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Thread started 17 Nov 2010 (Wednesday) 23:26
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Circular Polarizer Filter Q?

 
Dr. ­ Gonzo
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Nov 17, 2010 23:26 |  #1

Im looking to buy a CPL and I am a little confused by all the different options. I plan to stay with Hoya or B & W. But I see multiple different types of Circular Polarizer Filters amungst these brands.

Im shooting with a 7d and a 17-40L. From what Ive heard Im ok to get one with this lens and it isnt a problem because its a crop sensor.
True?

Also, Im shooting cars 90% of the time. Mostly static, and some rolling/panning.

What CPL filter is the right one for me?

What are the differences?

Heres a link to the BH site that has a ton of the different ones that are 77mm CPL, b & w, and hoya. Any thoughts?

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …233+4293918168+​4294954537 (external link)

Thanks!


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Bob_A
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Nov 17, 2010 23:47 |  #2

If you are shooting with an ultra-wide you should get a "slim" version. The problem with these is that they don't have front threads for your lens cap to grip onto, so don't use slim unless you have to.

I get no vignetting with a standard CPL on a Canon 24-70 (on crop) and Nikon 24-70 (on full frame). Hopefully someone here can let you know if the 17-40 on crop requires a slim version.

Other than that get a multicoated CPL. The one I use is a 77mm B+W F-Pro MRC, which on the B&H site goes for $160.50. The Hoya Pro-1 Digital Multi-Coated and the Hoya Circular Polarizer (HMC) would be the ones I'd consider from that brand.


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Wilt
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Nov 18, 2010 00:33 |  #3

17mm lens on APS-C is nowhere near 'ultra wide angle'...it is a very modest 74 degree diagonal Angle of View (same as 28mm on FF). Absolutely no need for a 'slim' version filter with that lens FL!

There are multiple levels of filters, based primarily upon the coatings. Avoid single-coated at all costs! At the very minimum, get a multicoated filter such as Hoya HMC or Hoya Pro Digital. At the best, get a super multicoated filter such as Hoya SHMC or Hoya HD or B+W MRC. The highest quality CPL is the B+W Kaesemann CPL, but this can be considered by many to be expensive 'overkill' with its edges which are specially sealed to prevent fungus in humid tropical climates.


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argyle
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Nov 18, 2010 06:52 as a reply to  @ Wilt's post |  #4

Another nod for a B+W MRC F-Pro...either the Kaesemann or non-K version. I'd stay away from Hoya...too many reports of their CPLs coming apart unexpectedly, and their coatings are very difficult to clean. And like Wilt says, you do not need a slim CPL with that combination.


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windpig
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Nov 18, 2010 07:15 |  #5

B+W MRC Kaesemann here. I went slim for my 10-22 when I had it. It comes with a push on lens cover and the lens is a little more difficult to handle, but no big deal. You won't need a slim for what you say you're going to us it on. B+W Kaz are awesome filters.


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sapearl
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Nov 18, 2010 07:33 |  #6

A few years back I got the Hoya Pro-F I believe it was (77mm thread) which was a $200 CPL - they had a nice sale going so the damage wasn't too horrible. I use mine on FF though, but on the 17-40 and get no vignetting at all. I did NOT get the slim version as I wanted to retain the outer threads for the lens cap. - Stu


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plasticmotif
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Nov 18, 2010 08:42 |  #7

Marumi makes some great filters.


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MCAsan
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Nov 18, 2010 08:48 as a reply to  @ plasticmotif's post |  #8

had Hoya and tried B+W MRC Kaesemann. Will only purchase B+W MRC Kaesemann from now on. They are not inexpensive....but neither are lens and cameras. They are an excellent value (quality for cost).




  
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Shooter9
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Nov 19, 2010 16:04 |  #9

I also need a CPL for my 10-22 lens on a 7D. Do I need to go slim? thanks.




  
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V-Wiz
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Nov 19, 2010 16:12 |  #10

Trust me your going to want the BW KSM CPL. Get it from where everyone else gets them from. They ship from HK.


Gripped 5D Mark II l 24-105 F/4 L l 70-200 F/4 L l Tokina 12-24 F4 l 50mm 1.8 l Sigma 600 Mirror l B+W KSM CPL l B+W 6stop ND filter l Hitech 0.6 GND l YN-468 Flash l Kenko Pro 300 1.4 TC l Induro Tripod, Vanguard 250 Ballhead.

  
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Dr. ­ Gonzo
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Nov 19, 2010 17:36 |  #11

Thanks for all the quick replies, I actually got to play with both the B + W K MRC and the Hoya Pro 1 Multi. And took some pictures with both and looked at them, and found them to be identical. IQ and the effects of the two seemed to be identical and the shop I was at actually recommended the Hoya, which was convincing because it is much cheaper than the BW.

I feel like the B+W is definitely great but for instance the bronze ring is trying to solve a problem that really wasnt there in the first place. (for the most part).

So for now I have the Hoya Pro1 and I am more than satisfied with the results so far and the quality seems great.

Thanks for all the personal accounts, it really helps when buying.


Canon 7d
17-40mm f/4 L
50mm f/ 1.4
70-200 2.8 L
www.SpcImaging.com (external link)

  
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Wilt
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Nov 19, 2010 18:14 |  #12

Dr. Gonzo wrote in post #11314557 (external link)
I feel like the B+W is definitely great but for instance the bronze ring is trying to solve a problem that really wasnt there in the first place. (for the most part).

FYI, aluminum tends to bind to aluminum, whereas dissimilar metals do not bind like that. Lens barrels used to be made from aluminum, and aluminum filters do bind themselves to the lenses...I have some Olympus lenses and have aluminum frame UV filters on them, which were deliberately NOT screwed down tightly, yet the filters are now bound quite well to the lenses.


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Russ61
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Nov 19, 2010 18:33 |  #13

While I allow for the long held claim that aluminum filters will jam, I've only had one occasion of them actually doing that in 35+ years and it was on a cheap (ie probably poorly machined) filter 30+ years ago. I eventually separated them by chilling the lens/filter to "break" apart the jam. I use filters ALL of the time, frequently changing from UV to CPL and thus have had ample opportunities to experience the problem again. I'm inclined to believe the brass vs aluminum as much ado about nothing! Knock on wood!!!




  
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r.morales
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Nov 19, 2010 19:14 |  #14

1 - hoya's are very hard to clean
2 - hoya does not make a ksm version [B+W MRC Kaesemann is very close to water proof .]
3 - some hoyas have a green cast , or yellow cast [heard of red but have not seen
4 - I have a hoya slim - don't need slim [green cast]
5 - You can get brass threads - probably been at least 20 years since I had a filter seize up on me , but I still carry filter wrenches - for such a cheap item - you would be surprised how few people own - much less carry them . [They are great for removing the rear lens cap in hot or cold areas]
6 - I have B+W MRC Kaesemann's for all my lenses and carry at least 2 of each [CPL , UV , ND's] for the lenses I have with me . NO SLIMs
I carry 2 because a filter is easier to clean than a lens .
I will not argue about which is better - Hoya or B+W - but I will tell you B+W is easier to clean . Last year I got a Hoya 72mm cpl for Xmas , I took it back to camera store - 42 dollars later , I had a B+W MRC Kaesemann 72 mm .


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ShadowCaver
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Dec 05, 2010 15:12 |  #15

plasticmotif wrote in post #11306027 (external link)
Marumi makes some great filters.

From some reports, there is some concern regarding their WaterProofCoat (WPC) CPL filters (issues with contrast, flaring, and scattering. However, the Marumi Super DHG C-PL gets high marks, being very highly rated [first place] in some tests. For ~1/2 the cost of B&W K CPL filters, looks quite attractive. Unfortunately, there are not that many reviews about the Marumi filters.

So,,, would be curious / good to hear of other PotN members what versions of the Marumi filters they have, and their experiences.


50D | 70-200 f4 L IS | 100 f2.8 L IS | Tokina 11-16 AT-X Pro | 17-55 | B&W 67mm CPL
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Circular Polarizer Filter Q?
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