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Thread started 02 Oct 2010 (Saturday) 13:22
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Daylight shooting questions

 
TheAnt
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Oct 02, 2010 13:22 |  #1

I was out shooting a friend as a sort of birthday thing for her 21st birthday. We were shooting on an open bridge around 10AM and I was using my flash bracket until I noticed the shoe was breaking (Greatttt) and then my Sto-Fen fell off my flash, and down a 20 foot drop into a river. So, I ended up hand holding the flash. I tried exposing for the sky, which at ISO100 / f1.8 resulted in a 1/1250s, and shooting off my flash (both in eTTL and Manual - high speed sync always set).

When shooting in eTTL, she had that "flash" look to her. When shooting manual, anything less than full power would result in her being completely shadowed.

What do you guys reccomend? Or are there any books on outdoor lighting I should get and start reading?

The gear I used, if it helps: 1DMkIIn, 50 f/1.8, 430EXII.


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RL.
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Oct 02, 2010 19:08 |  #2
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To bring that shutter speed down to sync it you could use a nd filter, I would use the flash and camera in manual mode to get the proper exposure and to learn how all the setting effect each other.


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TheAnt
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Oct 02, 2010 21:01 |  #3

RL. wrote in post #11022099 (external link)
To bring that shutter speed down to sync it you could use a nd filter, I would use the flash and camera in manual mode to get the proper exposure and to learn how all the setting effect each other.

I could use an ND filter, but that would require a person to stay still for a longer period of time. And my flash syncs at any shutter speed thanks to high-speed syncing with the 1D series.

I'm really trying to figure out exactly how I should expose for the sky to get the nice blues to come out instead of a blown out white, while firing the flash to expose the person correctly.


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Gatorboy
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Oct 03, 2010 10:39 |  #4

Losing your Sto-Fen wasn't a big deal, for it does absolutely no good outdoors. Bouncing off the clouds doesn't work.


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egordon99
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Oct 04, 2010 09:02 |  #5

TheAnt wrote in post #11020813 (external link)
When shooting in eTTL, she had that "flash" look to her. When shooting manual, anything less than full power would result in her being completely shadowed.

When you shot in manual, what did full power look like? There's nothing inherently different about the light output in ETTL compared to manual. Just in manual, YOU set the power, and ETTL the CAMERA sets the power.




  
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TheAnt
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Oct 04, 2010 10:49 |  #6

I'll post up a few pictures once I get a card reader this week. My laptop doesn't have firewire, so I can't import directly from my camera.


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ctham
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Oct 05, 2010 00:08 |  #7

ETTL should bring up the exposure of the subject; try some negative flash exposure compensation. Then there is also flash power to think about, as high speed sync means lower flash power, even if it syncs. An ND filter will help; at that exposure, a 3-stop ND filter will still give you 1/160 sec shutter speed. More than enough to freeze motion when combined with flash.


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Austin.Manny
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Oct 09, 2010 15:52 |  #8

Your problem is that your shots didn't come out looking natural, rather "flashed".

That is because of the on-axis, small light source. Your best bet would be to use off camera flash in a shoot-through umbrella at the least. Your tupperware didn't do anything except waste flash power.

Gatorboy wrote in post #11024968 (external link)
Losing your Sto-Fen wasn't a big deal, for it does absolutely no good outdoors. Bouncing off the clouds doesn't work.

bw!


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egraphdesign
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Oct 10, 2010 13:52 |  #9

ETTL with flash exposure comp set to a negative value seems like what you are looking for.
I would say you could achieve the same results in manual flash and it seems odd the you could only get either overexposed or silhouette in manual.

"My laptop doesn't have firewire, so I can't import directly from my camera" you lost me on that one from the specs I read your camera is USB 1




  
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TheAnt
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Oct 10, 2010 16:12 |  #10

The 1D's connect to a computer for downloading images, Canon Utilities, etc, via FW. I haven't figured out exactly why the USB is on the camera yet.


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Scatterbrained
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Oct 10, 2010 16:38 |  #11

I thought the FW was for direct printing and the USB was for camera/pc communication?


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egraphdesign
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Oct 10, 2010 17:01 |  #12

Scatterbrained wrote in post #11070042 (external link)
I thought the FW was for direct printing and the USB was for camera/pc communication?

The other way around I checked the manual




  
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