B-29 "FiFi" Last Flying Bomber

SVTmaniac wrote in post #11091486
But you yourself just don't get it. Nobody was laughing at him image. They are laughing at the funny names people are coming up with for the term "Frozen Props" you can't not laugh at "Propsicles" Not a single poster in here is bashing the OP.

Off my high horse now.

I agree 100%.


Nice images other than the propsicles.....

dedsen wrote in post #11089827
Another aviation "expert" that just does not get it!

I rest my case.

FYI Jay. This is not so much directed at you. You almost always give some sort of helpful critique in addition to the above mentioned favorite line. I think we all know it is not the perfect image when the props are stopped. It is the "make fun of" attitude that is mostly presented. As reinforced numerous times in this thread alone. Especially this last poster! Well done RWatkins!

I don't recall ever claiming to be an expert. I was just trying to make an acronym that fit the phenomena.I don't see the "make fun of" aspect you seeming do; at no time was there any criticism lodged at his image. If you read that in my and others post, that is your prerogative.

I shoot a lot of air shows. I remember my first air show shoot, I was so excited. The images were so sharp and crisp, I had a great shot of a P-51 flying by -- shot at 1/750.

I posted the image and the first reply was "no prop blur".

I never even thought of it until someone with more experience pointed it out, and then it was -- well of course it looks better with prop blur. I never made that mistake again.

This is what these forums are for -- we learn from each other.

Now, as posted earlier... I think shooting at 1/250 is still way too fast to get good blur. The term is often called "full prop blur" when you see a full circle of color. The tips are usually yellow or red, and it will draw a full circle at the correct speed.

Planes standing with props on - 1/30s
Plane taxing slow on runway - 1/60s
Plane taking off or landing - 1/100s
Slow bomber fly-by - 125s
Fast fighter fly-by - 1/60 to 1/80s

Getting a fast fighter fly-by will "full prop blur" is really hard and requires panning.

I will post some of my "full prop blur" photos later, I am not at my home computer. But I did a quick Google and found an good example to look and compare:

http://classicwarbirds​.net/tag/nazzi-harani/

Notice there are two shots (#1 & #5) with full prop blur. Notice the #2 shot does not have full prop blur, you can see 4 distinct areas of blur on the blades. That "4 blade blur" look is very popular.

The numbers I provided above are just a guide. If the pilot revs the engine, the prop speed changes, so there are no exact numbers. Just a starting guide. But next time you shoot an airshow with prop planes, do a test -- shoot at different speeds of a plane just sitting static warming up the engine. Go from 1/250 s all the way down to 1/10s and see what you get.

I will try to dig some images up of mine where I did that exact same thing. And you can see each one has a different prop blur look.

Did another search on Google for more examples... found it right here on POTN!

https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=200585

Notice he shot at 1/40 and 1/60s for those shots! Now those are taxing shots. With fly-by, you can't shoot that slow -- all you will get is "plane blur"!

Look down in this same thread and see a post from Yukon that shows a perfect example of the "4 blade blur". That is what you want to try to get on fly-bys, so try shooting at 1/80s and pan. It takes a lot of practice to get a sharp plane, with 4 blade blur.


Last tip: The BEST time to shoot planes at airshows is AFTER the show is over. The crowds leave, and it often takes a few hours to get all the planes organized. Plane owners are usually very enthusiastic to let you take photos. THIS is the time to get great shots of parked planes with other PEOPLE in the shots, but also you get the sunset colors -- which makes anything metal take on great saturated colors.

Any of these work for ya Kurt?

(No need to go all the way back to 2006...)

Feel free to check out my website as well...

FlyingPhotog wrote in post #11092656
Feel free to check out my website as well...

Yes, I like your stuff. I have noticed many of your posts. You guys out west are lucky, all the good air shows are near the California area - the weather is good all year round. I live near NYC and we are lucky to get 3-4 good local airshows per year.
I have only done about 15 airshows. I would love to start attending more shows starting next year. I need to get a 300mm L 2.8. I have 70-200L IS f2.8 and a 400mm f2.8. I find the 400 too long and the 200 too short.
I put TC 1.4 on the 70-200 and it felt like the best range for me, but I don't like the TC, it makes some images soft. That's why I really want to get a 300mm f2.8 for the next show I attend.

I shoot mainly landscapes, trains and cars. I just starting getting into aviation. I am hooked!


I usually don't post many things here, but here are a few on mine:

(the first two are a little soft...I just did a quick search through my raw archives. I'll look for ones that are sharper. But they show the prop blur difference between full and 4 blade nicely. I tend to like the 4 blade look better.)

Full prop blur while panning

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Gosh gentlemen i never thought i'd cause this kinda comosion . Guess i should have really chosen my words better . I don't want anyone getting upset at each other over there personal thoughts about whats right or wrong , perhaps i should have just let it go about the prop comments . But i had no idea prop blur makes the best images , i really didn't . Kurt & FlyingPhotog those are some excellent images examples and if i ever get a chance i will try to remember all this ! Meanwhile heres an image i took of FiFi after she landed from a practice run and she was taxiing to her resting spot with the big boys . I hate this image because the distance was so far away even my 400mm Sig APO didn't get a good focus cause heat waves i guess . Totally messed up this picture !!

Just remember when you shoot at night do not use a flash. The strobe effect will stop a prop cold. Here is prop blur and flame blur,

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