Aqurium Lens?

Simple solution to the flash being annoying to others (which wouldn't be rude if that's your only choice) is to use a reflector on the flash that'll throw the light a bit higher up but not all the way up to the ceiling. Some barn doors would be helpful too.

Rubber lens hoods are a nice thing to have too. Allow you some flexibility and still be pressed up against the glass blocking out flash light.

TooManyShots wrote in post #11233787
Pretty much so. Check the histogram. Use the power necessary to keep the exposure to the right. The power you need depends on the distance between you (your lens) to the subject. Shoot everything in manual mode, including the flash power setting. That's why I love my Sigma 50.

You can do a bit of experiment right now. Shoot an object in a dark, low light room. Set the iso to 800, shutter speed to 1/200, F4. Use only the flash to provide the correct exposure. Bounce the flash light off the ceiling. Add a diffuser to get a bit of softer look. When you shoot at the fish tank, you do the same, except that you point the flash head 45 degree. Remember the diffuser. The diffuser not only soften the look but also illuminates the subject in front of you. If you don't add a diffuser, the flash light would just aim right up. In an aquarium, you get nothing to bounce off the light. Use the gold diffuser to even out the light source.

I have some gells but no gold diffuser, Off to pull it out and start to experiment

J.David wrote in post #11233883
I have some gells but no gold diffuser, Off to pull it out and start to experiment

Gel is fine as long as the color is more "yellowish."" You can use an index card to reflect some of the light to the front. I still think a diffuser is better. You need lights at the front since you will be pointing your flash head at a 45 degree angle. Also, don't shoot straight on at the fish. Keep the fish either at the right or left. In this way, you don't get glares. Wait until the fish is near the glass to take the shot. Once you get the exposure nailed, you have to worry about focusing now.

What about using a LumiQuest ProMax system on the flash angled slightly down towards the lens bouncing the flash, spreading it more wide?

ben_r_ wrote in post #11233935
What about using a LumiQuest ProMax system on the flash angled slightly down towards the lens bouncing the flash, spreading it more wide?

It should be fine as long as you can soften the flash look. You can adjust the flash head angle to control the exposure power. More downward, more light forward to the subject, but may be harsher look. More upward, less light to the subject, but may lead to underexposure. Makes sure you are using a gold insert. The color makes WB adjustment easier during post processing.

24 1.4 II is my go-to

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Nice shots Jon. All these shots are dead on. Victor I have been trying out your flash recipe and works great in my dimly lit dinning room. I'll try a more yellowish gel. thanks

J.David wrote in post #11234065
Nice shots Jon. All these shots are dead on. Victor I have been trying out your flash recipe and works great in my dimly lit dinning room. I'll try a more yellowish gel. thanks

Also, as long as the flash is firing within the max flash sync speed of your body, it will freeze actions, period. Even down to 1/125 seconds. Also, using a higher ISO setting it can allow more ambient light to come into the frame. More balance light with both the ambient light and the flash exposure. You can try different ISO setting at home. You will notice that the higher the ISO you use, the more of the ambient light you see in the shot. With ISO setting under 400, you just don't get any ambient light in the shot at all.

85L1.2@F1.2 .. iso 3200 1/100 + CPL Filter

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It all depends on the lighting available and the type of picture you want to get. I have never been able to get good results with my 24-70 2.8. I typically use the 85 1.8 on my 7D at ISO 3200 (or less if possible). Here are some example pictures I have been able to get. Takes a steady hand and some cooperative fish, and for me many many attempted shots. I don't recommend bringing the family....my wife and kids were very bored at the tiger fish tank. It was a circular tank, making it very difficult to get any shots I liked.

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Andy you are correct taking the family is tough and add going Saturday just made tougher than it needed to be. The 85 shots all look fantastic and will give that a try. Victor you were right on with your flash recipe as that worked well. You were also correct about focus being a different subject. I have been deleting all night. Thanks for all the advise and great picture.

I feel like the 85 1.2 would have been too long of MFD to work well at my aquarium.

Speaking of which, how are your local aquariums with photography? I brought my 5DII with 24LII, and 7D with 70-200 II in my backpack with no issues, no one even looked twice.

i had a 50d, 11-16, 17-35 and 24-70 lol

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J.David wrote in post #11231071
Going to the aqurium in Atlanta tomorrow, want to take just one lens. Thinking either 85 F1.8 or 24-105 f4. Has anyone shot there and or what is good for that environment? Polorizer? Thanks for your help.

I may be too late for this now, but it looks like your 17-35 f/2.8 will be your best choice. I've been to the Georgia Aquarium with a 50mm prime and it was too long, so I doubt that you would get much use from the 85mm.

I went to the New Orleans Aquarium with the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 & Canon 17-55 f/2.8. The 17-55 was great for the flexibility, but I did most of my shooting at ISO 800 - 1600. I used the Sigma for a lot of shots and it was nice to have the faster shutter speed and/or lower ISO, but it wasn't nearly as convenient as the zoom.