Hi, I'm using a Canon T2i with an 85L and 24L II on hand. I was just curious what are some methods that are used to ensure real sharp focused eyes. Thanks for your time.
MaoKhan Member 131 posts Likes: 27 Joined Jan 2007 More info | Nov 15, 2010 19:55 | #1 Hi, I'm using a Canon T2i with an 85L and 24L II on hand. I was just curious what are some methods that are used to ensure real sharp focused eyes. Thanks for your time. Eos M, 22mm
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LiberationFrequency Goldmember 1,334 posts Joined Jun 2010 Location: Montreal, QC More info | Nov 15, 2010 19:59 | #2 You have a 24L and 85L and are wondering how to get sharp images.
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hah I guess I was looking for tips or ideas how to get the best sharp eyes. Do people go to manual focus to do this? I usually use manual focus points right on the eye, but I don't really know any other way. Eos M, 22mm
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bohdank Cream of the Crop 14,060 posts Likes: 6 Joined Jan 2008 Location: Montreal, Canada More info | Nov 15, 2010 20:21 | #4 Don't focus and recompose if you can help it. AF works perfectly fine 135L, 85/1.8 Bohdan - I may be, and probably am, completely wrong.
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Nov 15, 2010 20:31 | #5 Here's a sample of my doggeh. It's my first time shooting a portrait for a friend of mine so I'm just worried Eos M, 22mm
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bohdank Cream of the Crop 14,060 posts Likes: 6 Joined Jan 2008 Location: Montreal, Canada More info | Nov 15, 2010 20:32 | #6 Image not showing. Bad link, probably. Bohdan - I may be, and probably am, completely wrong.
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LiberationFrequency Goldmember 1,334 posts Joined Jun 2010 Location: Montreal, QC More info | Nov 15, 2010 20:40 | #7 Focus and snap the shutter in one pull. If they are sitting still, Im sure you won't have a problem making it sharp enough.
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bohdank Cream of the Crop 14,060 posts Likes: 6 Joined Jan 2008 Location: Montreal, Canada More info | Nov 15, 2010 20:42 | #8 I see the dogee now. Bohdan - I may be, and probably am, completely wrong.
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howzitboy Goldmember 2,948 posts Joined May 2007 Location: Hawaii More info | Nov 16, 2010 13:53 | #9 to get eyes sharp just make sure your shutter speed is fast enough to freeze the action. http://onehourwedding.blogspot.com/
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108vc Member 119 posts Joined Jun 2010 Location: Philadelphia More info | Nov 18, 2010 09:49 | #10 bohdank wrote in post #11291091 Don't focus and recompose if you can help it. AF works perfectly fine 135L, 85/1.8 The most important tip is, for your subject not to move and for you not to move, at all, between hitting focus and tripping the shutter. Be vewy vewy still ![]() aren't you a bit limited in composition with Canon's lack of focus points if you don't "Focus and Recompose"? www.vcferry.me
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bohdank Cream of the Crop 14,060 posts Likes: 6 Joined Jan 2008 Location: Montreal, Canada More info | Nov 18, 2010 10:14 | #11 It's one thing to use the center FP and move the framing to push the subject completely to one side and using an outer point and slightly recomposing. The latter, I tend to frame loosely anyway so it can accomodate different cropping later on, so I rarely recompose or, if I do, it is very minor. Bohdan - I may be, and probably am, completely wrong.
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namasste Cream of the Crop 6,911 posts Likes: 140 Joined Jul 2007 Location: NE Ohio More info | Nov 18, 2010 14:49 | #12 also don't forget your focal plane. with shallow DOF, it won't take much of a head tilt to get at least one soft eye and that can ruin an image. if your subject is not aligned straight on (which is common since straight on can be a bit meh for portrait shots at times), you'll need to pick a spot in between to focus on. I often choose the bridge of the nose since its usually within the front end of my DOF even wide open. this way, no matter the angle (unless its a hot from the side when you won't see one eye anyway) you'll have both eyes in focus. I'm not a real portrait shooter but this seems to work for me. here's a couple of my son using this technique so you can somewhat see what I mean (and I still didn't quite get it right in the first) Scott Evans Photography
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