Canon 60D Users, Unite!

JLateralus wrote in post #12193413
I asked this question in the lighting section but got no response, so maybe I'll do better here? Someone a few pages back mentioned a RF-602 to me in this thread and it got me wondering...


Hi all... I'd like some help/advice, as I'm pretty clueless regarding lighting.

First off, I have the first version of the Yongnuo 460. I've been working with this mounted on camera, and while it gives ok results, I'd like to step things up a little.

I own a 60D an thought I'd try to see how the built in wireless transmitter worked with my flash. Considering the dumb design decision to put the receiver inside the flash head itself on the 460, all I succeeded in doing was blinding myself.

I guess my question is twofold: what's my best option for getting an E-TTL flash (I don't mind another Yongnuo) and two, what's my best option for an inexpensive OCF? Should I just stick with my 460 for this purpose and maybe add a RF-603 set on for more versatile control?

Thanks!

I'll let David chime in here. He is the expert when it comes to these flash questions that have to do with triggers and recievers.

photographers of the year

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JLateralus wrote in post #12193413
I asked this question in the lighting section but got no response, so maybe I'll do better here? Someone a few pages back mentioned a RF-602 to me in this thread and it got me wondering...


Hi all... I'd like some help/advice, as I'm pretty clueless regarding lighting.

First off, I have the first version of the Yongnuo 460. I've been working with this mounted on camera, and while it gives ok results, I'd like to step things up a little.

I own a 60D an thought I'd try to see how the built in wireless transmitter worked with my flash. Considering the dumb design decision to put the receiver inside the flash head itself on the 460, all I succeeded in doing was blinding myself.

I guess my question is twofold: what's my best option for getting an E-TTL flash (I don't mind another Yongnuo) and two, what's my best option for an inexpensive OCF? Should I just stick with my 460 for this purpose and maybe add a RF-603 set on for more versatile control?

Thanks!

Im kinda confused by your statement. You blinded yourself? Anyways yes for ocf its best to use wireless triggers of some sort. To beable to flash ettl OCF you will need pocketwizards at the least which a setup for 2 lights and the trigger will run you close to 700.00 easily. If you shoot manual power on the flashes you can go with thr rf602/603's. I feel that strobist photography is for those who fully understand natural lighting and exposure with natural light and reflectors first. It makes ocf much easier to learn.

JLateralus wrote in post #12193413
I asked this question in the lighting section but got no response, so maybe I'll do better here? Someone a few pages back mentioned a RF-602 to me in this thread and it got me wondering...


Hi all... I'd like some help/advice, as I'm pretty clueless regarding lighting.

First off, I have the first version of the Yongnuo 460. I've been working with this mounted on camera, and while it gives ok results, I'd like to step things up a little.

I own a 60D an thought I'd try to see how the built in wireless transmitter worked with my flash. Considering the dumb design decision to put the receiver inside the flash head itself on the 460, all I succeeded in doing was blinding myself.

I guess my question is twofold: what's my best option for getting an E-TTL flash (I don't mind another Yongnuo) and two, what's my best option for an inexpensive OCF? Should I just stick with my 460 for this purpose and maybe add a RF-603 set on for more versatile control?

Thanks!

Thanks Allen, I'll take it!


Hi Jl, here my suggestion. If you have the money, you should really go for Canon 430ex, 430exII if possible. They are far more reliable and y can trust them 100%. I would never trust a Yongnuo for an important event, they are too un-reliable. This sais, they are great flashes, I own two YN-560 and love them. But I also own a 430ex.

The 430ex is a great flash, recycle quite fast is is also powerful. It has ETTl and High Speed Sync, which lacks your Yongnuo. I know Yongnuo makes an ETTL capable flash, the YN-468. It sells for around 100$. The choice is up to you, but if I was you, I'd invest a bit more and get the 430ex. It'll last a lot longer and will benefit you better in the long run.

As for triggers, go for the trusted RF-602. they are cheap and reliable. They also work as a remote shutter, meaning you'll be able to trigger your camera from 100 feet away. Get a set of 1 transmitter (TX) and 2 receptor (RX). This way, you'll be able to trigger both flashes at the same time.

Last thing, if you go with the 430ex, you'll be able to control it directly from your camera, in the wireless flash setting menu. It works really well, you can control the power of the 430ex from the camera, which is a really neat feature when doing some light tests, you save a lot of time from going back and forth from flash to camera.

I any way, do tell us which choice you'll go for

one more from yesterday. apparently those trees are dangerous.

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CanonEOS wrote in post #12193723
photographers of the year

You mean, the benefits of UWA.

CanonEOS wrote in post #12192467
I must say I got confused because many members kept saying smaller, lower larger higher bigger apertures and I got lost in (what is what) so now I read the Ben's Newbie Guide to Digital SLR Photography a few times and some other threads so now I understand what I want to know.

Thank you

Because ranger50 give me a good tip also.

Another way to think of aperture is.....if you have ever used shotguns, a 12 guage is a larger bore than a 20 gauge. Hence, the 12 gauge would let more light through the opening/bore.....just like a camera lens.

EJT wrote in post #12194081
Another way to think of aperture is.....if you have ever used shotguns, a 12 guage is a larger bore than a 20 gauge. Hence, the 12 gauge would let more light through the opening/bore.....just like a camera lens.

I've always found the original meaning of aperture numbers sufficient. That is, that for F/2, you could stretch two of the width of the aperture on edge in the distance between the focal center of the lens and the sensor. For f/22, you could stretch 22 little versions of aperture width on edge between the focal center of the lens and the sensor. If it takes 22 of em to get from the lens to the sensor, that's small! Find one of the older manual aperture non-ef lenses (doesn't matter what brand), and play with the aperture. There's usually an auto aperture lever of some kind that you have to slide in order to make it stop down.
A picture from the Stewart-Cassiar Highway:
http://farm6.static.fl​ickr.com …04825867_7d9838​3aea_b.jpg

CanonEOS wrote in post #12193257
I was only joking with you

Oh, I know. was just joking back.

EJT wrote in post #12194081
Another way to think of aperture is.....if you have ever used shotguns, a 12 guage is a larger bore than a 20 gauge. Hence, the 12 gauge would let more light through the opening/bore.....just like a camera lens.

Haha, I was going to say the same thing, but I seem to be getting reputation around here. Shotguns or from when I was a teen installing car stereos, the smaller the the number the bigger the wire. I learned from a stereo installer once that wire was like a fire hose compared to a garden hose. The fire hose lets more water through than a garden hose because it needs to be No.1 the big Kahuna to put a fire out. No.1 is always bigger. Anyhow, that's how I've adapted to aperture. Hope that helps someone!

a recent shot from belize with the 60d...

Ok, now for my problem. I heard somewhere that to shoot a fish tank to use the slave to the side or above, and I get that, it totally makes sense, but my problem is getting bounced light from the camera flash off the glass. I heard that the flash triggers the slave and that it doesn't give off light to the subject even though it flashes is this true? Yes, I have it set to slave only in the setting mode. Maybe I'm just not reading something right or what do I need to adjust?

macroshooter1970 wrote in post #12187139
Ok, I was just curious how the center column is while extended.

If you mean stability-wise, it's rock solid. Since the center column has to be extended to fold the tripod back over itself, I usually just leave it that way and adjust the leg height as necessary. Yesterday I ended up on a muddy hill at my cousin's place, hoping for a shot of bald eagles in the nest there. Put the 60D with 100-400mm lens on the tripod, center column fully extended, and legs all adjusted differently to account for the slope. The only movement was my cheap ballhead slipping under the weight of the lens, the tripod didn't even wiggle. (and unfortunately, the darn eagles didn't bother to show up.)

One more I found in the pile from last week, taken during a pouring rainstorm with the kit lens:

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …eghansgallery/5​606856882/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …eghansgallery/5​606857100/

CanonEOS photographers of the year…lol


Memory_Junction Great shot


Meglet nice shots too

Nice stuff, I like the look of this.

Memory_Junction wrote in post #12194516

Trying to figure out this embedding flickr pictures thing... bear with me.