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Thread started 16 Nov 2010 (Tuesday) 09:24
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Issue with u2311H (it's a good problem)

 
ni$mo350
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Nov 16, 2010 09:24 |  #1

So I upgraded to my first IPS screen a Dell U2311H thanks to everyone here. I love everything about it except that now that I'm editing pictures on a somewhat calibrated screen, they seem too bright to everyone else! Do most of you purposely edit the picture darker for web and then brighten it for printing?

I honestly couldn't be happier with my purchase and a little shout out to burrito for hooking me up with a killer monitor and a killer deal. The Spyder3 Pro will be a present from the g/f for Christmas so I'm holding off for now.


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ecub
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Nov 16, 2010 11:12 |  #2

I recently purchased my monitor. I haven't had any complaints of my photos looking too bright. Maybe post a sample pic or 2?


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ni$mo350
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Nov 16, 2010 11:53 |  #3

ecub wrote in post #11294444 (external link)
I recently purchased my monitor. I haven't had any complaints of my photos looking too bright. Maybe post a sample pic or 2?

Sorry Ed, I don't think i explained it correctly. It looks fine on my screen but when I save it to my blog or flickr for clients to see, I assume they don't have an IPS monitor so they come out bright. From what I understand, non IPS monitors come from the factory overly bright and most people don't adjust them down so when they see my final image, it seems bright to them on their screen but in reality it's perfect and ready to print.

Should I be making the final image I save for the web darker and just adjust it brighter when I'm ready to print? I'm looking at a photo I did last night and it looks perfect on my U2311H but I'm at work on an HP L1908wm and it's way too bright, even after I brought the brightness down to 40%. Here's the image:

IMAGE: http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss222/goddardca/IMG_1211.jpg

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ChasP505
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Nov 16, 2010 11:53 as a reply to  @ ecub's post |  #4

Until you get a proper calibration tool, lower your brightness down to 10%. Leave all the other monitor settings at factory defaults. On a new U2311h, this should result in an approximate luminance value of about 140cd/m2. Edit your photos based on this.

And, get your lighting conditions under control. Consistency is far more important than brightness when it comes to ambient lighting in your workspace.

Finally, why in the world would you get a Spyder2 Pro? This model has been discontinued for years! Your best choice in an affordable calibration kit is the X-Rite EyeOne Display2.


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ni$mo350
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Nov 16, 2010 12:02 |  #5

Sorry that was a typo, supposed to be the spyder3 pro. I heard good things about it from a few people but I will look into the one you suggested, thanks. I'll also try it out at 10% brightness. When it's fully calibrated, will it still be bright on other non calibrated non IPS screens? A majority of the clients I work with don't have a high end monitor and I don't want them to think my edits are too bright when they're perfect for print. Thanks for the help!


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ChasP505
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Nov 16, 2010 12:07 |  #6

ni$mo350 wrote in post #11294645 (external link)
...From what I understand, non IPS monitors come from the factory overly bright and most people don't adjust them down so when they see my final image, it seems bright to them on their screen but in reality it's perfect and ready to print.

All LCD monitors come out of the box too bright and all need calibration.

Should I be making the final image I save for the web darker and just adjust it brighter when I'm ready to print?

You should look into softproofing before printing. No need to make two versions of the image. You have no control over what monitors the masses are using to view images on the web. But with a properly calibrated, color accurate monitor, you can have some assurance that what you see is close to what others with calibrated monitors see.

40% Brightness is still far too bright. That would probably result in a luminance of about 180cd/m2.


Chas P
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ChasP505
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Nov 16, 2010 12:11 |  #7

ni$mo350 wrote in post #11294697 (external link)
A majority of the clients I work with don't have a high end monitor and I don't want them to think my edits are too bright when they're perfect for print.

That's why you should show them your proofs on YOUR monitor, under softproofing conditions. They should not see the images before you turn on softproofing. This will give them the most realistic idea of how their images will look when printed.

(But what do I know? I'm not even a photographer!)


Chas P
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ni$mo350
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Nov 16, 2010 12:15 |  #8

Thanks again, If I go any lower on my work monitor, I won't be able to read the print haha. It seems like 40% is pretty dark as it is. Oh well! Like you said, at least I'll know the print is coming out right. IIRC I set mine to what others posted they had their U2311H set to which was 35/75 which seemed right to me. I might just have to ask for my christmas present early :)


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ChasP505
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Nov 16, 2010 12:59 |  #9

ni$mo350 wrote in post #11294765 (external link)
Thanks again, If I go any lower on my work monitor, I won't be able to read the print haha. It seems like 40% is pretty dark as it is.

I was talking specifically about the U2311h. And darkness is not the same as luminance. Luminance is the intensity of light emitted from your display. On a good monitor, you can lower the luminance pretty far and still have good contrast, color, and shadow detail.

...I set mine to what others posted they had their U2311H set to which was 35/75 which seemed right to me.

I think I'd still start a little lower... maybe 25-30% Brightness. Experiment until you get a good match. There's really no "correct" value, only the one that works for you.


Chas P
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ni$mo350
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Nov 16, 2010 13:15 |  #10

ChasP505 wrote in post #11295004 (external link)
I was talking specifically about the U2311h. And darkness is not the same as luminance. Luminance is the intensity of light emitted from your display. On a good monitor, you can lower the luminance pretty far and still have good contrast, color, and shadow detail.


I think I'd still start a little lower... maybe 25-30% Brightness. Experiment until you get a good match. There's really no "correct" value, only the one that works for you.

Alright, I'll give that a try and see how that works.


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ChasP505
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Nov 16, 2010 14:05 |  #11

ni$mo350 wrote in post #11295080 (external link)
Alright, I'll give that a try and see how that works.

BTW... Regarding your photo... It looks fine as far as brightness goes. A bit low in contrast and saturation, and has a bit of a color cast (I'm assuming that's the look you were going for).


Chas P
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ni$mo350
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Nov 16, 2010 14:10 |  #12

Yea I was trying to get the muted color effect but so far it's a no go. Chris Crisman's portfolio has been a bit of a hot topic lately and I'm trying to duplicate it and someone suggested that I try lowering the contrast to give it a more flat look instead of making the subject pop. I'm still working on it though haha. Thanks for the heads up as I thought it looked correct as far as brightness.


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Nov 16, 2010 14:13 |  #13

Chas, You've been always awesome. Thanks for your help in every way! I am getting this monitor in a couple of days as well and this is good read for me.
Congrats on the new toy Ni$mo!


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ni$mo350
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Nov 16, 2010 14:55 |  #14

Thanks, it's a huge upgrade and am surprised so many people choose TN monitors over IPS especially when they're only a little bit more and sometimes the same price! Ejoy yours too. I got off the phone with my g/f on lunch and she agreed that I could get my present a little early so I will be placing my order for that x-rite eyeone this weekend :)


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Issue with u2311H (it's a good problem)
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