Really right stuff, head and L-plate

I am considering in getting the RRS ballhead and plate for the 5D mkII
Before I do is there any other heads or plate that gives me the same option?
RRS L-plate with any other head?

Here is the link for the Head
Here is the link for the L-plate

I currently have the Manfrotto 488 ballhead with the quick release

I think the RRS is pricey but I guess you pay for good quality?

Yes, those are the ones to buy. I've never actually seen a shot of someone using the 5D2 + grip L plate on a phottix grip though.

Headshotzx wrote in post #11281187
Yes, those are the ones to buy. I've never actually seen a shot of someone using the 5D2 + grip L plate on a phottix grip though.

There is no difference what so ever to the original Canon grip except for the price. I tried out the grip of my friend and it could have been made from the same production line

Another option is the Markins M10 (or whatever the new numbering scheme is). You can order the head from Markins without their clamp and simply use the RRS clamp. Markins M10 or RRS BH-40...pretty much take your pick. Both quality pieces of hardware.

argyle wrote in post #11281202
Another option is the Markins M10 (or whatever the new numbering scheme is). You can order the head from Markins without their clamp and simply use the RRS clamp. Markins M10 or RRS BH-40...pretty much take your pick. Both quality pieces of hardware.

Thanks, I will check it out

The Markins M10 has a 44mm ball, the RRS is 40mm. For the money, I would definitely get the Markins; the larger the ball diameter, the more steady is the ball movement and the less is the potential for droop with a heavy lens.

Also, if you send the RRS release to Markins, they will put it on the ballhead. Markins also makes their own lever QR. It is easily adjustable to fit an RRS plate system and from my experience is a match to the RRS. The RRS release however is the tried and true classic.

tvphotog wrote in post #11281265
The Markins M10 has a 44mm ball, the RRS is 40mm. For the money, I would definitely get the Markins; the larger the ball diameter, the more steady is the ball movement and the less is the potential for droop with a heavy lens.

Also, if you send the RRS release to Markins, they will put it on the ballhead. Markins also makes their own lever QR. It is easily adjustable to fit an RRS plate system and from my experience is a match to the RRS. The RRS release however is the tried and true classic.

I really like the RRS release and the L-plate so I think I will go with it.
I also checked out the Kirk system that have the same release as the Markins. The Kirk L-plate seems a bit bulkier than the RRS
And if Markins had made the L-plate for the mkII with the grip that would have been my choice
Price wise there is no big difference

tvphotog wrote in post #11281265
The Markins M10 has a 44mm ball, the RRS is 40mm. For the money, I would definitely get the Markins; the larger the ball diameter, the more steady is the ball movement and the less is the potential for droop with a heavy lens.

Also, if you send the RRS release to Markins, they will put it on the ballhead. Markins also makes their own lever QR. It is easily adjustable to fit an RRS plate system and from my experience is a match to the RRS. The RRS release however is the tried and true classic.

Really no need to do that. A dab of blue Loctite on the stud or screw, assemble, and you're done. Takes no more than a few minutes, then wait a few hours for the Loctite to cure. Would be a waste of time to wait and take delivery of an RRS clamp, then turn around and ship it off to Markins for a relatively simple task. Just my opinion anyway.

OP: If you decide to order the Markins head, and still go with the RRS lever clamp, you will also need to order a 3/8-16 stud from RRS (not included with the clamp). This is what is used to secure the clamp to the ballhead. OTOH, if you order the RRS BH-40 ballhead with the lever clamp already attached (model #BH40LRII), there's no need for anything else.

ArcticShooter wrote in post #11281327
I really like the RRS release and the L-plate so I think I will go with it.
I also checked out the Kirk system that have the same release as the Markins. The Kirk L-plate seems a bit bulkier than the RRS
And if Markins had made the L-plate for the mkII with the grip that would have been my choice
Price wise there is no big difference

The Kirk L bracket is bulkier, only because they have built out the left side where the cable release attaches, so that the bracket will accomodate the cable in the portrait position on the QR.

With the RRS bracket, you have to loosen the bottom screw and slide the bracket to the left to make room for the cable. I got the RRS bracket because of the compact nature of its design when its flush with the left side of the body. The Markins L brackets for the 5D2 without a grip wobble a bit, according to one member here. I would stick with the RRS bracket.

You can use the Locktite as mentioned above, but I believe Markins uses red Locktite, which has to be heated to release. If you plan to switch QR's in the future, I would use the blue product.

tvphotog wrote in post #11281583
The Kirk L bracket is bulkier, only because they have built out the left side where the cable release attaches, so that the bracket will accomodate the cable in the portrait position on the QR.

With the RRS bracket, you have to loosen the bottom screw and slide the bracket to the left to make room for the cable. I got the RRS bracket because of the compact nature of its design when its flush with the left side of the body. The Markins L brackets for the 5D2 without a grip wobble a bit, according to one member here. I would stick with the RRS bracket.

You can use the Locktite as mentioned above, but I believe Markins uses red Locktite, which has to be heated to release. If you plan to switch QR's in the future, I would use the blue product.

Ii just popped to my mind that I can use my old 488 RC2 with the RRS.
I just need a new QR base plate and the L-plate.
So that saved me some $ instead of getting a new ball head. I think the 488 RC2 uses the 1/4" male tread. So I will need the reducer from 3/8 to 1/4
I have gotten so used to the 488 that I prefer to use it.
Yeah the Loctite made for thread locking is the one to use. I have some at work. Loctite 248 if you use the red you need to heat it up for removal and that is a pain

ArcticShooter wrote in post #11281934
Ii just popped to my mind that I can use my old 488 RC2 with the RRS.
I just need a new QR base plate and the L-plate.
So that saved me some $ instead of getting a new ball head. I think the 488 RC2 uses the 1/4" male tread. So I will need the reducer from 3/8 to 1/4
I have gotten so used to the 488 that I prefer to use it.
Yeah the Loctite made for thread locking is the one to use. I have some at work. Loctite 248 if you use the red you need to heat it up for removal and that is a pain

That's what I did... I ended up just getting a markins qr. It works well but now I'm really to upgrade my ballhead and am looking to get a bh40.

I would recommend just getting the bh40 to start with instead of the upgrade you'll want later...

And you can sell the 488 as is...

I will probably give you guys an in-depth review. From a perspective from portraits to landscape work since I just ordered the BH-40LR2 + BG-E6 Lplate.
@arcticshooter: it is pricey but I heard it's also engineered to perfections.

I realize that the BH-40 is expensive for a ball head. But for those of you that can afford it, why not just get the bigger BH-55? If size/weight isn't a big concern, why not spend a bit more and get the bigger one. I almost never see the BH-55 for sale locally. I do see a BH-40 every once in a while from someone wanting to upgrade to the bigger one.

ArcticShooter wrote in post #11281934
Ii just popped to my mind that I can use my old 488 RC2 with the RRS.
I just need a new QR base plate and the L-plate.
So that saved me some $ instead of getting a new ball head. I think the 488 RC2 uses the 1/4" male tread. So I will need the reducer from 3/8 to 1/4
I have gotten so used to the 488 that I prefer to use it.
Yeah the Loctite made for thread locking is the one to use. I have some at work. Loctite 248 if you use the red you need to heat it up for removal and that is a pain

You don't need the reducer. If you remove the entire RC2 clamp and plate from the 488 you will be left with a 3/8" male thread on the top of the post. You can then screw any clamp with a 3/8" female threaded hole in the center onto the post. It's as simple as that.

Here's my somewhat beat-up 488 with a Kirk knob clamp on it:

ArcticShooter wrote in post #11281934
Ii just popped to my mind that I can use my old 488 RC2 with the RRS.
I just need a new QR base plate and the L-plate.
So that saved me some $ instead of getting a new ball head. I think the 488 RC2 uses the 1/4" male tread. So I will need the reducer from 3/8 to 1/4
I have gotten so used to the 488 that I prefer to use it.
Yeah the Loctite made for thread locking is the one to use. I have some at work. Loctite 248 if you use the red you need to heat it up for removal and that is a pain

JWright wrote in post #11282989
You don't need the reducer. If you remove the entire RC2 clamp and plate from the 488 you will be left with a 3/8" male thread on the top of the post. You can then screw any clamp with a 3/8" female threaded hole in the center onto the post. It's as simple as that.

Here's my somewhat beat-up 488 with a Kirk knob clamp on it:

There are also RRS lever clamps that will fit.

RRS used to have a table of which of their clamps to get for the various heads out there. Like John, I adapted my 488 to an A-S clamp; in my case the RRS B2 LR II (which is what I'd suggest if you're using the RRS L plate).