Crypto wrote:
When taking macro shots using the 350D, in the creative modes, do you have to have a Macro Lens? I seem to run into focus problems in the creative mode (using the kit lens efs 18-55) on some shots. If I use the manual focus, the image looks ok through the view finder, but on the LCD and when I get home the image isn't sharp and focused.
I end up having to use the Macro setting in the basic mode. Unfortunately, I prefer to have raw images so I can work on them later.
Is there a trick using this lens in the creative mode, or do I have to get a macro lens?
thanks
The use of the creative modes should have nothing to do with the problem. In fact, for the reason I will shortly mention, the creative modes are the way to go.
I think your problem probably comes from two sources: (1) The focusing screen on the 350D is just not all that good for judging fine focus in my opinion. It can be done but you have to be very careful. Unfortunately, that is where the higher price bodies do better and (2) you are using a lens that is not very good for macro photography.
True macro lenses are designed to work well in closeup situations. Zoom lenses, even if they have a "macro mode" are at a distinctive disadvantage in closeup situations. And, unfortunately, the kit lens is not the highest quality to begin with.
While you do not "need" a macro lens to take closeups a macro lens is certainly highly recommended for best results.
You also may be trying to take closeups at distances closer than your lens will focus. Because of the limitations of the viewfinder of the 350 that may not be readily apparent untill you view the resulting shots on the computer monitor.
And closeups mean very little depth of field. So a slight change in camera to subject distance during shooting can very quickly make a possible sharp shot fuzzy. Handholding is particularly difficult because of that. And handholding also introduces the possibility of subject movement or camera shake. Higher shutter speeds can help with that.
Some suggestions: Use aperture priority in the creative mode and set the aperature at a small enough F stop to at least provide some depth of field . . say F:11 or so. Then use a fast enough ISO setting to allow a decent shutter speed . . 1/125 or 1/250 if possible.
Try to use the camera on a tripod if at all possible. That will take practice but good closeup technique requires practice. Be sure the camera back is parallel to the subject plane. So if the subject is a butterfly clinging to a vertical plant stalk, you will want to position the camera so its back is parallel to the stalk. If you don't do that portions of the subject will likely be out of focus because they are beyond the limited depth of field. Depth of field in many closeup situations is only an inch or two so you can see how tricky it can be.
Another suggestion is to try not focusing with the lens but rather, setting the lens for its closest focusing distance and then moving the camera toward and away from the subject until it appears sharp in the viewfinder. At closeup distances, the lens focusing scale has little relative effect. Camera to subject distance changes are much more obvious. You can and should practice this technique often using some object at home until you begin to see consistent results.
And finally, set the lens for manual focus. Do not rely on autofocus for closeups. If you do try to use autofocus, at least set the camera to use only the center focusing spot and be sure it is dead on the subject of interest. Even then, I do not trust the autofocus to work consistently in the closeup range, either because of accuracy limitations or operator error (such as the focus spot slipping off the subject, etc.) I think manual focus is likely to give you a higher percentage of good shots.
Don't be discouraged by initial results. Good closeup technique is most important and you can practice and learn that with your present lens. Then, if closeups become an important part of your phoitography, a macro lens will become a worthwhile investment.
Bruce
