FF, but because it's the center it's the best part and it works well?

Interesting, I am quite intrigued now. I'd really like to see the performance on a 5D II now of the 10-22 with converter. I guess I need to find somebody who owns one ; the converters and 5D II I have already .

Kind regards, Wim

you a CPS member?

for me it's just using the lens I have on hand to make a comparison that's as close as possible body to body (otherwise I'd be using the 24L II on the 5D and 10-22 @ 16ish on the cropper). I'm trying to decide if keeping a 5D with my 7D is smart or not. I LOVE the 5D but I'm not sure if I NEED it if you know what I mean? If I keep the 5D I'll swap the 10-22 for a 17-40 so I have a UWA (on the 5D) and somewhat of a standard (on the 7D). The other option is to sell the 5D and just get a 24-105 as my mid range for the cropper. The final option I'm considering is keeping both, and getting a 28-75. Not sure which UWA I'd keep in that scenario....

The issue is I need FPS for the ski shooting I do in the winter, so the 7D is staying as I MUCH prefer it over a 1Diii or 1DiiN... So with it a given, giving up the 10-22 is tough unless I see some results in prints that show otherwise. I didn't see it with the 5Dii, so I seriously doubt I'll see it with the "lesser" 5D. The other thought is to sell the 10-22 for a 10-20 AND 28-75? That'd be only slightly more than what I've got in the kit now AND I'd get 14mm on FF which would be rad.

jacobsen1 wrote in post #10945491
you a CPS member?

Yes... Not a bad idea .

I am fortunate in that it only is a hobby - I keep what I like .

That's quite understandable. For me th VF doesn't work, which is why I went for a 1D III .

I guess you answered your own questions already .

Kind regards, Wim

jurgenph wrote in post #10944558
i didn't know that EF-S lenses fit on a kenko 1.4x tc


J.

they don't...but i'm betting he's using a modded 10-22mm...so it'll fit then...


at what point does the 10-22mm vignette without the 1.4 TC...or is it pretty bad throughout...the thing that i thought was good about the sigma 10-20mm with 1.4 TC was the ability to use it at 14mm...

great shot ben. I dont know if i read this right, but you mentioned a sigma 10-20 + 1.4x could be used at 10mm but the 10-22 + 1.4x at <12mm cant?

You could have used it without the TC at ~16mm. Not to thread jack but here is a picture at 16mm from the 10-22 on my 5d.

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DreDaze wrote in post #10952710
at what point does the 10-22mm vignette without the 1.4 TC...or is it pretty bad throughout...the thing that i thought was good about the sigma 10-20mm with 1.4 TC was the ability to use it at 14mm...

somewhere around 16ish I think, but the issue is it's VERY soft in the corners regardless of how stopped down you get because the image circle just barely covers FF...

tudragan wrote in post #10953907
great shot ben. I dont know if i read this right, but you mentioned a sigma 10-20 + 1.4x could be used at 10mm but the 10-22 + 1.4x at <12mm cant?

the sigma is an EF mount lens so it works at all FLs on either a FF camera or with the TC physically. Meaning it won't HIT anything but it might vignette. The canon is an EF-S lens. I've removed the dumper on mine so I can actually mount it on a EF body, but the rear element still goes into the camera too far to shoot at 12mm or wider, the mirror physically hits the lens. With the recessed element on the 1.4 TC I was hoping it'd work with the 10-22, and it does, but at 12mm and wider the elements touch each other so you're stuck with ~12.5 as your widest on FF with the TC which is 17.5mm. W/o the TC you get ~16mm but with soft corners. Because of this the tokina 11-16mm is better on FF w/o a converter (but still not tack sharp in the corners, an issue if you're going to landscape with it) and the sigma 10-20 is the best bet WITH the converter because it works at 10mm for 14mm effective (but always vignettes on FF).

JHutch wrote in post #10957013
You could have used it without the TC at ~16mm. Not to thread jack but here is a picture at 16mm from the 10-22 on my 5d.

yeah, but check your corners. It's quite soft even stopped down. Similar to the 11-16mm Both work in a pinch on FF if you're shooting wide open, but if you're stopping down for DOF you'll see the corner issues...

wimg wrote in post #10948667
I guess you answered your own questions already .

yeah, it's either:

• sell 5D, get 24-105, go 100% APS-C
  
• keep 5D, swap 10-22 for 10-20, also get 28-75
  
• keep 5D, swap 10-22 for 17-40