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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 22 Nov 2010 (Monday) 21:13
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Second Curtain Sync

 
css7493
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Nov 22, 2010 21:13 |  #1

I am sure there will be many exceptions to the rule that chime in here, but . . .

I cannot believe I never knew about curtain sync, the second I randomly stumbled on it here and read about it it clicked instantly, I just can't believe I never knew it. A possible drawback to having no formal training I suppose. I can say one thing, it is going to do wonders for certain aspects of my work!


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Quad
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Nov 22, 2010 21:26 |  #2

Also a drawback to not reading the manual. You never know what wonders hide in the instruction booklet.




  
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1337.
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Nov 22, 2010 21:56 |  #3

once you go second, you never go back. So much better imo


--Jamie
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bobbyz
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Nov 22, 2010 22:27 |  #4

1337. wrote in post #11330330 (external link)
once you go second, you never go back. So much better imo

???

For vast majority of flash application you rarely need 2nd curtain.


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FlyingPhotog
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Nov 22, 2010 22:37 |  #5

Mine are permanently on Second Curtain sync with HSS enabled as well...


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bobbyz
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Nov 22, 2010 22:43 |  #6

FlyingPhotog wrote in post #11330573 (external link)
Mine are permanently on Second Curtain sync with HSS enabled as well...

Again reason?


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Sony A7rIV, , Tamron 28-200mm, Sigma 40mm f1.4 Art FE, Sony 85mm f1.8 FE, Sigma 105mm f1.4 Art FE
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FlyingPhotog
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Nov 22, 2010 22:45 |  #7

bobbyz wrote in post #11330622 (external link)
Again reason?

If it's dark enough that I need flash, chances are I'll want any motion or streaks behind the subject and if I'm using flash for daylight fill, I'll want it in HSS anyways so that's where I leave things set.


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1337.
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Nov 22, 2010 22:58 |  #8

FlyingPhotog wrote in post #11330632 (external link)
If it's dark enough that I need flash, chances are I'll want any motion or streaks behind the subject and if I'm using flash for daylight fill, I'll want it in HSS anyways so that's where I leave things set.

my reasoning is the same, +1


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PacAce
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Nov 23, 2010 10:03 |  #9

FlyingPhotog wrote in post #11330632 (external link)
If it's dark enough that I need flash, chances are I'll want any motion or streaks behind the subject and if I'm using flash for daylight fill, I'll want it in HSS anyways so that's where I leave things set.

Just don't be surprised when you take a flash picture at 1/60 and notice that the blur is not where you were expecting it to be for 2nd curtain sync. That's because 2nd curtain sync doesn't really kick in until 1/40 or slower (depends on camera model). :)


...Leo

  
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TopHatMoments
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Nov 23, 2010 10:41 |  #10

It is a good tool for mood lighting, allowing ambient light to set the stage, just before the flash kisses it.


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ootsk
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Nov 23, 2010 10:59 |  #11

TopHatMoments wrote in post #11333042 (external link)
It is a good tool for mood lighting, allowing ambient light to set the stage, just before the flash kisses it.

How would the end result be any different if the flash went off first, then the ambient set the mood? I understand car headlights, etc. But for mood lighting, what's the net difference?




  
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TopHatMoments
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Nov 23, 2010 11:24 |  #12

Second curtain, allows the ambient to fill the scene. Then enough flash to stop movement, if there is any and add highlight to the shadows.
It does wonders for Christmas tree setting, fireside settings.
Second curtain is one of those things you can tech to death but, until you try it and see.

Depending on ambient light and flash power, you can set the ratios to overpower the surroundings, or just add a kick of fill and stop motion for a crisp


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Tobi.
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Nov 23, 2010 11:44 |  #13

TopHatMoments wrote in post #11333268 (external link)
Second curtain, allows the ambient to fill the scene.

First curtain can do that too, you know. Just select a longer shutter speed. With the same aperture, shutter time, ISO sensitivity etc., the only difference between first and second curtain is the direction the light streaks run.

Tobi




  
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TopHatMoments
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Nov 23, 2010 12:41 |  #14

And if people turn out fuzzy or not. I agree it can work with first. I do it that way also if the only light I want to control is my own.

As stated above it only comes into play at a certain shutter speed and slower.

It's kind of like automatic transmission. You can put it in low and shift up when you want or just put it in drive or OD and let it work itself out when it is needed.


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PacAce
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Nov 23, 2010 13:13 |  #15

TopHatMoments wrote in post #11333736 (external link)
And if people turn out fuzzy or not. I agree it can work with first. I do it that way also if the only light I want to control is my own.

As stated above it only comes into play at a certain shutter speed and slower.

It's kind of like automatic transmission. You can put it in low and shift up when you want or just put it in drive or OD and let it work itself out when it is needed.

If there is nothing in the motion that indicated any form of direction (forward or backward), then it doesn't really matter whether the shot is taken with 1st curtain sync or 2nd curtain sync. The effect on the resulting image will be similar (not the same, of course, but similar). I would even go as far as to bet that you would most probably not be able to identify which of the two images were taken with 1st curtain sync and which with 2nd curtain sync.


...Leo

  
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Second Curtain Sync
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