Sigma 8-16mm on FF or 1.3x

Yes it's a DC (crop) lens, but has anyone tried it on a non-drop body? I'm wondering at what point vignetting ends. I've done searches on google and in this forum, and I've found zilch.

For example, I know the Canon 10-22mm looks good on APS-H bodies from 13mm and on FF bodies from 15mm...

MOkoFOko wrote in post #11199603
For example, I know the Canon 10-22mm looks good on APS-H bodies from 13mm

There is a bit of variations between copies. I just got a new 10-22mm, and tried it out the window. This was at 10,5mm with 1d3. Exif says 11, but quite sure it was closer to 10,5. Those corners can be photoshopped away. That's 13,6mm on FF. Much wider then my 17-40mm I have for the 5d.

!d3@10,5mm

we're definitely off-topic, but I'm really surprised you managed to get a shot at 10.5mm. According to others, the shutter contacts the rear lens at 10mm and 11mm.

Yes, sorry about that. I'm really interested hearing if the 8-16 works on 1.3x crop to.

But 10-22 is a really good alternative imo, and takes filters. My last copy was not as wide as this one. On 10mm I get error, I presume the mirror touches. But slightly past it's okay. 10,5 was no issue on 1d3. 14mm on 5d is fine as you can see. There is vignetting, but relatively even, and can be removed in post. I think the raw converter took out some vignetting in this pics, but besides that, they are straight from the camera, both at f8. So it can work as a 11-14mm on both the 1d and 5d. Giving 14mm in FF terms.

MOkoFOko wrote in post #11200353
we're definitely off-topic, but I'm really surprised you managed to get a shot at 10.5mm. According to others, the shutter contacts the rear lens at 10mm and 11mm.

Not the shutter, but maybe the mirror...

MOkoFOko wrote in post #11200353
we're definitely off-topic, but I'm really surprised you managed to get a shot at 10.5mm. According to others, the shutter contacts the rear lens at 10mm and 11mm.

that's one wild shutter if it is making contact from what I understand they just move in an up and down motion and usually have no issues with hitting the elements unless we are talking some lens that sticks WAY inside the mirror box.... or you might be thinking of the mirror

Try sticking a 1.4x TC on it.

You'll get 11.2-22.4mm on full frame.

Shadowblade wrote in post #11202950
Try sticking a 1.4x TC on it.

You'll get 11.2-22.4mm on full frame.

interesting idea, that should get around any contact issues...is there anything that would stop a 10-22 functioning with a TC, I expect it isn't one of the lenses that canon recommends for theirs?

robonrome wrote in post #11202960
interesting idea, that should get around any contact issues...is there anything that would stop a 10-22 functioning with a TC, I expect it isn't one of the lenses that canon recommends for theirs?

You'd need to exchange the mount ring to make it an EF mount (instead of EF-S). Also, you'd have to use a non-Canon TC - the Canon TC only works with a few lenses. Finally, you need to use a non-reporting TC, otherwise you would lose AF - out of the crop UWAs, the only ones which wouldn't lose AF would be the Tokina 11-16 and the Sigma 10-20 f/3.5.

robonrome wrote in post #11202960
interesting idea, that should get around any contact issues...is there anything that would stop a 10-22 functioning with a TC, I expect it isn't one of the lenses that canon recommends for theirs?

I tried the kenko 1,4 300pro. But lens elements seems to touch at 12mm. So not ideal and not as wide as the bare lens. Maybe some other TC will work better on the 10-22.

On a 8-16 It will probably work great, with some loose of image quality.

A TC will make you use the lens at it's widest setting. The 10-22 seems to be best optically at around 12-14mm. So this is another bonus using it on 1,3x.