Infrared (IR) Image gallery

These were taken with a 7artisans lens and a cheap 720nm filter on a full spectrum X-Pro2... can't remember which lens, I think the 55/1.4

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2kup​7ef

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2kup​2Jo

If you look in this thread, in the past I have had a Canon M6 590nm camera and really like it. Now that I shoot Fuji, when I saw an X-T20 590nm come up for sale I decided to give it a go. My one concern is finding a decently wide lens that doesn't give hotspot. Is the 55mm Artisan lens the only one you have tried or have you tried any others?

720nm filter, nightshot mode

HaroldC3 wrote in post #19184651
If you look in this thread, in the past I have had a Canon M6 590nm camera and really like it. Now that I shoot Fuji, when I saw an X-T20 590nm come up for sale I decided to give it a go. My one concern is finding a decently wide lens that doesn't give hotspot. Is the 55mm Artisan lens the only one you have tried or have you tried any others?

No, I've used quite a few lenses on it. A lot of the Fuji glass definitely has hot spots, some even when wide open. For wide lenses, the Samyang 12mm works well. I haven't really noticed any hot spots until after f11. My Samyang 21mm is also good. My XF 18-55, 18/2 and 16-80 all hot spot pretty badly even after just one stop down. The best XF lens I have for IR is my XF 35/1.4, no hotspots, but it is pretty soft and has a lot of CA wide open with IR.

Here's a shot from the 12mm at around f11 if I remember right... the softness is due to the flimsy gorilla pod mounted to the log in the right of the frame... over the raging river

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2jLS​66S

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2jDq​GEW

EverydayGetaway wrote in post #19184703
No, I've used quite a few lenses on it. A lot of the Fuji glass definitely has hot spots, some even when wide open. For wide lenses, the Samyang 12mm works well. I haven't really noticed any hot spots until after f11. My Samyang 21mm is also good. My XF 18-55, 18/2 and 16-80 all hot spot pretty badly even after just one stop down. The best XF lens I have for IR is my XF 35/1.4, no hotspots, but it is pretty soft and has a lot of CA wide open with IR.

Thanks for the info. If that's the case I might as well get the 14mm f2.8. I have heard that's the Fuji wide-angle lens to have for IR.

HaroldC3 wrote in post #19184849
Thanks for the info. If that's the case I might as well get the 14mm f2.8. I have heard that's the Fuji wide-angle lens to have for IR.

Interesting, I hadn't heard of that one yet. The XF 55-200 and 35/1.4 work really well. Unfortunately my other XF lenses don't work great for IR.

One more from the trees with the fog rolling in, pretty sure this was still at 720nm but I can't remember for sure... I have a bad habit of only editing shots every few months from some cameras

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2kup​sQf

InPhoto wrote in post #19184693
720nm filter, nightshot mode

Hosted photo: posted by InPhoto in
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forum: Still Life, B/W & Experimental

Wow! <golf clap>

Alright, I took my Fuji X-T20 (590nm) on its maiden voyage today. The sun only stuck around for about 30 minutes so I didn't get many images but I like what I am seeing so far. Since I always convert my 590nm to B&W the thing I do (that I bet many don't) is just swap the red channel and green channel. Once that's done I have a B&W image and I can work from there. You may ask why I use 590nm rather than 720 or 830 if I'm just doing B&W and the answer is I seem to like the flexibility more. If I want I can control the brightness/darkness of the yellow/blue of the image before I convert to B&W. I don't know but I seem to like what I am seeing. And my 16-80mm seems to work well (I can't see a hotspot yet) as does my 55-200mm. I have a 15-45mm to try and see how that works.

HaroldC3 wrote in post #19188961
Alright, I took my Fuji X-T20 (590nm) on its maiden voyage today. The sun only stuck around for about 30 minutes so I didn't get many images but I like what I am seeing so far. Since I always convert my 590nm to B&W the thing I do (that I bet many don't) is just swap the red channel and green channel. Once that's done I have a B&W image and I can work from there. You may ask why I use 590nm rather than 720 or 830 if I'm just doing B&W and the answer is I seem to like the flexibility more. If I want I can control the brightness/darkness of the yellow/blue of the image before I convert to B&W. I don't know but I seem to like what I am seeing. And my 16-80mm seems to work well (I can't see a hotspot yet) as does my 55-200mm. I have a 15-45mm to try and see how that works.

Hosted photo: posted by HaroldC3 in
./showthread.php?p=191​88961&i=i82166211
forum: Still Life, B/W & Experimental

Hosted photo: posted by HaroldC3 in
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forum: Still Life, B/W & Experimental

Interesting finding with your 16-80. I'll have to give mine a shot again... last time I tried it with the 590 and it definitely had a hot spot... maybe it was just a flare that I mistook for a hot spot.

I'll have to try your channel swap method for B&W sometime. I usually just swap on the 950nm filter when I want to do B&W because I like the slight temperature tones you get with it and it just always seems to look right to me pretty much SOOC. The loss of light sucks though sometimes.

950nm with a Rokinon 85/1.4.

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2kxr​RRC

Took some more images yesterday during a day trip. I need to figure out how to not get blotchy skies when converting to B&W.

1. Mt Adams in Klickitat County
2. Old farmhouse, Goodnoe, Klickitat County

I shoot quite a bit of IR here a couple landscapes to get going:

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/25BA​v9s

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2kjh​Pe6

HaroldC3 wrote in post #19191532
Took some more images yesterday during a day trip. I need to figure out how to not get blotchy skies when converting to B&W.

1. Mt Adams in Klickitat County
2. Old farmhouse, Goodnoe, Klickitat County

Hosted photo: posted by HaroldC3 in
./showthread.php?p=191​91532&i=i256488703
forum: Still Life, B/W & Experimental

Hosted photo: posted by HaroldC3 in
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forum: Still Life, B/W & Experimental

Love these!

Like how the vegetation stands out in the first picture.

Thanks!
IIRC it was shot through a 25A filter (590nm) and then the hue adjusted rather than messing with a channel swap.