Canon 60D Users, Unite!

The legal drinking age in Quebec, the age you can enter in clubs and bar, the age to vote etc is 18 years old. And we get our driver's license at 16. Great!

There was actual sunshine in Seattle today! And warmth! And even better, the head boss kicked us out of work an hour early, so I got to go play on the waterfront in the sunshine. Great, except for the fact the waterfront faces west, and the sun was very low and directly in front of me. Even so, got a few that I like:

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …eghansgallery/5​602256968/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …eghansgallery/5​602256854/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …eghansgallery/5​601671745/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …eghansgallery/5​602256720/

macroshooter1970 wrote in post #12187023
Get a chance to play with the new tripod or is that later.

No, too crowded on the waterfront due to the sunshine. Should be this weekend, as there will be some indoor stuff, some evening stuff, and some rain.

Although I'm happy to report it's really light and comfortable to carry, I packed it around the city for a couple hours in my bag, since I'd grabbed it this morning thinking I would use it.

markhyo wrote in post #12185163
Did I ever tell you I love my 60D camera??

+1 Mark, I'm in that same boat! Great shot btw!

Playing around today enjoying the spring weather.

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A couple in B+W from Jericho Beach in Vancouver.

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Rivest wrote in post #12186653
The legal drinking age in Quebec, the age you can enter in clubs and bar, the age to vote etc is 18 years old. And we get our driver's license at 16. Great!

14 motorcycle license, 16 car license, 18 to vote, 19 to buy tobacco products and 21 to purchase alcohol here

Unfortunately, in Ontario you have a graduating licensing system. At 16 you qualify to write a written test for a G1 license, that allows you to drive only with a fully licensed driver with many restrictions on where and what types of roads you can drive on. After one full year with the G1, you take the driving test and move up to a G2, you can now drive alone, but lots of restrictions still apply. You then again must wait another full year as a G2 before you take another road test and pass before you can move on to the "G" license, which is considered your full driving license.

From the time it starts, you have 5 years before your G1/G2 Expire, so if you fail and/or don't move up to the G before the five years is up, you start all over again as a beginner.

You pay $125 to start the system, and have to pay for the G2-G Exit road test, if you fail. You pay again and retake the test. Most instructors tend to fail you the first time through the final test for some reason.

It's quite the system, but if you're not busting ass to get it done, you'll be surprised on how fast the time will go before it expires. That and the wait times to get the road testing done is often months.

My final road test was one month before the license expired, I actually failed the road test the first time because I ran a 4-way stop sign (Haha), I re-booked the test, and it wasn't until after the expiry date, so they were actually nice enough to give me an extension on the license until the test date, but if I were to fail again. Game over.

ranger50 wrote in post #12182882
OK then. Go with a narrower arpiture, like f/10 or higher. The narrower the arpiture, the greater the depth of field. A higher f # is a narrower arpiture, thus more depth of field. Hope I helped!

But I read a narrow aperture like f/10 lets less light in. and the lower the f/number, the larger the aperture lets in more light.from f/1, f/1.4 f/2.8 and so on

So my lens reads 18-135mm f/3.5 - 5.6 so do that mean a 3.5 will have less light and f/5.6 will have lesser light ? in all the apertures because the 3.5 is not in the start of the apertures list that is what I was told.

Whoa. I forgot you can take the written test 15 yr here but it only requires that you have a parent in the car when you drive.

-Strike- wrote in post #12188729
Unfortunately, in Ontario you have a graduating licensing system. At 16 you qualify to write a written test for a G1 license, that allows you to drive only with a fully licensed driver with many restrictions on where and what types of roads you can drive on. After one full year with the G1, you take the driving test and move up to a G2, you can now drive alone, but lots of restrictions still apply. You then again must wait another full year as a G2 before you take another road test and pass before you can move on to the "G" license, which is considered your full driving license.

From the time it starts, you have 5 years before your G1/G2 Expire, so if you fail and/or don't move up to the G before the five years is up, you start all over again as a beginner.

You pay $125 to start the system, and have to pay for the G2-G Exit road test, if you fail. You pay again and retake the test. Most instructors tend to fail you the first time through the final test for some reason.

It's quite the system, but if you're not busting ass to get it done, you'll be surprised on how fast the time will go before it expires. That and the wait times to get the road testing done is often months.

My final road test was one month before the license expired, I actually failed the road test the first time because I ran a 4-way stop sign (Haha), I re-booked the test, and it wasn't until after the expiry date, so they were actually nice enough to give me an extension on the license until the test date, but if I were to fail again. Game over.

CanonEOS wrote in post #12189630
But I read a narrow aperture like f/10 lets less light in. and the lower the f/number, the larger the aperture lets in more light.from f/1, f/1.4 f/2.8 and so on

So my lens reads 18-135mm f/3.5 - 5.6 so do that mean a 3.5 will have less light and f/5.6 will have lesser light ? in all the apertures because the 3.5 is not in the start of the apertures list that is what I was told.

Aperture, shutter speed and ambient light available dictate overall lighting. If you step down the aperture to allow for a sharper image or more of the image to be infocus you must compensate with allowing for a longer shutter release time to allow more light into the available hole you created with the current f stop setting. Put your camera in AV mode and meter at f/3.5 all the way to f16 and watch the shutter speed change to compensate for proper exposure. This is photography basics and can be found in the photography 101 faq.

a couple from today

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CanonEOS wrote in post #12189630
But I read a narrow aperture like f/10 lets less light in. and the lower the f/number, the larger the aperture lets in more light.from f/1, f/1.4 f/2.8 and so on

So my lens reads 18-135mm f/3.5 - 5.6 so do that mean a 3.5 will have less light and f/5.6 will have lesser light ? in all the apertures because the 3.5 is not in the start of the apertures list that is what I was told.

Right. The higher the f number, the smaller the opening and less light is let in. The smaller opening actually makes the depth of field deeper. For example, if you take a shot wide open, there will be a more pronounced depth of field. If you close the aperture, the depth of field effect will be less and more of the picture in focus.

The f value range listed for some lenses like the kit one we have tells you the maximum f value as the lens travels through its zoom range. For example at 18mm the max aperture is 3.5. With it fully zoomed it can only go to 5.6.

jay125 wrote in post #12190097
a couple from today

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I love the street scene Jay.

Well, thanks to everyone who heard me voice my lens quandary earlier, looks like I'm going to be selling the following:

- Canon EF 100 f/2.8 USM Maco
- Canon EF-S 18-135 f/3.5-5.6 IS UD

And purchasing the following:

- Canon EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM
- Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 APO EX DG HSM OS FLD
- Sigma 30 f/1.4 EX DG HSM
- Canon EF 85 f/1.8 USM (cant justify the Sigma 85 1.4 just yet)

Additionally, I'm probably going to look into selling or trading-with-cash my Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6 EX DG HSM for a Tokina ATX 11-16 f/2.8 somewhere down the line.

I think this will give me all the ranges I care about, with the fastest possible zooms for both photo & video, indoor & outdoor, with fast AF and IS capabilities. Additionally I'll have two great prime lengths for video or portraiture, and eventually a better UWA for lowlight and video work as well.

Took a lot of research, patience, and frustration but I cant wait to get the ball rolling making the change.

^ let me know how you like the Sigma 70-200mm F2.8. Really looking at that as a legitimate alternative to the Canon 70-200mm F2.8 IS II.