Sound advice ^^
... whilst you are at it, maybe also learn about panning with moving objects to keep them sharp whilst everything else starts to blurr ... this goes hand in hand with what DC Fan said, and helps you gain more "subject isolation" - you don't need to be at a track to do this, stood (safely) by the side of a road shooting will be good start for learning.
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/photos/leedownham/5105516290/
Lola T70 #27
by
Lee Downham
, on Flickr
Once you are happy with framing shots nicely (read up about the rule of thirds whilst you are at it

) and panning, your next steps should probably be in to learning about exposure and the relationship between aperture and shutter speed, and the effects these two factors have on your images (for subject isolation, etc) ...
Slow shutter speeds bring with them more motion blur (as in the shot above), whereas fast shutter freezes the action like everything is stood totally still ... learn when to use slow and fast shutter speeds to get more evocative shots (do this in Tv mode)
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/photos/leedownham/4882151736/
Noriyuki Haga passing Michel Fabrizio
by
Lee Downham
, on Flickr
Learn about apertures and depth of field too (Av mode) ... big apertures (the ones with smaller f numbers


) will give you more background blur ...
| HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Redirected to error image by FLICKR |
Blue eyes and his bear
by
Lee Downham
, on Flickr
... whereas small apertures (big f numbers) will bring everything up sharp. Uses for this again are for subject isolation (big apertures) or to bring everything sharp and into focus (such as landscapes, foreground and background objects).
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/photos/leedownham/5041127231/
Tonel Beach at Sunset - Sagres, Portugal
by
Lee Downham
, on Flickr
... most importantly ... take it slow and steady and enjoy it
